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Member Since: Mar 19, 2009
Last Visit: 4 days ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 1420 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 18 | Page Improvements | Comments 82 | Posts 901 | Stars 222 | Ratings 194
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Green Spur (5.9+)
By: mountainhick When: May 26, 2017

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Comments: Obscure variation:

After pitch 3 eases, instead of going for Rebuffat's Arete, run up and belay at the first BIG tree smack dab in the middle of the gully. Traverse from the tree directly left onto the left wall of the gully, and follow a crack system upward, navigating past a bush in the crack then over a ledge or two and some blocky terrain on up over the top. Maybe 5.9.

Not as classic as the arete but worthwhile to me.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : The Scrutinizer : Mr. Pmosh (5.10a)
By: mountainhick When: Feb 10, 2017

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Comments: Nice change of pace for the grade at Potrero, juggy steep crux unlike most of the less than vertical balancy face climbing most of the 5.10a's offer.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : The Scrutinizer : Bubba Louie (5.10b)
By: mountainhick When: Feb 10, 2017

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Comments: Fun, worth doing. Take your skinny rope, it's a long pitch if linked. Something like 19 bolts.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : The Scrutinizer : Gringo Disco (5.11a/b)
By: mountainhick When: Feb 10, 2017

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Comments: Did it today... agreed, this route's hardware could use an update, especially the wonky anchors. But, very fun route with lots of thoughtful sequences interspersed between quite good stances. Clipping the last bolt was the crux for me. I'd sure like a a lighter weight rope for these long pitches on the Scrutinizer!


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Wonder Wall : Mr. Hanky (5.8)
By: mountainhick When: Feb 5, 2017

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Comments: Warm up for the wall. Stay to the bolt line past the mid anchor for a bit harder grade.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Wonder Wall : Asombrame (5.10a)
By: mountainhick When: Feb 5, 2017

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Comments: Seems this route is GONE. Plaque is gone as well as any bolt line between Mr Hanky and Monkey bizniz


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Wonder Wall : Monkey Bizness (5.10a)
By: mountainhick When: Feb 5, 2017

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Comments: If confident with 5.10 cracks and reasonably spaced bolts, it is very enjoyable. A realy nice change of pace from much of the samey Potrero face climbing at the grade. I loved it!

Could pretty much be lead on gear as well.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Wonder Wall : Cooters on Scooters (5.10d)
By: mountainhick When: Feb 5, 2017

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Comments: Excellent, really fun.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Wonder Wall : Red Headed Step Child (5.10)
By: mountainhick When: Feb 5, 2017

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Comments: Yep. did it again today, super well bolted now, no longer PG13. OK climbing, seems slightly re-routed as well. Quite easy. A little stinger if you approach the anchor from the left, but easier from the right. Enjoyable!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Black Corridor : Upper Level : ... : Livin' on Borrowed Time (5.11c)
By: mountainhick When: Dec 16, 2016

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Comments: Led it yesterday, ditto John Wilder. Stays on ya at solid 5.11 for three of the four bolts.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Black Corridor : Upper Level : ... : Texas Tea (5.10a)
By: mountainhick When: Dec 16, 2016

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Comments: I led the direct start and also livin on borrowed time (5.11c) yesterday. Comparatively, the single hard move to the first bolt of Texas tea was pretty much the same difficulty as moves on livin on borrowed time, but just a single move rather than sustained at the 5.11 level.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Buttress (5.10a)
By: mountainhick When: Nov 5, 2016

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Comments: Direct start info:

Seems the info scattered in this thread is a bit conflicting/unclear.

In route description P1 above, it mentions the direct start as 5.9+. I don't think so. Levin calls it 5.10b. I tend to agree.

For the direct start: do not traverse left from the start of Hair City, rather drop down the hill a tier to start, and climb directly up to the bolt in the steep, vertical-to-almost-overhanging face. Once past this section, you join the regular route abov... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up (5.10c)
By: mountainhick When: Nov 1, 2016

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Comments: Doh! Sorry Andy, need glasses.

Anyway, the variation with P2+3 of handcracker makes it more continuous than 100' of 5.5.

Enjoy!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up (5.10c)
By: mountainhick When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: We did this route but stepped right after the 5.10c Mail Ridge variation pitch to do all the Handcracker pitches from P2 on up. Combined Handcracker P2+3, then 4+5 to the top. No crappy 5.5 chimney.

Also, Mail Ridge Variation P1 protected fine for me through the dihedral. If you're good on 5.10c, it shouldn't present any pro problems. I'd maybe call it PG.

Chick On The Side is still the cranky crux for me!


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Unnamed 5.11- just L of Las... (5.11-)
By: mountainhick When: Oct 21, 2016

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Comments: A bit grungy, water runs down this one in the rain and brings lots of fresh debris. The climbing is quite fun though, chimneying technique with fingers deep in the flare to easier chimneying and a funky pull around/over the protruding upper flake.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Tagger (5.10b/c)
By: mountainhick When: Oct 1, 2016

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Comments: Having led the first pitch many times, it protects quite well for me. I think the R rating comes more from the days when it originally went free without the plethora of small cans in use these days. You CAN find good nut placements and augmented with TCUs, etc, it is good pro, and stances are fine. Perhaps not great for the budding 5.9 leader as it is pretty sustained, but use your feet well, and it's not pumpy.

Led second pitch yesterday, hadn't been on ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Erickson's Finish (5.10a)
By: mountainhick When: Sep 23, 2016

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Comments: Short, fun crux. Did as a finish after Ignominity. Good link-up.


Location:
By: mountainhick When: Sep 16, 2016

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Comments: Thank you for the PU bar idea!


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Litlle Kitten (5.10b/c)
By: mountainhick When: Jul 30, 2016

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Comments: Friggin' great! Despite its shortness, lots of variety in a compact pitch. I was smiling after this one! Really fun!

The only drawback is it seems it never gets rinsed off. Absolutely covered in old chalk which makes it a bit greasy.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Recovery (5.10c)
By: mountainhick When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: Bolts on this are looking a little old like the photos on comments for Hot Stuff.

Might be replacement time.

Very fun climb!


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Reefer Madness (5.11a)
By: mountainhick When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: OS today. I have been cruising some other 5.11a-c CCC and Eldo in the last week, but this felt hard for 5.11a. Took me half a dozen attempts stepping back down to the ledge every time to get a foot sequence that worked, and it finally went. I suspect there are other ways to do the crux but wondering either if I missed a better sequence or if the supposed chipped footholds are no longer. Definitely a couple smears for my feet. Great puzzle!


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : The Last Battle (5.11)
By: mountainhick When: May 6, 2016

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Comments: I really enjoyed this route, has good variation, but the large flakey triangular block that the climber in the photo is clinging to looks pretty sketchy, sounds completely hollow and seems pretty close to detached. It also appears to have very little at it's cracked base holding it in place,

Use caution.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : The Conundrums : Pitch Black (5.10+)
By: mountainhick When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: I'd give it 4 starts except the route needs loose rock trundled, and rap anchors sorted. We took an extra rope for descent, but another party had real trouble with rope length and actually untied to down climb. Not a great option still 500'+ off the deck.

Otherwise, great multipitch. Second pitch is 5 stars!


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Virgin Canyon : ... : Selam (5.10a)
By: mountainhick When: Feb 15, 2016

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Comments: Great pitch. Relatively hard for EPC 5.10a rating

My 70m mammut infinity did NOT reach the ground. Belayer climbed up with knotted end in the belay device so i could lower to around the first bolt, then solo down climb from there.

Knot your rope!


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Virgin Canyon : ... : Silverfish (5.11b)
By: mountainhick When: Feb 15, 2016

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Comments: Seems this has been rebolted to the right, or a new line to the right has been installed. There's a clip of the first rusty angle iron bolt, then right up on a large ledge and the new bolt line. Felt hard relative to other similarly graded routes at EPC. (including harder than Mexico in flames) Maybe 5.11c?


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