REI Community


Member Since: Nov 1, 2010
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact another Chad

Point Rank: # 666
Total Points: 1,205

22 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has another Chad been climbing?










Contributions


All 727 | Routes 40 | Areas 2 | Approach Trails | Photos 155 | Page Improvements | Comments 161 | Posts 1 | Stars 196 | Ratings 172
Page 1 of 7.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (2) Hanging Gardens : The Hoe (5.7)
By: another Chad When: Jul 14, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Aaron, I highly doubt this line has a name despite getting climbed from time to time. This is your chance for a legacy! What's the name?

Chad


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (2) Hanging Gardens : The Hoe (5.7)
By: another Chad When: Jul 14, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Pretty sure Prometheus Slab is a little further to the right. The the anchor is somewhat hidden from above but it's accessible.

Chad


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Rocky Butte : (91) Breakfast Cracks : Birds of Paradise (5.10d)
By: another Chad When: Jul 14, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: First recorded ascent.

Chad


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (v) Monument Area : Puddy's Tower : A Little Seduction (5.12a)
By: another Chad When: Jul 10, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Chris, the comment "helps to be taller" makes me wonder if the fourth bolt could have been placed in a better spot. Hopefully, first ascentionists are keeping short climbers in mind while bolting. I get that some hard clips are unavoidable, even with forethought by the FA.

Chad


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Cliff : Rockgarden Wall : Marqueritaville (5.10d)
By: another Chad When: Jul 8, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I took a brush to this route yesterday in an effort to make it climbable. It's far from clean but at least now you'll be able to see your feet and gear placements.

Also, I suspect this route is misspelled in Portland Rock Climbs. I've left it as it was printed. Maybe there's a punny history behind the spelling.

Chad


Location: Washington : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : {10} Mordor : Angle of the Dangle (5.12c)
By: another Chad When: Apr 12, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Sorry to hear your cam got pilfered Micah. I'd like to give AotD a try this summer. Not having any offset cams, is there anything else that will substitute well? Is that the only gear?

Chad


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (o) Angel Flight Crags : (3) Follies of the Youth Bl... : High Sage (5.9)
By: another Chad When: Oct 12, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Erik, the clue for what's going on with the grade on High Sage is in the name. There used to be a robust sage that climbers could use to perch themselves on to reach decent holds. The sage is long gone and in its place is a strenuous move off the deck or a long traverse in from left.

Chad


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Kashmir (5.12a)
By: another Chad When: Sep 7, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Geoff, the gear section is still Red Eye, the second pitch.

Chad


Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : The Swine (aka Enola Hill) : Jugalicious (5.10a)
By: another Chad When: Jul 25, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A 60m rope will work too with a few feet to spare.

Chad


Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : The Swine (aka Enola Hill) : Fat Crack (5.8)
By: another Chad When: Jul 25, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This crack is a nice way to get to the top of the column. Gear to 4" protects it well.

Chad


Location: Oregon : Mt. Hood : The Swine (aka Enola Hill) : Swine of the Times (5.10)
By: another Chad When: Jul 24, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: You can rappel from the top of the second pitch with a 60m rope and have several feet of rope to spare. I'm not sure about 1 to 2" gear but a #.75 C4 works nicely for the optional piece on p2.

Chad


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (4) Spring Rock : Ground Effects (5.12b)
By: another Chad When: Jul 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The second roof felt more than 'a little tricky'. In my mind, that was the crux. I imagine the first roof would be the toughest section for sub-5'9" climbers though. I can just reach it.

The finishing slab (shared with Free Bird) has been cleaned up. It's far from perfect but quite a bit better than it was.

Chad


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (a) Picnic Lunch Wall : Snack Attack (5.13d)
By: another Chad When: Jun 2, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the clarification Ryan. For some reason I thought this line was something else.

Nice work Drew!

Chad


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (vv)Staender Ridge : (3) The Mole : Chasing Blue Sky (5.10c)
By: another Chad When: May 30, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Expect the grade on this to vary significantly, depending on your height.

Chad


Location: Washington : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : (3) Snake Wall : Opdyke's Crack (5.9+)
By: another Chad When: May 27, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the little bit of history Bill. I appreciate hearing the details, rashes and all. Did you have a set of cams at that point?

Bryan, thanks for the cleaning!

Chad


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (a) Picnic Lunch Wall : Snack Attack (5.13d)
By: another Chad When: May 26, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Did this not get freed by Watts?

Chad


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Opus (5.12)
By: another Chad When: May 12, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Out of respect to the first ascentionist, I added this climb to the MP database as a 5.11+. Having climbed most of the 5.11's and many of the 5.12's at Broughton, I strongly believe that Opus is considerably harder than 11+. It is an outlier at a crag that is already known for having stiff grades.

Chad

  • edit 5/18/16: Ok, the route grade has been changed to reflect reality. Considering how difficult Opus is in relation to other routes at Broughton, mid 5.12 seems justified.



Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (i) The Fourth Horseman : John Galt Line (5.11a/b)
By: another Chad When: Apr 27, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Small update to the description above. This route is in the latest edition of the guidebook.

I enjoyed JGL up to the point that I had to clip the bolt above the roof. Either I didn't follow the first ascentionist's path or that bolt is in a funky location.

Chad


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Cliff : Rockgarden Wall : Night Vision (5.11b)
By: another Chad When: Apr 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: update: Three years ago I tried to funk out the pin in question. Today I tried again. Either my cable was going to snap or the piton eye was was going to tear before I could get the pin to budge. Agreed, pins are not an ideal solution, especially given our climate, but this one seems to be extremely solid right now and it happens to be in a great spot for the leader.

Chad


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Red Eye (5.10b/c)
By: another Chad When: Apr 8, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: P1? I think that 5.10- is commensurate with other Broughton climbs at that grade. There are quite a few 5.10a's and 10b's there that feel harder to me than the first pitch of Red Eye: Tip City, Short Circuit, The Spring, Gandalf's Grip, Risky Business, and p2 of Loose Block Overhang. If you want to see what 5.10c feels like, check out the second pitch of Red Eye, Shoot From the Hip, Fun In the Mud, Short Fuse, or Superstition. You might reconsider the first pitch of Red Eye as a 5.10c positio... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (t) Kiss of the Lepers Butt... : First Kiss (5.7)
By: another Chad When: Feb 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: dydayley, yes, rappelling down The Climb is a common exit for First Kiss. You have good odds of The Climb being open. With that said, I'll never bother with the rappel again. It's slow and there's always the potential for rockfall or stuck ropes. Especially with kids I just wouldn't bother with this. A single rappel (two 60m ropes or reportedly one 70m rope) will get you to the base of the Hello Kitty cliff and a simple walk-off to climber's right. If you've come from Misery Ridge, this ha... more >>


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (d) Aggro Gully : The Assassin (5.14d)
By: another Chad When: Feb 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Incredible accomplishment. If anybody's interested, Watts has a good description of, what would be, The Assassin in the guidebook (project 30b).

Chad


Location: Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (2) Hanging Gardens : Slapfest (5.12b PG13)
By: another Chad When: Oct 16, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: No, not really. I thought the clips were relatively easy. Not falling between them, well....

Using a single carabiner on the second bolt is a good idea.

Adam, I am so confused. There's a jug sidepull in the left crack one can use to clip the second bolt with.


Chad


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (7) Flounder and Cod Rock : Butter Knife (5.10c)
By: another Chad When: Oct 12, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Danger Gone! The failing anchor has been replaced.

Chad


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (p) Spiderman Buttress : Spiderman (5.7)
By: another Chad When: Sep 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Nick, I totally agree that climbing Spiderman in two pitches is the way to go. I think the confusion lies in having the Squashed Spider anchor in the middle of the first pitch. People see it and assume they need to stop.

Chad


Page 1 of 7.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About