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Member Since: Mar 29, 2008
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact AndyMac

Point Rank: # 1,230
Total Points: 570

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has AndyMac been climbing?










Contributions


All 282 | Routes 25 | Areas 12 | Photos 30 | Page Improvements | Comments 25 | Posts 108 | Stars 66 | Ratings 16

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Abrazos y Chingazos (5.11c)
By: AndyMac When: May 27, 2017

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Comments: FA: Jack Hunt and Norm Slade.

A 3 star route to 3rd bolt, the rest is as inspiring as the single, skinny, rusted link that ties the similarly rusted anchor chains together.


Location: Colorado : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Unknown (5.11-)
By: AndyMac When: May 18, 2017

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Comments: It would be worth 1 star if it had 1 more bolt up top. Don't fall near the anchor or you'll crater into the ledge. The bottom was fine and a nice, little challenge.


Location: Colorado : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Schizoid Way (5.12a)
By: AndyMac When: May 8, 2017

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Comments: There's a crack that goes up between the start of Sister and the arete. That is probably the only way this way this thing is a 12. The first bolt does very little to protect a fall if you start on SoM, which is how I did it.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Sunny and Steep : Steep Thrills (5.12a) : Photo
By: AndyMac When: May 2, 2017

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Comments: is she in tennies? I guess she's just out on a little 5.12 hike. nice!


Location: Colorado : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Mysterious Redhead (5.11a)
By: AndyMac When: May 1, 2017

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Comments: Funny, every single pic is NOT of Mysterious Redhead (named after the would be 4th bolt that was lost in the chokecherries).
No use trying to make this route "Morning Glory", post your sandbags on that page.
It is humorous that BD wanted a ban as he's bolted 4 or 5 routes in there a few years back.


Location: Australia : The Grampians : Mount Stapylton : Hollow Mountain
By: AndyMac When: Sep 29, 2016

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Comments: It would be nice to move this area out of Mt Staplyton being they are basically 2 separate areas.


Location: Australia : The Grampians : Summer Day Valley
By: AndyMac When: Sep 16, 2016

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Comments: As of Aug 2016 the east side (back wall) of the formation is closed due to the extensive bush fires in 2014


Location: Colorado : Pagosa Springs : V-Mountain aka V Rock : Piece Of Cake (submitted as... (5.11+)
By: AndyMac When: May 6, 2016

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Comments: So, about this being "almost certain", I just had a conversation with the real first ascensionist.
Piece Of Cake, 12a, onsight FA by Joel Schiavone in ~1991.


Location: Colorado : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : No Passion for Fashion (5.11b/c)
By: AndyMac When: Apr 22, 2016

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Comments: Watch out for the climber eating chollas when lowering.


Location: Colorado : Pagosa Springs : Photo
By: AndyMac When: Mar 25, 2016

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Comments: This ledge is where Almost Certain starts.


Location: Colorado : San Luis Valley : Rock Garden : Pumping Pockets (5.11d)
By: AndyMac When: Jan 31, 2016

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Comments: As of May 2014, there is a nice 2 bolt anchor to finish this fun route up. Thanks to all that came out to work on Peni and RG for the 2014 Peni Anchor Replacement.


Location: Colorado : San Luis Valley : Rock Garden : Otto (5.9+)
By: AndyMac When: Sep 12, 2015

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Comments: Now 4 bolts, but the new first bolt was a total botch job and is only there to break your ankles (thanks for cold chiseling the old bolt off so the hole can't be reused as well!). Bring a stick clip up the slab to clip the 2nd bolt and keep this good route as fun as it should be. Was formerly a 3 star route.


Location: Colorado : Pagosa Springs : V-Mountain aka V Rock : Piece Of Cake (submitted as... (5.11+)
By: AndyMac When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: The big/middle crack at the very bottom needs a #5 or larger to protect. We built an anchor just right of the climb, sorta above that crack, for the money pitch that is AC.

Gear: singles 00 BD-#2 with doubles or triples of #0.3-#0.5 and stoppers. Don't protect the "A" at about 1/3 height (~3' section), it has a clear fracture at the bottom and perfect gear just below that. Take the grade as a guess as I'm far from a crack climber, it's definitely 5.11, could be a little... more >>


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : The Balcony : Angry Sea Bass (5.9)
By: AndyMac When: May 30, 2015

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Comments: the only route i've climbed at el rito without biners to lower, FYI


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Super Slab : Clast Action (5.9)
By: AndyMac When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: 7th bolt needs some love. post up if you beat me to it


Location: Colorado : Pagosa Springs : V-Mountain aka V Rock : Rotten Crotch (5.10-)
By: AndyMac When: Nov 14, 2014

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Comments: As of Nov. '14, there are new chains for the anchor thanks to Jesse.


Location: Colorado : San Luis Valley : Photo
By: AndyMac When: Dec 6, 2013

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Comments: Not the Blanca Massif.

L->R: Broken Hand, Pico Asilado, Music, Tijeras, and Cleveland. The distinct "Heart and Eagle" is right above the power pole on the right.


Location: Mike Cherneski : SLV Climbs : Photo
By: AndyMac When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: this is not the Terror (.11c) this is the Reckoning (.12a?)


Location: South America : Peru : Cordillera Blanca : Photo
By: AndyMac When: May 31, 2013

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Comments: Chacraraju!!!!!


Location: Colorado : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : The Klettergarden : Giant Boulder Uphill From M... : Immortality (V8)
By: AndyMac When: Sep 27, 2012

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Comments: FA Phillip Benningfield, que no?


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Photo
By: AndyMac When: Feb 10, 2012

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Comments: Not the Nagos!! Of course the water works are going to start after a loss of this magnitude.


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : San Juans : Dallas Peak : East Face/Dallas Peak (5.3)
By: AndyMac When: Aug 7, 2011

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Comments: 2- #3 Camalots is all I should have brought and alpine draws. I climbed straight up to avoid the wandering 3rd class stuff that caused the rope to knock rocks on my belayer, better line, too.


Location: Colorado : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Dynosaur (5.12c)
By: AndyMac When: Apr 21, 2011

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Comments: Does this route start from the block out left? Is it Dyno-soar?


Location: Colorado : San Luis Valley : Alamosa Canyon : Boulder City : Pick-pocket (V3)
By: AndyMac When: May 2, 2010

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Comments: Sten, the CO bouldering guide is always wrong, at least when it comes to Boulder City.
A sit-start was added at V3/4 starting in a left undercling and a right mono.


Location: Colorado : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Huecos Rancheros (5.9+)
By: AndyMac When: Mar 29, 2008

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Comments: We had a significant discussion about the routes on the Hueco Wall. I believe Hueco Mania and Huecos Rancheros are almost the same route. I know 5.8 to 5.10c but there are truly only 5 bolted routes on this wall and 6 get listed in the guide book (Bob d'Antonio). My take on the routes from left to right is:
El Dedo Es La Llave (5.10)
Ranck E (5.10b or -)
Nueve a Seis (5.9 or 9+)
Hueco Mania (5.8)(variation on huecos just left of Rancheros)
Huecos Rancheros (5.10c if you avoid Hueco Mania)
Pum... more >>


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