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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Nov 27, 2017
Contact Ben Mottinger

Point Rank: # 135
Total Points: 3,955

175 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Ben Mottinger been climbing?










Contributions


All 882 | Routes 156 | Areas 65 | Approach Trails | Photos 284 | Page Improvements | Comments 121 | Posts | Stars 218 | Ratings 38
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Elephant Buttresses > Third Buttress > Standard Route (5.7+)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I did this in Oct. of 99 with my Italian friend Matteo, and the rock was so cold I couldn't feel my fingers and hands--good thing I let him lead it. ;-) The crux was pretty tricky for a 5.7, just as the final Cozyhang/Owl roof is.

This is number 1 in the picture.


Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > The Book > J-Crack Slab Area > Thindependence (5.10c)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Did this today 5-6-01 with Charles after a morning of climbing in Boulder Canyon. I wanted to mention that like Chucky said, avoiding the Pear Buttress flake is a good choice. You can start the route by 4th classing up a little chimney to the left of the flake. Have your belayer perch on the top of this big block with his/her feet pressed against the slab. Comfy little spot. The leader can continue around the left and up an easy slab to the start of the route.

A fun TR (or no pro) variation to ... more >>


Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > The Book > J-Crack Slab Area > Stretch Marks (5.11a)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Charles and I were meaning to climb this today, but neither of us were feeling quite up to committing past the first section. We did boulder up past the crux though and got a good RP below the finger crack. I think it would have definitely protected a fall moving to the finger jam where the TCU could be placed.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > First Flatiron > Fandango Variation (5.6)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: There is another variation that is similar, but I give it 2.5 stars, 5.6. For the second pitch, head past a small tree on the edge of a dropoff to the dihedral below. Find an easy way down to this dihedral and follow it until you see a small roof. Tackle the roof, and rejoin Fandango. This variation is fun because of the big dihedral and little roof.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > City of Boulder > CU Campus > Engineering Center > Number Cruncher (V2)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: We haven't seen anyone do this sick traverse so really we should have a ? grade for it. I agree, its probably way harder than V5.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... > Rewritten (5.7)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Did this again on 5-9-01 and guess who was climbing one pitch ahead of us? The one and only George Hurley himself! What an honor to climb with the FA on a classic route.

I also forgot how much I love the 4th pitch. It doesn't get much better than that.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The Wind Tower > Wind Tower - SW Face > Calypso (5.6)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Myke and I did the 8 variation today (12/15) in the snow--quite fun actually. I wanted to mention that there are three starts to this climb. 1: 5.5: the crack on the far right, then traverse left to the dihedral. 2. 5.8: straight up the middle to the dihedral. 3. 5.6: next to the boulder, then traverse left to the dihedral. Also, if you do the roof variation, you can rap 75 from the Tagger anchors.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Peanuts Walls > Lower Peanuts > Cornered, straight up varia... (5.9)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Nice climb. Another way of descending: from the sloping ledge at the top, boulder up to the next ledge, then walk off toward the gully between Upper and Lower Peanuts.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Peanuts Walls > Lower Peanuts > West Crack (aka Star Wars) (5.8)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This is an atypical crack pitch for Eldo. A parallel hand crack with nothing for the feet except to jam the crack. This is a burly and sustained 40ft. of 5.8 jamming. A 2.5 Friend is the perfect size for this crack.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The West Ridge > West Ridge - part C - Pony ... > Ignominity (5.9)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: On pitch 3 there is a variation that heads right through a thin crack (10b). There is an old 0.25in. bolt on the face above.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Nip and Tuck > Antagonism (5.12a/b)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The bottom of the route has a maximum of about 10d/11a but the crux is pulling over the little roof at the last bolt. Tricky footwork and crimpy holds.


Location: Colorado > Denver South > Castlewood Canyon SP > Neanderthal Wall > The Way Out (5.7+)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This route has only a few difficult moves, but they are closer to solid 5.8 and the crux lieback is committing. If I remember correctly, a #4 Camalot can protect the flake at the crux better than a smaller piece down low.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Cob Rock > Huston Crack (5.9)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: A #4 Camalot or equivalent is almost mandatory unless you run it out through the offwidth section. If you have two, you could really sew it up.


Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > High Wire Crag > Deuces Wild (5.10a)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Just an update on the fixed pins on the roof. There is now only one angle in the roof, which is really not necessary--a yellow alien fits just above. The other pin is lower in the dihedral before the roof and the eyes are smashed halfway closed anyway.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > Central > Stonehenge > Thought Control (5.9+)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Just to add a bit to the story of Steve. To this day, we can'treally figure out HOW he broke his ankle. He took what appeared to be a clean 12ft. fall but must have caught his foot on a small edge.

The result was a completely shattered ankle which required 13 screws and two plates in surgery that night. Now "Frankenfoot" is getting back into climbing, but a freak accident like that really makes you second guess yourself when you have to get back on the sharp end.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two > Touch 'N' Go (5.9-)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: An awesome route with a perfect crack for most of this long route. The grade is a little sandbagged IMO.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Blob Rock Area > Blob Rock > ... > P1 of Astrophysics (aka Bol... (5.10a)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: To the "overbolted" comment, I mean that most of the route can be protected with stoppers and cams. There are only a few sections where placing gear would be difficult/runout. This applies to Simmer as well.


Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > The Book > J-Crack Slab Area > The Cave Exit (5.7+)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Just to reiterate what Charles said--it really looks like 5.10ish from below, but once you actually start climbing it, you'll see the good holds.


Location: Colorado > Golden > North Table Mountain/Golden... > Brown Cloud Rocks > Pee on Dee (5.8)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The direct start is about a V2 problem. It involves liebacking the sloping or flared crack then highstepping to gain the thin, slopey rail.


Location: Colorado > Golden > North Table Mountain/Golden... > Brown Cloud Rocks > Deck Chairs on the Titanic (5.10a)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: All these popular routes at Table seem to be getting slightly harder due to the holds being quite polished and greasy. The whole climb (with or w/out the direct start) seems more like 10a now.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > The Dome > Cozyhang (5.7+)
By: Ben Mottinger When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Did the 10a variation today with Charles--instead of exiting through the normal V-slot, take a hand crack angling right, just 15ft from the belay then continue to the summit via another nice crack.


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