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Rock Climbing Photo: Anonymous Coward


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Sep 30, 2005
Contact Anonymous Coward

Point Rank: # 34
Total Points: 10,187
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
339 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Anonymous Coward been climbing?










Contributions


All 4976 | Routes 347 | Areas 49 | Photos 401 | Page Improvements | Comments 3758 | Posts 19 | Stars 402 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Martha (5.5 WI2+ M2-3)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Dec 1, 2005

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Comments: Anybody know if Martha is in as of 12/1?


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass Highway (108) : Table Mountain : The Grotto : Squealer (5.11c)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Dec 1, 2005

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Comments: this route is bad ass! the best sport route ive climbed at 11c so far. situated next to mostly 5.12s it does not seem like it would go so easy, yet big holds and good rests make it only 5.11. stepping off the piller is wild. pumpy.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 30, 2005

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Comments: I saw someone grate across the original Ivy Baldwin cable in the early '70s. They had to wrap a chain around it due to the large diameter. You guys who are asking about setting up a high line: the Parkies will never let it happen. That said, what kind of rope or cable would you use and how would you set it up?


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Old Stage Road
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 29, 2005

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Comments: The area past St. Peter's Dome all the way to Cripple Creek is predominantly in Pike National Forest, so access issues will mainly be relegated to parking and erosion considerations. The real area tradition is to leave the routes unnamed and unrated and mostly shared between friends, although that could change if climbers in the springs ever get over Garden of the Gods and try their hand at the equally scary Pikes Peak granite. The climb Adam Hicks mentioned is above Bear Trap Ranch to the north... more >>


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block : Chopping Block : Baba Cool (5.9+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 29, 2005

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Comments: Beware as all of the bolts on this route are loose and can't be tightened. Why hasn't the Coalition fixed this one? This does not make sense to me as there are very new Fixe Open Shuts and bolts for the anchors.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Chopping Block : Chopping Block : The Great Chimney AKA The G... (5.8)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 29, 2005

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Comments: Great route if you don't mind wide cracks. A must do for the trad climber!


Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Cracked Canyon : Air Arete (5.10 X)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 29, 2005

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Comments: The climb was originally free soloed, then a bolt was added which has since been chopped. A bold lead (free solo really) considering there is gear only for the first few feet and the last few feet and the difficult sections are in between.


Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Cracked Canyon : Pirouette (5.7)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 29, 2005

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Comments: The climb can be continued up and left through a chimney feature. Then find a tree with slings to rap off.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : Sheer Lunacy (5.11 C1)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 28, 2005

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Comments: Two friends and I did this route on 11/25/05. It was a great route, tons of fun, very mellow aid. There were only a few times where an aid piece was anything less than bomber.

The topo from bigwall.com worked well, however we didn't need or use any cam hooks or lowe balls. Hybrid aliens, and offset HB's were great. Fixed gear was fine...there were a few more bolts and drilled pitons than seemed necessary, though.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Abbienormal (aka Red Neck R... (5.13)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 28, 2005

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Comments: Today I began my training for the FFA of Abbienormal. I woke up at 3 am and ran 26.3 miles in the buff.At 6 am I had a teaspoon of flax seed oil for breakfast.6:01 I began my campusing session by beginning with a 4 minute hang on the bottom then up to the 7th which I did 300 pull ups on then campused back to the bottom to hang again for another 4 minutes and repeated 20 times.By 10 I meditated for 3 hours.Now I had another teaspoon of flax seed oil for lunch and am preparing to run backwards fo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 27, 2005

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Comments: So climbing up on Wind Ridge I see this huge ass cable and I'm thinkin "what the hell is that for" so I look it up. some old dude used to tight rope between there and the Bastille. I'm not aware if the cables are still there on the Bastille but if they are why not highline it?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 27, 2005

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Comments: My friend and I encountered an anchor not listed in the Falcon guide to Boulder Canyon at the top of (what the Falcon guide calls) Blacklight. Currently there are no rap rings, just the two hangers, any objections to adding chains so one may rap without [leaving] gear (as we did)?


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Dolomite Spire : Dolofright (5.11d R)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 26, 2005

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Comments: i talked to tom on the days he was bolting thisthing. he was out of his mind with fear and its attraction. he would comment on the fact that some of the holds were expanding and took a strange glee knowing it was going to bite some one in the ass. he had a concern about a possible fall on one of the pitches. a tyrolean was set up from light house to the top of dolomite tower on the day of its fa.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Hollowpoint (5.11d)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 26, 2005

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Comments: this is a jay smith route. we did it in the late 90s the same week iwas privledgedenoughto have gone with him and a guy named paul...tearre or something, up burning within about sixdays earlier.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Mistaken Identity (5.9)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 26, 2005

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Comments: No that great for gear on the last "crack" part. More like a shallow seam. Just go for it! OR head left and finnish up on the 5.7.

I like this area a lot


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Coldfusion (5.8)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 25, 2005

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Comments: Yes, J Brown...obviously they're confused about a 5.12a and a 5.8. It's a big rock, maybe you should go check it out again.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Shipyard Rock : Tsunami (5.9)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 24, 2005

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Comments: This route is a veritable wanderfest at best.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Movie Variation (5.8)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 24, 2005

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Comments: This thing kicks ass!!! Climbed it yesterday afternoon for the first time as a finish to Schoolroom West - also the first time I had climbed that route as I am a beginning trad leader working my way back up through the grades after climbing almost all sport thus far in my short climbing career. Rock quality is *** for sure on the first half of the pitch then goes to no *'s the last half as you bushwack to the belay tree. You can plug bomber gear just about anywhere in and around the dihedral.... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animal Riots Activist (5.12a)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 24, 2005

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Comments: Jug haul to V4 boulder problem. I found to best beta is high step left from the jug, left hand windmill to the low sloper/sidepull on the lip, right foot on good edge below jug, right hand backstep to postive part of the lip, match, left foot to jug, right foot flag, right hand gaston on rail then crimp it. Cut feet and swing right foot to low positive rail, shift your weight and fire to the good crimp. 5 moves. This route gave me a hard time the first time I was on it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Free Fall (5.12a)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 23, 2005

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Comments: I just climbed this today. Awesome route and my first 12a. I found the 5th bolt to be difficult to clip as well. I did notice there is a high foot out to the left (flat horizontal spot that's triangular) when you're moving into the crux. It's a pretty big foot but difficult to hold. Using it was the only way I was able to make that 5th clip.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice : Loch Vale & uphill : Necrophilia (WI4-5 M5-6 R)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 23, 2005

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Comments: A team of three climbed Broken Axes in October, maybe adding a pitch or two in the process. I know they had a somewhat exciting time on the [descent]. I think they would [recommend] rapping the route instead of walking off.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 22, 2005

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Comments: Please don't bolt the line w/ the fixed nuts, please...


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Turkey Foot Crack (5.10a)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 22, 2005

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Comments: I have to agree with Andy. Kevin replaced all the bolts on Childhood's End (nearly sixty) single-handedly, I believe. Seems like he's been around plenty long enough to size up what needs to be fixed. Kevin: your efforts are appreciated. AED: fark off.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sapper Cave : Hand Me the Canteen, Boy (5.12d)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 21, 2005

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Comments: Great route. .12d in Rifle, .12c in B.C.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Pitch Penny Boulder : Penny Pincher (V3+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Nov 21, 2005

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Comments: The problem to the right of the penny pincher is an awesome few moves. V1??? I've climbed lots of V1's and it's definately more of a hard V2. It all depends on how tall you are. And yes, plan on leaving your skin behind.


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