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Member Since: Aug 30, 2012
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 17
Total Points: 12,485

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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All 2574 | Routes 508 | Areas 198 | Photos 897 | Page Improvements | Comments 303 | Posts 34 | Stars 585 | Ratings 49
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Washington : Okanogan : McLoughlin Canyon (Tonasket... : South Canyon (aka Last Wall... : The Mid West - South End : ... : Photo
By: applewood When: Jun 4, 2017

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Comments: Yeah it can be hard work. Easier when the lichen and moss is dry.... I hate scrapping/gouging my knuckles! What's really depressing is the stuff grows back. I scrubbed hundreds of routes in the Kettle Valley in the 90's and they're all licheny again. I guess eventually the bolts will rust away too... but I'll be gone by then.


Location: Washington : Okanogan : McLoughlin Canyon (Tonasket... : South Canyon (aka Last Wall... : The Mid West - South End : ... : Photo
By: applewood When: Jun 4, 2017

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Comments: I think the trick is going often enough that the snakes just get used to you...


Location: Washington : Okanogan : McLoughlin Canyon (Tonasket... : South Canyon (aka Last Wall... : The Mid West - South End : ... : Photo
By: applewood When: Jun 4, 2017

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Comments: I've seen those kind, but they look too small for primary cleaning, but for cleaning while actually climbing a smaller brush would be way better.

I usually go through about one bigger brush per route - cleaning on rappel (then the top half can be cut off and the stubby brush can be used for less extensive work. Over the years I've gotten a lot less enthusiastic about scrubbing routes so thoroughly (figuring anyone complaining is welcome to do more if they want....) This route was actua... more >>


Location: Washington : Okanogan : McLoughlin Canyon (Tonasket... : South Canyon (aka Last Wall... : The Mid West - South End : ... : Photo
By: applewood When: Jun 4, 2017

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Comments: Thus the need to get an early start.


Location: Washington : Okanogan : McLoughlin Canyon (Tonasket... : South Canyon (aka Last Wall... : The Mid West - North End : Photo
By: applewood When: May 30, 2017

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Comments: One Shot Deal 5.9- *** (red line)


Location: Washington : Okanogan : McLoughlin Canyon (Tonasket... : South Canyon (aka Last Wall... : The Mid West - North End : Photo
By: applewood When: May 26, 2017

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Comments: Swiftly - 5.9- **** (red line)


Location: Washington : Okanogan : McLoughlin Canyon (Tonasket... : South Canyon (aka Last Wall... : The Mid West - South End : Photo
By: applewood When: May 25, 2017

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Comments: Swiftly - 5.9- **** (red line)


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : City of Rocks : Flaming Rock : Tail Feather (5.10a)
By: applewood When: May 19, 2017

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Comments: As someone unfamiliar with this part of The City the start of Raindance did not jump out at us, although the more direct line of Tail Feather did. I thought Tail Feather an aesthetic looking line, while the indirect first pitch of Raindance (which we only saw once we had gotten down) looked contrived (and even abandoned seeming - lol). As for the long reach part (btw, they weren't very hard for me at 6'2" to reach, but I figured they would be for a short climber), the first was down... more >>


Location: Washington : Okanogan : McLoughlin Canyon (Tonasket... : South Canyon (aka Last Wall... : The Mid West - North End : Photo
By: applewood When: May 18, 2017

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Comments: All Been Done Before - 5.10a ** (red line)
Sundance - 5.10b *** (yellow line)


Location: Washington : Okanogan : Kettle Valley (Curlew) : The Bookstore : Photo
By: applewood When: May 15, 2017

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Comments: Yep, she is, now 22. We just a spent a few days at the City of Rocks climbing together.
Rock Climbing Photo: Shae's belay at the start of the 4th pitch.
Shae's belay at the start of the 4th pitch.



Location: Washington : Okanogan : Kettle Valley (Curlew) : Morning Rock : Morning Rock - West Face : Photo
By: applewood When: May 15, 2017

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Comments: left to right;
Tender Foot - 5.10a ** (yellow line)
Eagle Scout - 5.11c/d ** (red line)
Where Eagles Dare - 5.10d ** (blue line)


Location: Washington : Okanogan : Kettle Valley (Curlew)
By: applewood When: May 14, 2017

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Comments: General conditions note; the Kettle Valley hasn't been climbed much in the past 15+ years, so many of the once scrubbed routes have regrown a coat of lichen and/or moss. Carrying a wire brush is probably a good idea, and some routes will need to be rescrubbed on rappel before they are enjoyable/safe and/or feasible to climb.


Location: Washington : Okanogan : Kettle Valley (Curlew) : Morning Rock : Middle Cliff Morning Rock : Photo
By: applewood When: May 13, 2017

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Comments: left to right;
The Final Word - 5.9 (yellow line)
Riddle Me This - 5.10c * (orange line)
Groovin' 5.9 * (green line)
Elvis 5.8 * - with 5.7, 8 and 9 variations shown - (blue line)
After The Fall 5.11c *** (red line)
Spring Fever 5.10c* (purple line)


Location: Washington : Okanogan : Kettle Valley (Curlew) : The Bookstore : The Bookstore - Main Area : Photo
By: applewood When: May 13, 2017

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Comments: Romancing the Novel - 5.11b* (blue line)
Facelift - 5.10a** (red line)
The High Road - 5.7** (yellow line)


Location: Washington : Okanogan : Kettle Valley (Curlew) : The Bookstore : The Bookstore - Main Area : Photo
By: applewood When: May 13, 2017

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Comments: Left to right;
Arrowhead - 5.9**** (red line)
Full Sail - 5.10b ** (orange line)
Crest of a Knave - 5.7 *** (yellow line)
Hound Dog - 5.8R * (green line)
The Cat's Meow - 5.8 ** (blue line)
Monkey See Monkey Do - 5.10b **** (purple line)


Location: Washington : Okanogan : Kettle Valley (Curlew) : Morning Rock : Morning Rock - Central : Pap Smear (5.11b)
By: applewood When: May 11, 2017

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Comments: Last time I was there to climb a couple of years ago the starting slab was somewhat overgrown with lichen, and in need of a scrubbing, making the first bolt seem a long way up....


Location: Washington : Okanogan : McLoughlin Canyon (Tonasket... : South Canyon (aka Last Wall... : Upper West Side : Honeycomb Roof (5.10c)
By: applewood When: May 10, 2017

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Comments: Spring 2017 - once again honeybees are making comb in the pocket just left of the crux!


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : City of Rocks : Flaming Rock : Tail Feather (5.10a)
By: applewood When: May 8, 2017

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Comments: After a 21 year absence of climbing in The City I thought I'd do the highly recommended Raindance to get reacquainted....so followed the new guide's topo... and headed up this thing by mistake! At the time I thought it must be at least 7+ and not the 7 everyone thought...haha. In retrospect it may be a 10- but it's probably easier. I did find the bolting to be odd though with some of the clips to be long reaches, and down low felt a fall from the patinaed face would be nasty, so real... more >>


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Warrior Rock : The Road Back Home (5.6)
By: applewood When: May 7, 2017

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Comments: Really enjoyed the climbing but the low bolt placement at the crux could lead to a bad fall onto the slab below. When my daughter led it she placed a medium sized nut in the patina section between the 4th and 5th bolts and felt much more secure.


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : City of Rocks : Flaming Rock : Raindance (5.7)
By: applewood When: May 7, 2017

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Comments: haha - totally screwed up on this one and climbed the newly bolted Tail Feather (10-) instead of the first pitch of Raindance (sure seemed hard for a 5.7 at the time...) Anyway, saw the bolts wandering up from the north for Raindance but thought them for the unrecommended Pygmies in a Vice.

We got the long second pitch right though and found it MUCH easier (three stars, with a couple of 5.5 moves followed by a lot of lovely 5.2-5.4 granite sun-cup climbing). Great views from the belays!


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Castle Rock - South Face : Big Time (5.7)
By: applewood When: May 7, 2017

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Comments: We did this great route in 3 pitches; P1 - 5.7- **** (100'), P2 - 5.6 *** (150'), P3 - 5.4 ** (150') - and 4 raps (down Little Time) with a 60m rope.


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Sex, Drugs and Rock & Roll (5.11a)
By: applewood When: Apr 29, 2017

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Comments: Okay, so according to Dave's (the guidebook author) comment above - this MP page is for "Sex, Drugs and Rock & Roll" not "Life Without Sex" (in the '91 edition of Bingham's guide "Lw/oS" is shown as an 11 just to the left with no stars, and apparently no bolts).

Did "Sex Drugs and Rock and Roll" back in '@SE... more >>


Location: Washington : Okanogan : Mount Hull - Lower SW Face ... : Lower Wall : Photo
By: applewood When: Apr 27, 2017

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Comments: from left to right;
Divine Intervention 5.10a** (yellow line)
Pocket Pool 5.6* (green line)
Three of a Perfect Pair 5.10b/5.9 ** (blue line)
Rocket in My Pocket 5.10c*** (red line)


Location: Washington : Okanogan : Mount Hull - Lower SW Face ... : Big Butte : Big Butte - South Face : BOOTIE FRUITY (5.4)
By: applewood When: Apr 26, 2017

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Comments: Tootie Fruity is now officially being upped to a 5.4 grade and so the name changing to Bootie Fruity


Location: Washington : Okanogan : Mount Hull - Lower SW Face ... : Tortuga
By: applewood When: Apr 26, 2017

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Comments: There are now a few more routes (of unknown grade) to the NW of the slabs. Some of these look quite amazing.


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