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Rock Climbing Photo: Rump roast II, pistol whipped, Indian Creek  Photo...


Member Since: Mar 19, 2009
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
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Contributions


All 1287 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 24 | Page Improvements | Comments 72 | Posts 801 | Stars 207 | Ratings 180
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Buttress (5.10a)
By: mountainhick When: Nov 5, 2016

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Comments: Direct start info:

Seems the info scattered in this thread is a bit conflicting/unclear.

In route description P1 above, it mentions the direct start as 5.9+. I don't think so. Levin calls it 5.10b. I tend to agree.

For the direct start: do not traverse left from the start of Hair City, rather drop down the hill a tier to start, and climb directly up to the bolt in the steep, vertical-to-almost-overhanging face. Once past this section, you join the regular route abov... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up (5.10c)
By: mountainhick When: Nov 1, 2016

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Comments: Doh! Sorry Andy, need glasses.

Anyway, the variation with P2+3 of handcracker makes it more continuous than 100' of 5.5.

Enjoy!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up (5.10c)
By: mountainhick When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: We did this route but stepped right after the 5.10c Mail Ridge variation pitch to do all the Handcracker pitches from P2 on up. Combined Handcracker P2+3, then 4+5 to the top. No crappy 5.5 chimney.

Also, Mail Ridge Variation P1 protected fine for me through the dihedral. If you're good on 5.10c, it shouldn't present any pro problems. I'd maybe call it PG.

Chick On The Side is still the cranky crux for me!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Unnamed 5.11- just L of Las... (5.11-)
By: mountainhick When: Oct 21, 2016

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Comments: A bit grungy, water runs down this one in the rain and brings lots of fresh debris. The climbing is quite fun though, chimneying technique with fingers deep in the flare to easier chimneying and a funky pull around/over the protruding upper flake.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ruper (5.8+)
By: mountainhick When: Oct 11, 2016

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Comments: As of 10/10/16, if you want to climb Ruper for its own sake, go for it, but don't bother going for the #5 Camalot booty. It has been removed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Tagger (5.10b/c)
By: mountainhick When: Oct 1, 2016

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Comments: Having led the first pitch many times, it protects quite well for me. I think the R rating comes more from the days when it originally went free without the plethora of small cans in use these days. You CAN find good nut placements and augmented with TCUs, etc, it is good pro, and stances are fine. Perhaps not great for the budding 5.9 leader as it is pretty sustained, but use your feet well, and it's not pumpy.

Led second pitch yesterday, hadn't been on ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Erickson's Finish (5.10a)
By: mountainhick When: Sep 23, 2016

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Comments: Short, fun crux. Did as a finish after Ignominity. Good link-up.


Location:
By: mountainhick When: Sep 16, 2016

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Comments: Thank you for the PU bar idea!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Litlle Kitten (5.10b/c)
By: mountainhick When: Jul 30, 2016

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Comments: Friggin' great! Despite its shortness, lots of variety in a compact pitch. I was smiling after this one! Really fun!

The only drawback is it seems it never gets rinsed off. Absolutely covered in old chalk which makes it a bit greasy.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Recovery (5.10c)
By: mountainhick When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: Bolts on this are looking a little old like the photos on comments for Hot Stuff.

Might be replacement time.

Very fun climb!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Reefer Madness (5.11a)
By: mountainhick When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: OS today. I have been cruising some other 5.11a-c CCC and Eldo in the last week, but this felt hard for 5.11a. Took me half a dozen attempts stepping back down to the ledge every time to get a foot sequence that worked, and it finally went. I suspect there are other ways to do the crux but wondering either if I missed a better sequence or if the supposed chipped footholds are no longer. Definitely a couple smears for my feet. Great puzzle!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : The Last Battle (5.11)
By: mountainhick When: May 6, 2016

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Comments: I really enjoyed this route, has good variation, but the large flakey triangular block that the climber in the photo is clinging to looks pretty sketchy, sounds completely hollow and seems pretty close to detached. It also appears to have very little at it's cracked base holding it in place,

Use caution.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : The Conundrums : Pitch Black (5.10+)
By: mountainhick When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: I'd give it 4 starts except the route needs loose rock trundled, and rap anchors sorted. We took an extra rope for descent, but another party had real trouble with rope length and actually untied to down climb. Not a great option still 500'+ off the deck.

Otherwise, great multipitch. Second pitch is 5 stars!


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Virgin Canyon : ... : Selam (5.10a)
By: mountainhick When: Feb 15, 2016

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Comments: Great pitch. Relatively hard for EPC 5.10a rating

My 70m mammut infinity did NOT reach the ground. Belayer climbed up with knotted end in the belay device so i could lower to around the first bolt, then solo down climb from there.

Knot your rope!


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Virgin Canyon : ... : Silverfish (5.11b)
By: mountainhick When: Feb 15, 2016

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Comments: Seems this has been rebolted to the right, or a new line to the right has been installed. There's a clip of the first rusty angle iron bolt, then right up on a large ledge and the new bolt line. Felt hard relative to other similarly graded routes at EPC. (including harder than Mexico in flames) Maybe 5.11c?


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Club Mex Wall : Super Nova (5.11a)
By: mountainhick When: Feb 7, 2016

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Comments: Did both of the first pitches today (along with the rest of the climb), Gusada negra is good climbing, and quite sustained. I didn't find it "ugly", though not all nice and new and clean. Many holds are polished/slick which adds a bit more difficulty. I agree that it is the headier lead.

Also agree, I wouldn't repeat the whole route. The interesting climbing is in the variations of the first pitch.

Beware, if you climb to the top. there is a fair bit of loose rock. Easy to dislodge missles.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Las Estrellas (The Stars) : Mr. Fluffer's Wild Ride (5.9+)
By: mountainhick When: Feb 5, 2016

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Comments: Generally agree with 5.9+, but for potrero, could easily be called 5.10a.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Las Estrellas (The Stars) : Lickety Split (5.10d)
By: mountainhick When: Feb 5, 2016

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Comments: Hardest 5.10d I've been on at Potrero. Seemed as hard as two pumped chump.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Virgin Canyon : ... : Blind Faith (5.11a)
By: mountainhick When: Feb 3, 2016

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Comments: Great fun. I found the crux to be pretty continuous for 25-30'. Third pitch is fantastic, great airy position, and pretty continuous with a little stinger near the top. Just excellent!


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Mota Wall : Pins and Needles (5.10d)
By: mountainhick When: Feb 3, 2016

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Comments: It ain't over after pulling out of the alcove! Nice pitch.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Wonder Wall : Red Headed Step Child (5.10 PG13)
By: mountainhick When: Feb 3, 2016

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Comments: My most un-favorite route after climbing 4 days at El Potrero Chico. Run out to a joke of a junk old "ring bolt", somewhat suspicious bolt higher up, and some chossy breakable holds. Quality routes to either side. Not worth the trouble.


Location: General Climbing : What does your Woody look l... : Post : Photo
By: mountainhick When: Jan 21, 2016

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Comments: Thanks!

Actually just had a breakthrough, finally figured out the OW!


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Krimo Gold (5.10d)
By: mountainhick When: Jul 15, 2015

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Comments: Surprised this route has so few comments. Great route! My favorite of this trip to Squamish. Highly recommended if you are leading mid 5.10 solidly.

All pitches are good. Multiple 5.10 cruxes/sections and good variety. Top pitch is continuously steep but felt generally quite secure (to me) with lots of great hand jams and rests between creative jamming, stemming laybacking etc. Stellar pitch!

Pro seemed good enough, though some a bit fiddly, and some sections felt pretty committing. There wer... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : ... : Photo
By: mountainhick When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: Best photo on Mountainproject!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : The Cruise (5.9+)
By: mountainhick When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: Another party was starting Heavy Weather, so we went up to do this and the chimney/OW corner. Worth doing once, but I wouldn't make a special effort to do this climb otherwise. A serious lead with marginal pro getting to the bolt, so not recommended if you aren't solid at 5.9 or 5.9+.

Bolt/hanger is currently rusted/questionable.


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