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Member Since: Mar 29, 2008
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,383
Total Points: 601

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 312 | Routes 26 | Areas 12 | Approach Trails | Photos 31 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 29 | Posts 115 | Stars 74 | Ratings 23
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado > San Luis Valley > Penitente Canyon > Penitente - Inner Canyon > Concupiscent Curds (5.10+)
By: AndyMac When: Jan 7, 2018

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Comments: You clip the 1st bolt off the rock at the base of the route and the 2nd from a bomber pocket with your waist at the 1st bolt. There should never be groundfall potential on this route. There's 4 bolts, and the route is just over 6m tall, how could route not be G rated?!


Location: Colorado > San Luis Valley > The Quarry > Up, Up, and Ahueco (V4)
By: AndyMac When: Dec 29, 2017

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Comments: Maybe walk more than 100m from the car and spend more than a couple hours in the Quarry before thinking the first butt dragger, lowball, POS you come to is one of the best climbs anywhere. The Quarry has many, actual high quality lines. Claim an FA if you like, I personally never climbed on these, but there are established problems 50m away. Although Gill was here in the '70s or '80s and Bobby D. includes it in his guidebook, there seems to be no major interest or development until ~2008 when ... more >>


Location: Colorado > San Luis Valley > English Valley > Big Monkey Left (5.12a) > Photo
By: AndyMac When: Dec 16, 2017

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Comments: The last 2 bolts shown are on Jane. BML continues to angle left up to the "death block" rest.


Location: Colorado > Photo
By: AndyMac When: Aug 12, 2017

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Comments: North Clear Creek Falls.


Location: Colorado > San Luis Valley > Penitente Canyon > Penitente - Entrance Area > Abrazos y Chingazos (5.11c)
By: AndyMac When: May 27, 2017

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Comments: FA: Jack Hunt and Norm Slade.

A 3 star route to 3rd bolt, the rest is as inspiring as the single, skinny, rusted link that ties the similarly rusted anchor chains together.


Location: Colorado > San Luis Valley > Penitente Canyon > Penitente - Inner Canyon > Unbound (5.11+)
By: AndyMac When: May 18, 2017

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Comments: It would be worth 1 star if it had 1 more bolt up top. Don't fall near the anchor or you'll crater into the ledge. The bottom was fine and a nice, little challenge.


Location: Colorado > San Luis Valley > Penitente Canyon > Penitente - Inner Canyon > Schizoid Way (5.12a)
By: AndyMac When: May 8, 2017

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Comments: There's a crack that goes up between the start of Sister and the arete. That is probably the only way this way this thing is a 12. The first bolt does very little to protect a fall if you start on SoM, which is how I did it.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Calico Basin > Sunny and Steep > ... > Photo
By: AndyMac When: May 2, 2017

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Comments: is she in tennies? I guess she's just out on a little 5.12 hike. nice!


Location: Colorado > San Luis Valley > Penitente Canyon > Penitente - Entrance Area > Mysterious Redhead (5.11a)
By: AndyMac When: May 1, 2017

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Comments: Funny, every single pic is NOT of Mysterious Redhead (named after the would be 4th bolt that was lost in the chokecherries).
No use trying to make this route "Morning Glory", post your sandbags on that page.
It is humorous that BD wanted a ban as he's bolted 4 or 5 routes in there a few years back.


Location: Australia > The Grampians > Mount Stapylton > Hollow Mountain
By: AndyMac When: Sep 29, 2016

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Comments: It would be nice to move this area out of Mt Staplyton being they are basically 2 separate areas.


Location: Australia > The Grampians > Summer Day Valley
By: AndyMac When: Sep 16, 2016

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Comments: As of Aug 2016 the east side (back wall) of the formation is closed due to the extensive bush fires in 2014


Location: Colorado > Pagosa Springs > V-Mountain aka V Rock > Piece Of Cake (submitted as... (5.11+)
By: AndyMac When: May 6, 2016

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Comments: So, about this being "almost certain", I just had a conversation with the real first ascensionist.
Piece Of Cake, 12a, onsight FA by Joel Schiavone in ~1991.


Location: Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Road > The Gallery > Menses Prow > No Passion for Fashion (5.11b/c)
By: AndyMac When: Apr 22, 2016

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Comments: Watch out for the climber eating chollas when lowering.


Location: Colorado > Pagosa Springs > Photo
By: AndyMac When: Mar 25, 2016

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Comments: This ledge is where Almost Certain starts.


Location: Colorado > San Luis Valley > Rock Garden > Pumping Pockets (5.11d)
By: AndyMac When: Jan 31, 2016

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Comments: As of May 2014, there is a nice 2 bolt anchor to finish this fun route up. Thanks to all that came out to work on Peni and RG for the 2014 Peni Anchor Replacement.


Location: Colorado > San Luis Valley > Rock Garden > Otto (5.9+)
By: AndyMac When: Sep 12, 2015

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Comments: Now 4 bolts, but the new first bolt was a total botch job and is only there to break your ankles (thanks for cold chiseling the old bolt off so the hole can't be reused as well!). Bring a stick clip up the slab to clip the 2nd bolt and keep this good route as fun as it should be. Was formerly a 3 star route.


Location: Colorado > Pagosa Springs > V-Mountain aka V Rock > Piece Of Cake (submitted as... (5.11+)
By: AndyMac When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: The big/middle crack at the very bottom needs a #5 or larger to protect. We built an anchor just right of the climb, sorta above that crack, for the money pitch that is AC.

Gear: singles 00 BD-#2 with doubles or triples of #0.3-#0.5 and stoppers. Don't protect the "A" at about 1/3 height (~3' section), it has a clear fracture at the bottom and perfect gear just below that. Take the grade as a guess as I'm far from a crack climber, it's definitely 5.11, could be a little harder.

Considering t... more >>


Location: New Mexico > El Rito > El Rito Sport Area > The Balcony > Angry Sea Bass (5.9)
By: AndyMac When: May 30, 2015

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Comments: the only route i've climbed at el rito without biners to lower, FYI


Location: New Mexico > El Rito > El Rito Sport Area > Super Slab > Clast Action (5.9)
By: AndyMac When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: 7th bolt needs some love. post up if you beat me to it


Location: Colorado > Pagosa Springs > V-Mountain aka V Rock > Rotten Crotch (5.10-)
By: AndyMac When: Nov 14, 2014

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Comments: As of Nov. '14, there are new chains for the anchor thanks to Jesse.


Location: Colorado > San Luis Valley > Photo
By: AndyMac When: Dec 6, 2013

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Comments: Not the Blanca Massif.

L->R: Broken Hand, Pico Asilado, Music, Tijeras, and Cleveland. The distinct "Heart and Eagle" is right above the power pole on the right.


Location: The People of Mountain Proj... > Mike Cherneski > SLV Climbs > Photo
By: AndyMac When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: this is not the Terror (.11c) this is the Reckoning (.12a?)


Location: South America > Peru > Cordillera Blanca > Photo
By: AndyMac When: May 31, 2013

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Comments: Chacraraju!!!!!


Location: Colorado > Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... > The Klettergarden > Giant Boulder Uphill From M... > Immortality (V8)
By: AndyMac When: Sep 27, 2012

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Comments: FA Phillip Benningfield, que no?


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Photo
By: AndyMac When: Feb 10, 2012

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Comments: Not the Nagos!! Of course the water works are going to start after a loss of this magnitude.


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