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Rock Climbing Photo: Anonymous Coward


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Sep 30, 2005
Contact Anonymous Coward

Point Rank: # 34
Total Points: 10,187
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
339 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Anonymous Coward been climbing?










Contributions


All 4976 | Routes 347 | Areas 49 | Photos 401 | Page Improvements | Comments 3758 | Posts 19 | Stars 402 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Da Butts
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 6, 2005

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Comments: To approach just follow the road past the turn off for Ass Hole Rocks. after a small hill you will drop down and be able to see the top of the rocks to your right. Stay low and walk around to the base.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Morada (5.12a/b)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 5, 2005

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Comments: Ironic that people are saying "color me..." since morada means purple in Spanish. It also is a chapel for Los Hermanos del Penitente.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Breakfast in Bed (5.8)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 4, 2005

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Comments: Not sure what you mean by "not a good route for the beginning 5.8 leader" as the route is easily protected and only requires a little [commitment] after the cam at the lip. I would submit that this is an excellent route for the beginning 5.8 leader.


Location: SD : Meat Packing Plant : Settler's Rock (a.k.a., Veg... : "The Green Mile" on the Gre... (V10)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 2, 2005

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Comments: This whole boulder was known as the "Big Boulder" in the 1980's when climbers first started topping out on the south face of it. The textured face on the southeast side has been known as the "Sculpted Face" for over 25 years. I know of a number of different up problems that were climbed in the 1980's including the "Green Monster" which was actually called "Lemon-Aid" originally.


Location: SD : Meat Packing Plant : Settler's Rock (a.k.a., Veg... : The Pocket Problem (V5-6)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 2, 2005

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Comments: The "Pocket Wall" has been known since the early 1980's as "Winter's Warmth". There are at least 6 problems across and through the roof established yester-year by several old farts. It seems pretty strange that people keep claiming first ascents on this hillside. Many talented boulderers have thoroughly climbed out this area long ago. Go to Baldy if your looking for gems to claim F.A.s on.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : West Face (5.5)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 1, 2005

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Comments: I did some research online and found out that rattlers can live as high as 10000 ft. and that it was common seeing them in the fall. I guess he was headed home for the winter.If it was a bull snake he sure did a good job of sounding like one big pissed off rattlesnake!! We have kicked around several ideas even a bird dropping the thing on the route. Thanks for the input, After this experience I think anything is possible....JC


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 1, 2005

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Comments: There is no way the first pitch is 5.8. I would rate it at a 5.7-, but it was pretty wet when I climbed it. I can see how if you climb it wrong it could be harder. It is a step from a big stance at the bottom of the flake, to good feet and nice holds. Pitch 3 is the crux and went at easy 5.7, it is really short with big holds all over and really good gear whenever you want.

I took 1 set of cams to #2 Camalot w/ doubles in green, yellow and red Aliens, and about 5 stoppers. I wish I wou... more >>


Location: CO : The Wet Mountains : Newlin Creek
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 1, 2005

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Comments: Did a couple of cool trad routes here not long ago, and one wild bolted arete. Is there good bouldering in this area? Also, has anyone heard about some cool boulders out near Rocky Ford?

Thanks

Jason F.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : West Face (5.5)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 31, 2005

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Comments: Did the 5.7+ route in the picture. We climbed it 2 days ago. I was the 3rd person up and while at the belay the 2nd almost got bit by a rattlesnake!!! In late October on the West Face of the Castle two pitches up a rattlesnake. Can anyone explain this? Wildlife Alert: super pissed off rattlesnake in the dark chimney above the 7+ in this picture!!!! Beware until first hard freeze!!!No I'm not kidding.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : The Scoop Area : The Scoop (V3+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 31, 2005

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Comments: I'd say solid V3. Awesome and very aesthetic problem. Bring your body tension for those terrible sloping feet and a dash of flexibility for some of the highsteppin'!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Rusty Wall : Wangerbanger (5.11c)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 31, 2005

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Comments: GREAT

Start 5.9 hands, "To short, would like about 20 more feet of this section", to a thin steep crux. Good protection. The difficulty of the crux will very with hand size. Don't be afraid to fire this one on lead, you can get great gear before the crux (15 or so feet) with a very clean fall.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Snickers : Snickers - North Face : Joyride (5.11c)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 31, 2005

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Comments: Good route. The 2nd bolt is not too bad; I am 5'6 and had no problem clipping it. If you are short, you will have to make one more move to the bolt. A lot of Bob's newer routes are similar in this way, if you are short you have to really stretch for the bolt or clip in the middle of a crux move. However, if you want a lower bolt from the rest stance, you are always welcome to create your own route.

Bob, good work, you are putting up some amazing climbs in a place that most would have ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group : Jah Man (5.10c)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 31, 2005

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Comments: dive pitches my arse! we did it in two w/70m rope link first three and last two. xcellent route only need one rope. easist approach I've done in desert!!! if you liked castlton; you'll love the sista.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 31, 2005

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Comments: A 60m reaches the ground.. a 50m definitely would not, the route is not 70ft like the guidebook says.. Pulling the rope is pretty rough on it due to the flat section at the top of the route so like the other poster said you may want to rap down the 5.11 route on the north side..I would recommend staying on belay until you get clipped into the north side shuts, they're down a bit from the top of the pinnacle..


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Green Mountain Pinnacle : Death and Disfiguration (5.10)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 31, 2005

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Comments: During an on-sight, solo, first free attempt back in the seventies, Jim Erickson fell from this route and broke both his legs! He then had to crawl down to the Royal Arch Trail for help.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : South Face (5.8)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 30, 2005

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Comments: Did this route back in September of '05 and had no problems finding any of the rap stations. My only concern is setting up for the 4th rap after walking 50 ft from the 3rd. Make sure not to throw your ropes skier's right (looking down). There is a large flake that could potentially catch your ropes, and appears to have some history . Had no problems but just a heads up. If it's windy, you can butterfly coil or lower the first. Awesome route. Spectacular summit. Do this climb during the we... more >>


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Black Hole : Center Route (V10)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 29, 2005

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Comments: Young Doug...1st ascent by David Twinam...late '80s early '90s. Unrepeated for a long time.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Tagger (5.10b/c)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 28, 2005

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Comments: I would have to agree with Jason about the placement at the lip of the roof on pitch 2. I led it for the first time today and skipped the placement at the lip. [It] appeared as though a placement at the lip would just take away a good hand hold and you can get tons of gear in the roof itself. I fell once at almost the lip, and the angle of the wall in relation to your placements in the roof makes for a surprisingly soft landing. Great route, solid 5.10


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Unknown (5.8+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 28, 2005

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Comments: Grid a granite slab??? Huh.. always found that kinda shit offensive. Need a crow bar Troy? I got a big one. Funny how nobody is claiming the route as theirs, or somebody's buddy isn't sticking up for it........I hear the delicate sound of bolts being yanked......lol...


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 28, 2005

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Comments: Yeah, it's mine. An old oval, probably REI. 2nd to last bolt if I remember correctly.

It was getting late....no excuses though, stupid to leave it. I'm headed back tomorrow and it was my intention to remove it.

I hate leaving stuff like that behind, especially when we're trying to keep on the down low.

Anyway, keep it. You deserve it. It's never been dropped, so consider it good to go. Thanks for cleaning up my mess :)

I'm AK, not TG.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Unknown (5.8+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 27, 2005

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Comments: good canadite for the crow bar.......


Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 27, 2005

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Comments: I don't know the names of any of the climbs, but I did do the most classic line within my ability. The line was the first one you come across and was about 10-12 bolts....the longest of the group. I think the rating was about 11a/b, maybe a bit harder.

Had to back clean a couple draws in order to make it to the top. The thing was kinda like the Energizer Bunny...kept going and going.

Secret Agent Man...great DEVO tune. Kinda dates me I guess.

Going back this weekend


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : King Otto's Castle : Don Genaro Crack (5.10a)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 26, 2005

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Comments: great route. The start is a bit run out, but stick with it. A bit stout for the grade.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Concupiscent Curds (5.10+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 26, 2005

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Comments: The cold shunt anchors at the top are wearing thin.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Isaac : Tricks of the Trade (5.10+ C2)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 25, 2005

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Comments: Rack: 1-2 sets HB offset nuts1 set nuts, 2x Aliens blue-yellow2x Camalots .5 - .753x Camalots #1 - #32x Camalots #3.5 - #4.5#5 Camalotcamhook

Santa Klaus really is a death chimney. If hauling, make sure you move the pig up to the base of Calvinator.

The bivy at the Second Ledges is merely OK.

Can leave the big gear at the base of the aid pitch -- only need to #4 thereafter.

Aid pitch had only 10 feet of C2, then was bomber C1 to the belay. Used couple ... more >>


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