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Rock Climbing Photo: Anonymous Coward


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Sep 30, 2005
Contact Anonymous Coward

Point Rank: # 34
Total Points: 10,187
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
339 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Anonymous Coward been climbing?










Contributions


All 4976 | Routes 347 | Areas 49 | Photos 401 | Page Improvements | Comments 3758 | Posts 19 | Stars 402 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 5, 2005

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Comments: I am planning a trip to RMNP over Thanksgiving weekend. I would like to do alpine routes in the Long's/ Meeker area - Dreamweaver, Darkstar, Notch, Alexanders'....) would these be possible to climb in the end of November, avi and all? Is their even ice left on these routes this late? I know and understand the whole changing conditions thing, I was wondering more about if these routes are climbed at all this late in the fall? Not knowing much local bata, all info would be great. thanks Jon from ... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - West : Delay of Game (5.8)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 4, 2005

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Comments: You can get off this with a single 70m rope into the "gully" climber's right of the route. - BJ Sbarra


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : Barnum Rock
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 4, 2005

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Comments: Some fun climbs in here, especially the 5.9..

Suitable for beginning leaders if they have a good lead head, there are some should-not-fall situations, runouts on easy slabs and ledges..


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : Rightside Variation (5.9+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 4, 2005

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Comments: Great in one pitch if you have PLENTY of gear and like thin awkward cracks!


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Center Route (5.9+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 3, 2005

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Comments: Leave the #4 and 3.5 at home you don't need them. You can also rap the route with one 60m rope. It takes a little longer (raps) but you don't need to worry about hauling (and hiking) with up a second rope. Best 5.9+ I've ever done! Dave of The Kirtlands


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Dogwood Crag : A Modest Man from Mandrake (5.9)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 2, 2005

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Comments: This climb is missing a bolt. I believe it is the fifth bolt that is without a hanger so there is a groundfall runout over some easy ground to the roof. Though it is easy in this section... it would result in serious injury to fall here. If you can't hold it together mentally, you might want to shy away from this till the hanger is replaced. Also... there are hangers without chains at the top so prepare to belay from above and walk off.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Not One Of Us (5.12a)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 1, 2005

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Comments: A decent route, I wasn't a big fan but then again I don't really know shit about shit. I would [recommend] that if you are going to put in the effort then you should carry a second 60m rope for an [awesome] 170' rappel all the way to the bottom. This saves tons of time plus you get the an [awesome] view of this section of the canyon, under the third pitch.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : The Coffin (5.9)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 1, 2005

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Comments: First of all, I wasn't whining about the approach, I just said it's long by LCC standards, which is true. Secondly, I know how to finger jam. Thirdly, you violated the only guideline to this site: don't be a jerk.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : The Coffin (5.9)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Sep 30, 2005

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Comments: Some folks just don't like a nice granite crack climb....but if you do....this route is a GREAT, MUST DO LCC classic. aproach keeps the lighweights out but is no big deal, or for a more varied outing do Cresent/final link to the Coffin...or better yet, lead the coffin and the second pitch corner all as one! great stuff!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : The Coffin (5.9)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Sep 29, 2005

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Comments: I thought this would be something special, but it really wasn't. It has a weird start then the finger locks are funky and off-finger sized. Plus, the approach is fairly long by LCC standards. It looks cool and it's easy, but it's really not what it's built up to be. I will say that it gets more fun towards the top and the traverse. Sorry to rain on this parade, but I would have liked to know ahead of time that there are people out there who aren't enamored by it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Lizzie Borden (5.9)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Sep 29, 2005

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Comments: Thanks for the clarification. Sounds like another character building LCC gear route! Nice work!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Lizzie Borden (5.9)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Sep 29, 2005

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Comments: Nice Nathan! Always wanted to do this route, but never knew much about it. Why isn't it for a 5.9 leader? runout? no gear? Just curios what you meant by that.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Sep 28, 2005

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Comments: No need for a stick to clip the first bolt. Look 5' to the left of the start and you'll see a bomber slot for a big stopper (#8 rock or so).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Continue-us (5.11b R)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Sep 28, 2005

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Comments: No longer a climb between the lines, but a climb along the lines. Another true Eldo classic?


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Sharks Fin : Shark's Breath (5.7)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Sep 28, 2005

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Comments: To Ron and all the rest of you bolters. You guys don't even know who the 1st acentionist are since they were done back in the early 60's and early 70's. It seems that maybe you should all go to a gym if you want to dummy down every rock and line you come to. With that said, I do not, nor do I condone any chopping of bolts. Bolt chopping and bolting just needs to stop. My wife gets tired of taking pictures of beautiful rock formations with a bunch of hardware sticking out of it


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Public Enemy (5.13c)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Sep 28, 2005

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Comments: If Wade is establishing new routes, then expect the bar to be raised. 12d equates to the level he boulders at in flip flops.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : Strange Ranger (5.13d)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Sep 28, 2005

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Comments: Onsighted by Spain's Pablo Rodriguez in Sept 2005. Daaaaaaamn.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Emancipation
By: Anonymous Coward When: Sep 28, 2005

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Comments: The profile route has seen a FA. Rob Pizm from Golden Colorado did the route this weekend giving it 13a/b. Good Job Rob.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Lost Arrow Spire : Lost Arrow (5.7 R)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Sep 27, 2005

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Comments: Gotta agree here. Though the move around the corner is very airy, (you can get some small nuts here, but they'll ptobably fall out once you are around the corner:-)...the climbing once on teh face is easy, huge, City Style dishes. If you are freaking out, you can go left and get some gear. I lead this as a total beginning leader, and though it is runout...it would take a cannonball in the chest to blow you off those dishes. VS is misleading....R is fine. Besides...the real scariest part is low... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Good Times (5.6)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Sep 27, 2005

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Comments: Climb straight up to the bolt...it's all there. Sometimes these feel like 5.6...sometimes they feel like 5.7. The Calderone guide downrates them to 5.5.....I don't think that right though, 6/7 seems more like it. What do you think?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : The West Slabs : The West Slabs (5.5)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Sep 27, 2005

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Comments: Does anyone know who added the needless bolts? I heard this a product of lazy Exum guides, wanting to make their lives easier by having fixed stations?....not sure if that's true...just curious if anyone knows the real story. Another loss to retrofitting.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : The Buzz (5.12d)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Sep 26, 2005

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Comments: Sorry, AC from 71.208.46.17, but I sent the Buzz 2nd try on Thursday 9/22, and scored a crappy bail biner in the process. Post back when you're ready to not make a fool of yourself.

Since you are curious about the grade, this route is easier than both Hang 'em High and I'm Not a Philistine, both Rifle 12c, and about the same overall difficulty as Movement of Fear. Go get on In Your Face or Beer Run to see what real 12+ and 13- routes feel like. Sound credible enough?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Salud (5.7+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Sep 26, 2005

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Comments: The 'small cam' under the first roof (between 2nd & 3rd) bolts is a 1/4" (yellow TCU) or nut. 2 soloists on it the day I was there. One human and one chipmunk.


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Sep 26, 2005

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Comments: Can anyone shed some light on where the 5.6 called "Air" is located? Thanks


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Long Dong Dihedral (5.7)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Sep 25, 2005

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Comments: I climbed this route the other day. It is definitely not 5.8. There's maybe one 5.7 move on the climb. It is worth the climb to finish with the last pitch of Zentropa however. If you're looking for a good trad lead, I wouldn't recommend this one.


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