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Member Since: Jul 27, 2012
Last Visit: Jul 11, 2017
Contact A.wilk Wilk

Point Rank: # 10,060
Total Points: 20

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has A.wilk Wilk been climbing?










Contributions


All 806 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 9 | Page Improvements | Comments 29 | Posts 27 | Stars 383 | Ratings 357
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Indian Summer Arete

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (5)

TR, 1 pitch, 40'

Massachusetts : Rose Ledge

Apr 8, 2013

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Verdons, Sharp Edges!

Verdons, Sharp Edges!

Jul 1, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Verdons, Bottom

Verdons, Bottom

Jul 1, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Verdon, top

Verdon, top

Jul 1, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Outside edge

Outside edge

Apr 28, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Inside edge

Inside edge

Apr 28, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Bottom of shoes

Bottom of shoes

Apr 28, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Blackwings Size 12

Blackwings Size 12

Apr 28, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the chimney on P2

Looking down from the chimney on P2

New York : The Gunks : ... : Updraft (5.5)

Jun 26, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: 5.9 on the right of the arete.  5.10 using the cra...

5.9 on the right of the arete. 5.10 using the crack to the left of the arete then back right towards the top. 5.12 using the crack to the left and going straight up to the bolts.

Massachusetts : Rose Ledge : Indian Summer Arete (5.9)

Apr 8, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Washington : Central Region : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : Fat and Skinny Man Walls : Oblivion (5.11a)
By: A.wilk Wilk When: Mar 26, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Two things about this one:
1) I don't think its as dangerous as advertised. The first two bolts are going to keep you off the ground doing those hard moves. The third one is definitely not great and there is shit to clip from. I still think an attentive belayer could keep you safe through this whole thing.

2) This is definitely harder than the 11a next door. The start moves to the jug are pretty unique and challenging to read.

This is a great climb with a short, tough s... more >>


Location: Washington : Central Region : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : Fat and Skinny Man Walls : Pornstar (5.10c)
By: A.wilk Wilk When: Mar 26, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Okay this one is actually great. Big holds + steep moves to start. Then a section of cool wavy pinches and jugs. Then off to a thin crack, finishing on jugs.


Location: Washington : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : Royal Columns : Orange Sunshine area : Columns Holiday (5.10c)
By: A.wilk Wilk When: Sep 26, 2016

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Comments: The start is a bit tricky before you reach the first bolt but it protects well with small cams. No need for gear anywhere else on the route.

The top is definitely the crux with two small crimps and a ton of feet to work with. I avoided the corner and I don't think you would need it to work through this bit.


Location: Washington : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Area : Snow Creek Wall : Outer Space (5.9)
By: A.wilk Wilk When: Jun 7, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This climb is sweet. P3 had a bunch of loose/hollow flakes throughout that are solid(ish) for now. You'll have to pull on some of the loose stuff eventually, so just be gentle.

I thought P4 was a freaking blast as well, wandering through slabby knobs then up into the corner...what a pitch!

Also, holy fixed cams. When I climbed this there were at least 4 #1 C4's and a bunch of other pro fixed throughout.


Location: Washington : Central Region : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : Sunshine Wall : Near End of Sunshine Wall (... : Snooze Ya Lose (5.11a)
By: A.wilk Wilk When: Apr 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The moves on this are very fun, with a few spots of difficulty. The route is also very well bolted.

The one bad thing is the mass amount of broken and loose rock on this climb. If someone came out and cleaned this route it would be a classic.


Location: Washington : Central Region : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : Sunshine Wall : King Pins : Narlux (5.10c)
By: A.wilk Wilk When: Apr 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This is a very nice climb for Vantage.

You can see a couple spots where big chunks were ripped out of the route but the remaining rock is very solid (for Vantage).

The bolts are perfectly placed at good stances but if you are breaking into this grade they may seem far apart. The bolts are definitely more spaced than the other sport climbs in the area.

All in all, get on it!


Location: Washington : Central Region : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : Kotick Memorial Wall : Monica's Dress (5.10b/c)
By: A.wilk Wilk When: Mar 22, 2016

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Comments: This is a very fun climb that deviates a bit from the standard Vantage arete. A bit of work down low gets you over to the arete which you can cruise up on jugs. Then the top out is a nice little surprise to keep you on your toes.

And yes, there is an anchor up there, but you can't see it from the ground.


Location: Washington : Central Region : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : Sunshine Wall : King Pins : Crossing the Threshold (5.8)
By: A.wilk Wilk When: Mar 22, 2016

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Comments: Bomber hand jam for your left hand. Bomber hand jam for your right hand. Both feet stemming between huge cutouts. Great climb!


Location: Washington : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : The Bend : Bend West : Reckoning (5.10b)
By: A.wilk Wilk When: Mar 22, 2016

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Comments: Seriously great movement on this climb. The start is okay but once you get to where the cracks diverge, the real fun begins. Continuous finger locks leads to an occasional rest. Great pro is abundant and you will have to work to find good feet every so often. Don't give up until you hit that jug right below the anchors!


Location: Washington : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : The Bend : Bend North : Milk Truck (5.10c)
By: A.wilk Wilk When: Mar 22, 2016

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Comments: This is a really fun climb and adds to the diversity of the area. I would agree, onsighting this with no chalk on the route is extremely difficult. Once you figure out the moves this is a stellar short climb with fun and delicate movement. Get on it!


Location: Washington : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : The Bend : Bend North : People, Places and Things (5.8)
By: A.wilk Wilk When: Mar 22, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I would say that this thing is significantly harder than other 5.8's in the area. I couldn't really get any good jams in the narrow crack but after the bulge until the gravely ledge. The pro, however, is great and the climbing is very thoughtful. A good climb for sure.


Location: Washington : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : Royal Columns : Main Face : Little Known Wonder (5.7)
By: A.wilk Wilk When: Nov 12, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Get on this thing! It doesn't seem like it gets much love but it is really awesome.

It is much longer than it looks, almost a full 30m pitch. There are good jams, stemming, and a bit of bear hugging towards the top.

The only thing detracting from this climb is some loose rock towards the top. Be really careful when you're up there because whatever you knock out has the potential to funnel down between the two pillars and end up right where your belayer is hanging out.

Full value 5.7!


Location: Washington : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : Royal Columns : Orange Sunshine area : Thriller Pillar (5.9)
By: A.wilk Wilk When: Nov 5, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I found this to be an incredibly sketchy climb to set up a top rope because of the positioning of the last bolt.

I'm not sure if I missed a bolt or not but I believe the last bolt on this climb is right before the hard move to the big jug up top. Once you pull past this steep bit the climb is basically over and you surmount a ledge to the anchors.

If your follower falls after they unclip that last bolt (which is possible, those moves are pumpy up there) they are going to take a gnarly swing ... more >>


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Hans' Puss (5.7)
By: A.wilk Wilk When: Aug 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The second pitch of this needs to see some more traffic! At the belay it looks like things are dicey and thin but it is actually quite well protected. I was confused where to go at first but if you head directly to the right for 15 feet you will get a couple really good hand holds that take medium cams. Keep heading right a bit and eventually look up for the path of least lichen. After the traverse this thing gets seriously lichenous but keep chugging and you get rewarded with some fun steep ... more >>


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Sente (5.9)
By: A.wilk Wilk When: Dec 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Not a lot of love here for Sente but I think this is a really fun route. Not nearly a classic but still worth your time if you're in the area and this is dry. In Gunks style, a little bit of wingspan helps but like others have said it is not impossible or dangerous if you are vertically challenged.


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