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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Sep 30, 2005
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Point Rank: # 73
Total Points: 6,150

361 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 4960 | Routes 344 | Areas 48 | Approach Trails | Photos 398 | Page Improvements | Comments 3749 | Posts 19 | Stars 402 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The Bastille > The Bastille - W Face > West Buttress (5.10a)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Escalar - Going straight up after the initial crux makes for an even better pitch. It might be .10a/b or so. It is well protected--better protected than going off to the left. It is also nice to do the "direct start", starting under the initial traverse at the bolt. It is not as hard as it looks especially if you are tall, but it does involve a long reach--solid 5.10. Combining these variations makes a superb, direct line up a beautiful wall.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Upper Dream Canyon > The Icon > The Mantra (5.11b)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Young Doug - Ha Ha! a lot of calf pumping here! one of the more interesting routes in the area. A route to make you think! what a concept.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower One > Superspar (5.11-)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Young Doug - I agree 100%. The roof is more difficult than Vertigo's which is maybe 10d. Even scarier is the o.w. Grand Giraffe!


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Gregory Canyon (including T... > ... > Red Wall aka Raptors in Cel... (5.10a)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: There is a more difficult start up a thin crack with crappy feet that seems obvious. Harder than 9 plus, easier than .11.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Upper Dream Canyon > Oceanic Wall > Leviathan (5.11d)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Young Doug - This is a nice route, and I found the last thirty feet to be really exciting with small feet and thin holds to clip draws from! Do this one! you won't be dissappointed. Ps..Hey Ox! Whaassuupp!


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Upper Dream Canyon > Oceanic Wall > The Deep (5.11c)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Young Doug - This is another fun route. The beginning is all over the place, then you land in a cool sloper-pop-to-undercling thing crux. The upper section along with Sargasso is some of the nicest face climbing in the canyon. Yep.


Location: Colorado > South Platte > Cathedral Spires Area > Cynical Pinnacle > Center Route (5.9+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This is absolutely the best 5.9 in the state, and probably one of the best anywhere. The steep, sustained, bomber jams [couldn't] be better. The line is incredible and leads to a fantastic summit. If you have ever seen the cover of the S. Platte guide you will realize why you need to climb this route. Suck up the seemingly endless 1 hour uphill approach and jam your way to heaven!


Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > The Catslab
By: Anonymous Coward When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Mike Y. - When I showed up there this afternoon, a sign said "no tresspassing, No Rock Climbing..." 04/02/01.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flagstaff > Beer Barrel Boulder > Beer Belly aka Beached Whal... (V6)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The sit start is called Beer Belly. I don know of anyone who did it before us but since my ascent was just a few years ago thats obviously suspect.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two > Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Young Doug - Ahhh Mr Escalar was the first to mention the step down..there is a little nubbin halfway across just at the lip you can stand on if you can find it! it eliminates the need for a long stem! Sorry...didn mean to spew beta, but if you read this you are looking for it!


Location: Colorado > Denver South > Castlewood Canyon SP > Neanderthal Wall > The Way Out (5.7+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Don - The large wedge shaped block at the top of the flake is loose. My choice is to avoid the route.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > The Bowling Alley > Main Crag > Mosquito Burrito (5.8+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Again what is up with the undergrading at this site? At the very least, even by Eldo standards this is 5.9. Very few 5.8 leaders will hike up the first 10 feet of this route without trouble. After the start, the grade is much more reasonable.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Blob Rock Area > Blob Rock > ... > P1 of Astrophysics (aka Bol... (5.10a)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: You might want to take a couple of medium-sized pieces for the 20-25 foot stretch to the anchor. By the way, what does overbolted actually mean?


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Upper Dream Canyon > Lost Angel > Divination (5.11b)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Although "fully bolted" may be close to the truth, most parties doing the whole climb may want to take a few slings and a light rack including TCUs, Friends up to #2, and a few stoppers. The last pitch is a bit more than a scramble with a 5.10a roof and a 40 foot unbolted 5.5 section. A 60 meter rope gets you back to the ground in 3 rappells


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Upper Dream Canyon > Dream Dome > Wrinkles in Time (5.9-)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Enough sandbag grades! The bottom is definitely 5.9 and the upper pitch is thin enough to easily warrant 5.8.


Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Sundance Buttress > Kor's Flake (5.7+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: A great route. Nicely exposed for a 5.7 with an exciting hand traverse (find an undercling and plug the #4 BD Camalot, then hangout and enjoy the exposure). Two roofs make this an exciting 5.7. The moves are fun, the protection ample. A #4.5 Camalot would be useful for the namesake flake. Good luck and enjoy.


Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > The Book > J-Crack Slab Area > J-Crack (5.9+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: One of the most superb and clean cracks I have done in my life! To avoid the 5.11c headwall I lead up and right from a stance and experienced an impressive run-out. Finished with the Cave Exit. Lots of fun!


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Hallett Peak > Jackson-Johnson (5.9)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Route finding in the mid section can be a problem on this one. The crux pitch is great but the bolts look like they e about to fall off under their own weight. What the guidebook doesn mention is that there are two tallus gullies close to one another. We took the wrong one which looked easier and ended up rapping. We saw many rap slings so people must get confused often. Take the first gully, even though it appears steeper!


Location: Colorado > Denver South > Castlewood Canyon SP > Bouldering problems > Inner Canyon area > The Mod Pod aka Phallic Roc...
By: Anonymous Coward When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: T Hanson - originally climbed by former Castlewood head ranger Bob Finch, who suggested it to "The Boys of The Wood": T. Hanson, S. Sills, M. Brooks, Steebo Carpenter, who polished off every contrivance on this rock. Circa mid-eighties.


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Petit Grepon > South Face (5.8)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: JBowman - One way I've used twice to get around folks _ get first position on the route from the big ledge where the real climb (in my opinion) starts: simul-climb out left up easy slabs, left around an overhang _ then pretty straight up _ then back right to the big ledge at 1/3 height. I've just always thought it better to miss the first few pitches (did them once, not that great as I recall) in order to avoid getting creamed by lightning due to getting behind slow parties. On the descent - ... more >>


Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > The Book > J-Crack Slab Area > Pear Buttress (5.8)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Escalar - I have never done this route, but I have a story about the unprotectable first 20 or 30 feet. About 20 years ago we were on our way to climb the J-Crack when someone fell off of Pear Buttress. Just before we got to the base of the route, a guy came sprinting down the trail on his way to call for a rescue. Seconds later we heard the moans of the victim who was actually chanting "ohhmmmm". We reached him a few minutes later and found out what had happened. He fell nearly 30 feet and ... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Upper Dream Canyon > Dream Dome > Wrinkles in Time (5.9-)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Shad O'Neel - I'd agree w/5.8 on the 1st pitch, 5.6 or 5.7 or the second. Definitely glory, though.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Elephant Buttresses > Third Buttress > Standard Route (5.7+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Rick - Climbed with friend Chris on 5/18/01. Chris led P1 and I led P2. Good pro everywhere, but crux is kind of funky. I just reached high, smeared, and willed myself over.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - S Buttress > The Bulge (5.7 R)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: On the second pitch it is possible to place a #4 camalot in a big hole on the face, above the end of the crack, prior to traversing left to the next belay. This provides somewhat better protection than relying on the crack below for your last piece.


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