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Member Since: Apr 8, 2009
Last Visit: Jan 2, 2018
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

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All 139 | Routes 7 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 18 | Posts 3 | Stars 104 | Ratings 7
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Bucked-Toothed Chicken-Splitter

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (20)

Trad, 130'

New Hampshire > WM: Franconia Notch > ... > 9. The Dream Wall

Oct 14, 2012

Here Come the Jugs

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (7)

Trad, 1 pitch, 75'

New Hampshire > *Whitehorse Ledge > 1. The Cosmic Crag

Aug 4, 2010

Gravitational Mass

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b (5)

Sport, 1 pitch, 50'

New Hampshire > *Whitehorse Ledge > 1. The Cosmic Crag

Aug 4, 2010

The Daytripper

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (35)

Sport, 1 pitch, 50'

New Hampshire > *Rumney > New Wave

Jun 10, 2010

Night Crawler

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (63)

Sport, 1 pitch, 40'

New Hampshire > *Rumney > New Wave

Jun 10, 2010

Post Mortem

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a (1)

Trad, 1 pitch, 120'

New Hampshire > *Cathedral Ledge > The North End

May 27, 2009


5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (60)

Trad, 2 pitches, 150'

New Hampshire > WM: North Conway > ... > The Cake Walk Area

Apr 28, 2009

Contributed Comments


Location: Washington > Central-East Cascades, Wena... > Stuart-Enchantments > Mt Stuart > The Direct North Ridge w/ G... (5.9+)
By: Annaconda When: Aug 31, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Did the Complete North Ridge on Aug 29 via the south approach/Cascadian Descent. A few notes:

1. The "Upper" north ridge is 18 pitches, and adding the "lower" north ridge to make the "Complete" (or the Direct) North Ridge means about 25 pitches of climbing and probably about 2700 feet, not 20 pitches/2000 ft as listed here - at least by my first-hand calculations and review of various guidebooks. Big day, even with 20ish pitches of those 4th-lower 5th.

2. If at ... more >>

Location: Washington > Northwest Region > Darrington > Green Giant Buttress > Dreamer (5.9)
By: Annaconda When: Jun 21, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Did this recently as my first climb in WA state. A few notes:
1. Park at 6.2 miles on the road at a clearing - it gets bad quick after that.
2. On the approach, look very carefully for the gully up to the climb - if you find yourself bushwhacking steeply through maple and devil's club, you're off track. It's a rocky tunnel through the greenery, after the first stand of evergreens on the right of the stream.
3. Definitely print the topo if you don't want to get off route. Or accept that you'll... more >>

Location: New York > Adirondacks > E: High Peaks Region > Mt Colden > Trap Dike (summer) (4th)
By: Annaconda When: Jul 20, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this 7/16/13 via the new 2011 slide at the top, which is highly recommended. Climbing shoes might be nice if you don't own approach shoes with sticky rubber. No more gear/pitons at the crux, just 20 feet or so of easy but steep steps next to the waterfall. A great 4-8 hour day from the Adirondack Loj trailhead, depending on how fast you are moving. I can't recommend this climb enough!!

Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > Triple Corners > Triple Corners Center > Skunks in the Gym (5.10c)
By: Annaconda When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: Even if the chimney is dripping, go for it anyway. The start is not too hard and bolts are just where you want them. And the upper face is always dry!

Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > The Hinterlands > The Little People (5.10b)
By: Annaconda When: Sep 24, 2012

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Comments: Well worth it if you're solid at the grade. Great position and fun moves on the upper section. I thought the thrutch to the anchors was in keeping with the rest of the climb ... makes you earn it!

Location: New Hampshire > *Cathedral Ledge > The Central Wall > Intimidation (5.10b R)
By: Annaconda When: Sep 3, 2010

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Comments: Those downclimbing moves without long-ish legs are more "steps of faith", and if you are seconding and have to unclip the pin before you do them ... definitely spicy.

Location: New Hampshire > Dartmouth/Lake Sunapee > Pickledish > Spring Morning Wall > J-Crack (5.7)
By: Annaconda When: Aug 30, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: It can be lead easily, just bring long webbing for the anchor. The first 20 feet doesn't offer much, hence the PG13, but then you clip an old pin and get a bomber cam before stepping into the crack proper. From there, very well protected.

Location: New Hampshire > Dartmouth/Lake Sunapee > Pickledish > Spring Morning Wall > Shallow Nose (5.9)
By: Annaconda When: Aug 30, 2010

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Comments: The left-most route on Spring Morning wall. Harder than it looks - bring your sticky rubber!

Location: Maine > j. The Maine Highlands (inc... > Katahdin > Chimney Pond ("South") Basi... > The Armadillo (5.7)
By: Annaconda When: Aug 20, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: You can do the climb in a day. Leaving from Roaring Brook, the trailhead for Chimney, you add 3.3 miles and 1500 ft up to the approach. If you get an early start, the 8 am cutoff is no problem (and keeps you out of the dark at the end of the day).

Location: New Hampshire > *Cathedral Ledge > Barber Wall > Final Gesture (5.8-)
By: Annaconda When: Aug 7, 2010

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Comments: For a "5.8 Awkward" outing, do Funhouse Left to Black Lung to this. The final, um, "mantle" is so awesome ... can't believe this doesn't get climbed more!!

Location: New Hampshire > *Whitehorse Ledge > 1. The Cosmic Crag > Cosmic Amazement (5.9)
By: Annaconda When: Aug 4, 2010

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Comments: This is a great climb and an awesome way to finish up the Hotter Than Hell to Inferno link-up if you are solid on 5.9 - a few steps through the woods and there it is. It also seems to be easier if you are short (!).

Location: Maine > j. The Maine Highlands (inc... > Katahdin > Chimney Pond ("South") Basi... > The Armadillo (5.7)
By: Annaconda When: Aug 4, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the excellent route description, Brian. The rangers at Chimney were very helpful in terms of beta for the approach, which is a true thrash. As for the climb, with a 60m rope it was easy to run pitch 1 and 2 together and belay on top of the Armadillo, and then do pitch 3 and 4 together and belay on top of the dihedral to split the leads nicely for equally matched climbers. Also be sure to imagine doing the entire climb in mountain boots with hemp rope, and should you be leading the cra... more >>

Location: New Hampshire > *Cathedral Ledge > The Beast Alcove and Refuse... > Alcove Cracks (5.10)
By: Annaconda When: Aug 4, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: I agree with a "PG" rating for the crack to the right: Technical 9+ with a committing step-over at the top. I have taken the fall on it and its not bad, just gets the heart rate up ...

Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > New Wave > Black Dog Crack (5.10b)
By: Annaconda When: Jun 10, 2010

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Comments: A really fun route! The 6th bolt is actually on Vallee Daze - you get a stance below the roof/crack at the top and reach around the arete to the right to clip it. Then you can step around the arete and head for the anchors, a little runout but on easy ground. Alternatively, bring a couple bigger cams to protect the top in the crack.

Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > The Parking Lot Wall > Egg McMeadows (5.9+)
By: Annaconda When: Nov 4, 2009

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Comments: Props to the first ascentionist for not overbolting the top. Always keeps me focused til I clip the anchors - a great climb!

Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > The Meadows > Holderness Corner > Holderness School Corner (5.8)
By: Annaconda When: Nov 4, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Lead this climb!! Good technique makes it a cruise.

Make sure you save your number 2 cam for the top unless you are comfortable running out 20+ feet to the anchors with marginal to non-existent pro (I placed a .75 cam and a large nut, but they were both pretty bad). You're on easier ground, but still.

Location: New Hampshire > *Whitehorse Ledge > 6. Echo Roof > Loose Lips (5.10a)
By: Annaconda When: Jun 3, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: If you are short, like me at 5'6", stepping off that block is a *literal* leap of faith ...

Location: New Hampshire > WM: Evans Notch
By: Annaconda When: May 7, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Shell Pond is a pretty neat set of crags - a few one-pitch slabs and a huge bluff 200 feet high of orange rock and overhangs. It's pretty awesome and showed few signs of development. To get there: Drive up Rt 113, weaving across the NH-ME border, until about 1/2 mile before the AMC's Cold River Campground. Turn left onto Stone House Road, cross a bridge and bear right. Drive until you see a green road gate and park on the right (in early spring you won't make it very far after the bridge due to ... more >>

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