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Member Since: Aug 1, 2010
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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All 312 | Routes | Areas | Photos 10 | Page Improvements | Comments 8 | Posts 294 | Stars | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: New York : Adirondacks : E: High Peaks Region : Rooster Comb Mtn : The Old Route (5.4)
By: Auto-X Fil When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Pitch 1 has a very non-5.4 move right off the ground. There were two other tricky bits that went at 5.4 or so once I realized how to approach them - so perhaps there's a similar clever way to get up the first bit as well. Overall, the first two pitches have some grovelly, non-straightforward climbing, but are interesting with excellent rock quality.

The traverse is barely 4th class, but it's exposed pure friction and I left the rope on. Same with the final pitch - there's only one... more >>


Location: New York : Adirondacks : F: Lake George Region : Rogers Rock : Little Finger (5.5)
By: Auto-X Fil When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Excellent route! The climbing is sustained at 5.3-5.4, except for a couple moves low on P1 and at the start of P3, which are more like 5.5, and the final 4th class romp at the end of P3.

The 2010 Adirondack Rock guidebook shows canoe access closer to the climbs than the main boat launch - this is now gone and replaced with campsites and no drive-in access. You have to paddle all the way from the main launch, which is still a pretty short canoe trip. Beware wind and wakes!

Gear is excellent, es... more >>


Location: Maine : Katahdin : Chimney Pond ("South") Basi... : The Armadillo (5.7)
By: Auto-X Fil When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: Since my lead limit is about 5.8 at the crag, I figured 5.7 would test my limits on a wall like this, and I was right. It's quite serious, but being a solid 5.9/5.10 climber would make it much more of a romp than an adventure. If you are a stout climber and want to cast off into the unknown, stop reading now - detailed beta follows.

We banged out the approach to Chimney pond in a brisk 1:15, and stopped in to see the ranger. You could easily slip by if you wanted, but stopping in was no troubl... more >>


Location: New York : Adirondacks : * Adirondack Ice & Mixed : E: Interior High Peaks : Avalanche Lake/Pass : The Trap Dike (WI2)
By: Auto-X Fil When: May 25, 2011

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Comments: In early season, the ice climbing can be long and fun. But later in the year, the Dike will fill in and it'll be mostly a snow climb - but bring a second tool just in case.

The Dike itself is great, with some steep front-pointing cruxes. The slabs are a long, brutal hike with serious exposure (bring protection if the slabs are hard/icy!) but well worth the summit.

And, to top it all off, the ski tour into Avalanche Lake is second to none. If you've got the skills to descend Colden on planks,... more >>


Location: New York : Adirondacks : E: High Peaks Region : Mt Colden : Trap Dike (summer) (4th)
By: Auto-X Fil When: May 25, 2011

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Comments: Incredible climb. The views, scrambling, and exposure are all excellent.

I highly recommend the 1990 slide on the other side of Colden for a descent. It makes for a real adventuresome day.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : * Adirondack Ice & Mixed : D: Keene Valley and Chapel ... : Chapel Pond : Chapel Pond Slabs (WI2+)
By: Auto-X Fil When: May 25, 2011

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Comments: Probably the longest real climb in the Adirondacks. Great view of the valley and Giant, and loads of calf-burning front-pointing for most of the climb. Really fun, and a great place to work on dialing your systems, since the climbing is fast and easy.

It can be thin in places, so bring shorties.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : * Adirondack Ice & Mixed : D: Keene Valley and Chapel ... : Giant Mountain : Roaring Brook Falls (WI3+)
By: Auto-X Fil When: May 25, 2011

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Comments: Extremely fun. P2 is often a snow slog, P1 and P3 are both challenging in different ways.

Be careful of thin ice at any time of year. If you've never climbed an active waterfall this might not be a good one to start on unless you have good, recent beta that it's solid.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : * Adirondack Ice & Mixed : B: Climbs near Lake Placid : Wilmington Notch - High Fal... : Multiplication Gully (WI3+)
By: Auto-X Fil When: May 25, 2011

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Comments: Yep, I wouldn't bother parking if there's another car in the lot.

You can belay at the cedars or at a pin right below the crux. The first pitch is short to very short, and quite easy. The second pitch is long and varied, with excellent climbing.


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