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Member Since: Mar 23, 2005
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact Billy Danger

Point Rank: # 3,350
Total Points: 155

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Billy Danger been climbing?










Contributions


All 359 | Routes 1 | Areas 1 | Photos 36 | Page Improvements | Comments 36 | Posts 191 | Stars 57 | Ratings 37
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: North Carolina : Linville Gorge : Wiseman's View : Jolly Green Giant (pinnacle...
By: Billy Danger When: 11 hours ago

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Comments: Approach beta: There is a road that runs around the parking lot that is bordered by wooden separators. A very faint trail leaves the road at the right end of the first separators, which is close to some large rocks. If you look closely you see some old pink flagging. Follow this trail through sparsely populated trees until you come to a very old hunting stand. Continue slightly right past a few cairns until the trail descends steeping along a broad ridge. At a gap, drop to the left down a series... more >>


Location: North Carolina : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : The Big Arete (5.11)
By: Billy Danger When: Dec 22, 2015

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Comments: I thought the first pitch was probably closer to 10+, while the last pitch might warrant an 11- rating. This route boasts incredible positioning, dynamic movements, and thought provoking and sustained climbing. I never did find that small stopper placement though...


Location: North Carolina : Linville Gorge : Linville River Crag : Crimson Corner (5.11a)
By: Billy Danger When: Jun 25, 2015

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Comments: I recommend bringing lots of long draws, a small stopper, a .3/.4 sized cam, two .75s, a #1, and a #3. Good pitch.


Location: North Carolina : Linville Gorge : Linville River Crag : Jackpot (5.11)
By: Billy Danger When: Jun 14, 2015

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Comments: One of the best pitches in the Gorge. Pumpy, great gear, and incredible movement.


Location: North Carolina : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn : Middle Hawksbill : Hemlock Arete (5.10+)
By: Billy Danger When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: My interpretation of the beta for this climb differs from the description. I brought a bunch of cams but didn't place any, however I'm comfortable at the grade. I did notice one could place a finger sized piece before the high first bolt. If leading it all in one pitch, I would recommend slinging the bolt at the first anchor and the first bolt on the headwall long. the route is fun and pumpy, with a crux at the top. Also, not that this really matters, but it's probably closer to 80 feet as ... more >>


Location: Wyoming : Wind River Range : Titcomb Basin Area : Mt. Sacagawea : West Face-Right (5.9) : Photo
By: Billy Danger When: May 9, 2015

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Comments: Love the spartan rack. Must have been cool to be in such a remote place so long ago.


Location: North Carolina : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : White Russians Gone Bananas (5.11a)
By: Billy Danger When: Apr 28, 2015

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Comments: Apparently all is no longer well. I climbed White Russians about a month ago and the the locker was gone. No biggie. I left a biner and rapped off. Yesterday I came back to climb the route in "better style", and was surprised to see that my junky old 90s biner was now gone.

On an unrelated note, climbing White Russians to White Corner to Sword of the Lord was a jug hauling good time for me. Maybe we could call this link up the White Banana Sword?


Location: North Carolina : Rumbling Bald : Tail of the Cat Area : Photo
By: Billy Danger When: Jan 18, 2015

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Comments: This crack isn't that steep. The photo is really tilted.


Location: North Carolina : Rumbling Bald : Test Pilots Buttress : Space Monkey (5.11c)
By: Billy Danger When: Dec 17, 2014

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Comments: I love this pitch. The upper face contains three fantastic back to back sequences that involve using unique holds on perfect rock. I consider this a "local classic". Sure, there's a bush which detracts from the aesthetics of the line, but the climbing that surrounds it is burly and requires a diverse set of skills. Highly recommended!


Location: North Carolina : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Maginot Line (5.7)
By: Billy Danger When: Mar 25, 2014

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Comments: we did it in 2 pitches with a 70, but I think you could pull it off in 2 with a 60 as well. Absolute classic.


Location: North Carolina : Linville Gorge : Photo
By: Billy Danger When: Jan 1, 2013

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Comments: I found a social trail North of Sitting Bear. I think it was flagged


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Quiver and Quill (5.10c)
By: Billy Danger When: Sep 14, 2012

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Comments: I've done this route twice, and both times the rope got stuck in the crack. The second time I placed a big stopper at the problem spot, but it got stuck anyway. I think the problem arises from the fact that the gear anchor point is deeper in the crack, after the angle decreases. I really think a bolted anchor out on the face would add to the experience of this amazing climb. I'm aware of the nasty bolt wars Turkey Rocks has already been through, and I know the earth may stop rotating around ... more >>


Location: North Carolina : Ship Rock : Main Tier : BOG Man (5.11a)
By: Billy Danger When: Jul 1, 2012

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Comments: To me it makes a lot more sense to combine these two pitches into a single one hundred foot pitch.


Location: North Carolina : The Dump : The Dump (Routes) : Unwritten Law (5.12b/c)
By: Billy Danger When: Jul 1, 2012

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Comments: +1 for Joe's comment. I can attest to the nasty fall first hand


Location: North Carolina : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn : Lower Hawksbill : Trundle From Down Under (5.12a)
By: Billy Danger When: Jun 6, 2012

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Comments: Juggy, steep, pumpy, and really fun. Gear Beta: I used a #1 C4, a blue metolius, a small offset thingy, and a green C3 (which was key), for the arete leading to the traverse. After the bolts I placed a #3 C4, a #2 C4, and a .75 C4. This thing is as steep as the limestone in Thailand! Quality line. Thanks Nathan


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Great White Crime (5.11a)
By: Billy Danger When: May 23, 2011

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Comments: One of my favorites! I placed a bomber #2 C4 before the crux sequence. It was just a little below my feet when I grabbed the cool crystal thingy.


Location: Colorado : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : Granite Sea : Ankles Away (5.10b PG13)
By: Billy Danger When: Mar 31, 2011

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Comments: Good pitch.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico
By: Billy Danger When: Mar 8, 2010

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Comments: If you're flying into/out of Monterrey or will be spending a night in the city, I recommend staying at La Casa del Barrio. It's right downtown, close to the bars, is relatively cheap ($20/night), and was clean and relaxing. Here's what I have for info:

Diego do Montemayor 1221 sur
Monterrey Centro Barrio Antiguo
C.P. 64000 Monterrey N.L. Mexico
lacasadelbarrio.com.mx lacasadelbbarrio@gmail.com
Tel: (81) 8344 1800

If you go out to the bars, brace yourself! Those Mexicanos know how to ge... more >>


Location: Colorado : New Poudre Canyon Routes Gu...
By: Billy Danger When: Feb 4, 2010

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Comments: This guide rocks. Thanks, Cam and Ben.


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : Renaissance Wall : Pharoah's Child (5.10a)
By: Billy Danger When: Jun 15, 2009

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Comments: I really liked this route, but I wouldn't say it's one of the best 5.10 pitches on The Book. The gear was generally good, and got better the higher you climbed. I thought it was solid 5.10, with a variety of climbing styles. I would do this route again.


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Strawberry Short Cake (5.10c)
By: Billy Danger When: Mar 12, 2009

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Comments: I liked this route. I thought it was a little tough for the grade, but really just because the gear above the roof was crappy and hard to place. There is a bomber #2 BD at your feet when pulling crux. I would also suggest bringing a #4 BD if you have it. The upper 40 feet is easy, but without a #4 I had to run it out.


Location: Washington : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : North Early Winter Spire : The West Face (5.11-)
By: Billy Danger When: Feb 3, 2009

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Comments: This is a fantastic climb in an amazing area. The thin 11- crux is short and hard. I found the jams and locks to be really technical. The last pitch felt easier than 10c. I seem to remember it rated as 10a in our guide, but it's a really good pitch too. I dragged a #5 all the way up there but it was too small for the wide crack.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Ice Box (later renamed by s... : Mud in Your Eye (5.10d)
By: Billy Danger When: Oct 5, 2007

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Comments: One of the bolts at the top of this climb wiggles.


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : In Between (aka Right Dihed... (5.9 R)
By: Billy Danger When: Aug 13, 2007

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Comments: I did this as a variation to the Culp but reached the traverse differently. It took us two pitches to reach the pink slab. My partner belayed at top of the dihedral in an area of crappy rock. I then pulled to the right around an arete onto the slab. I thought it protected well enough...maybe a piece every 10-15 feet. The fixed cam was still there. Both this and the next dihedral pitch are rated 5.9 in Gillett's guide and felt soft to me.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Flying Buttress (5.10)
By: Billy Danger When: Jul 23, 2007

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Comments: I have the utmost respect for this climb. I simply didn't think I could climb it from the base, but utilizing both walls I was able to squirm my way to the final offwidth, where I then proceeded to weenie my way to the top. I was still breathing hard when my partner reached the belay bolts. Great route-a little hard for the grade!


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