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Member Since: Aug 1, 2011
Last Visit: 12 hours ago
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Andy Weinmann
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Total Points: 1,385

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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All 1190 | Routes 85 | Areas 24 | Photos 35 | Page Improvements 10 | Comments 161 | Posts 2 | Stars 484 | Ratings 389
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Maryland : Northwest Branch : North Bank - Crack Line Bou... : Photo
By: Andy Weinmann When: 11 hours ago

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Comments: This is closer to what I do. Still not V2, not by a long-shot.


Location: Maryland : Northwest Branch : North Bank - Chaos Roof Are... : Upstream Slab : Order (V0)
By: Andy Weinmann When: 11 hours ago

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Comments: Start as low as you can and climb up and out, avoid the holds further left on the face and keep to the crack...much more fun and challenging that way IMHO.


Location: Maryland : Northwest Branch : North Bank - Uphill Slab : 50 Foot Slab Slap (V0)
By: Andy Weinmann When: 12 hours ago

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Comments: If this is supposed to be the traverse, then many variations are possible at a variety of grades. I tend to stay on thin edges and smears and it feels V2ish most of the way.


Location: Maryland : Northwest Branch : North Bank - Chaos Roof Are... : Upstream Slab : Center Face (V3)
By: Andy Weinmann When: 15 hours ago

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Comments: Very nice line. Once you get the sequence dialed, run laps on it. Rain tends to keep this face pretty clean, helping the friction stick around.


Location: Maryland : Northwest Branch : North Bank - Chaos Roof Are... : Upstream Slab : Damn Tree (V3)
By: Andy Weinmann When: 15 hours ago

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Comments: There's more than one way to gain the crack. I start with my left on the sidepull, right on a small crimp. The key is the footwork down low. You must be very precise and commit hard to the sidepull. This problem seems to require a lot of core tension from me as well. Very challenging and you don't have a great landing so once committed you really need to go for it.


Location: Maryland : Northwest Branch : North Bank - Crack Line Bou... : Photo
By: Andy Weinmann When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Yeah you're able to make a really long move there with the feet. I'm 5'6" and can't do that. I end up smearing a knee then a foot above your #16. I also completely agree that this in not a V2. At least a 3+.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : * Adirondack Ice & Mixed : D: Keene Valley and Chapel ... : North Face of Pitchoff : Eye of the Needle (WI3)
By: Andy Weinmann When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Reasonable adventure climbing. This is the further climb right at NF of Pitchoff. It's the first large, open area on the right that you can see when you come into the valley back there. There's actually two main flows as part of this, split by a large copse of trees. The left side looked a little steeper overall but also a little thinner down low. Higher up the left side certainly improves and if you climb the right side it's probably best to traverse across to the left where th... more >>


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Pleasant Overhangs - Variat... (5.9 A3 PG13)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jul 17, 2017

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Comments: Actually this route was freed by Alex Karr and goes at 5.12b. This would be a bit right of Alex in Wonderland.


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Pleasant Overhangs - Variat... (5.9)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jul 17, 2017

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Comments: This is actually called Direct-Toe and is 5.10bR

FFA was Howard Doyle and Matt Hale


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Neck Press (5.7)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jul 17, 2017

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Comments: More like a 5.8, especially if Tomato is supposed to be an 8. Tricky crux with a few strenuous moves but great protection. The 2nd pitch is just awkward and a bit strenuous as well. Best to do early in the day.


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Burning Tendons (5.11+)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jul 17, 2017

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Comments: I wouldn't trust the bolts on this now. They look to be in pretty bad shape.


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Tomato (5.8)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jul 17, 2017

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Comments: Very nice fun line with a cool first pitch and good 2nd pitch with gear options everywhere. Honestly though, I kept waiting for the 5.8 section. Hardest part was stepping up into Gunsight to SP and traversing down so we could get into the Gunsight. If you can handjam, you'll cruise this. And if we're saying this is 5.8, then Traffic Jam and Neck Press are as well.


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Traffic Jam (5.7+)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jul 17, 2017

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Comments: Came back to this now 6 years later and with a wealth more experience behind me. This is a solid 8, especially if you don't stem off the back wall. Even with that, the moves over the small overhang are a bit reachy. Using the arête to the left will definitely help so sticking strictly to the crack line is a shade tougher. This is one of the better crack lines at Seneca where you can/need to use finger, hand, fist jams (depending on hand size).


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Morning After (5.8 PG13)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: A really fun route I've done several times but I'm surprised no one mentions the section on P2 that's PG13 and it's the crux of that pitch (~5.7ish). You're on the exposed slab up above and out of sight of the belayer. You get a pin that you can back-up with a finger-sized cam and then make a series of slabby moves for about 10' to the next reliable placement. A fall anywhere in there and you're going for a good ride...hope your belayer is ready!


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall : Team Jesus (5.10a)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: Very height related crux move. For anyone ~5'6" and under it's probably a 10a/b. Taller than that it gets easier. If you're 6'+ it probably feels 9.


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : Lower Slabs : Seldom Seen (5.7 R)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jun 12, 2017

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Comments: The pro in the lower section (the crux really) is a little thin but it's there. I recommend some brass/small stoppers. Small cams would take up space where you want your fingers. You shouldn't need anything larger than a #2 BD C4. There's also a bit of suspect rock after that initial crux corner. Altogether a very nice climb in the Slabs.


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : Lower Slabs : Unspecified hand crack (?) (5.6)
By: Andy Weinmann When: May 19, 2017

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Comments: If you're at the Slabs it's worth a quick lap or two. Decent little high-ball crack problem to learn jamming technique.


Location: Vermont : *Vermont Ice Climbing : Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 10W - The Blind Fate Area : Blue Ice Bulge (WI4-) : Photo
By: Andy Weinmann When: Mar 13, 2017

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Comments: Nice to see a good shot of this line!


Location: New York : Adirondacks : * Adirondack Ice & Mixed : D: Keene Valley and Chapel ... : Chapel Pond Canyon : Quinn the Eskimo (WI2-3)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jan 18, 2017

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Comments: I've done this twice now. A few years ago it was a bit leaner and was certainly a WI2. This year it was fat and felt more like a 3. Nice line. The lines to the right of this climb are excellent as well...and still aren't in Blue Lines 2.


Location: Virginia : Shenandoah & NW VA Region : Shenandoah National Park : Old Rag : Skyline Wall (PATC Wall) : PATC Lieback to Bombay Crac... (5.9)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Dec 29, 2016

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Comments: Definitely heady if your last "piece" was the eye-bolt. Next time I take a #6!


Location: Vermont : *Vermont Ice Climbing : Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 08E - Elephant's Head Area : Elephant's head gully (WI3-) : Photo
By: Andy Weinmann When: Dec 22, 2016

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Comments: Alternate belay/rap anchor is to the climber's left as you exit. Would be roughly in the center of the picture on the birch trees (not the small pine).


Location: Vermont : *Vermont Ice Climbing : Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 05W - Easy Gully Area : Grand Confusion (WI3) : Photo
By: Andy Weinmann When: Dec 8, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for the pic. Certainly helps to orient people and avoid (or not?) the "confusion".


Location: Maryland : Annapolis Rock : Fin Rock : Part Man, Part Monkey (5.7)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: Follows the line of right facing flakes on the left side of the Fin along the descent trail.


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fern Point - Party Buttress : Biohazard (5.10a)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jun 6, 2016

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Comments: The original line keeps traversing right and finally pulls around the corner of the long roof up to a tree...somewhat dirty business, but the protection is reasonable. First few moves of the traverse are the hardest.


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : Southern Pillar : Initiation (5.5 PG13)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Mar 16, 2016

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Comments: Brian,

Sorry if anything I've posted makes you feel like it's a personal attack...that was not my intention. Hate? No. God-complex? I certainly hope not.

You've put some routes on here that have helped fill out the database. Good. Thanks. That needs to happen and I'm sure people will appreciate it...I certainly do. But in my opinion you've rated those climbs (such as Initiation) highly, when really they are things that should be on here for posterity's sake (For example, you rate Ini... more >>


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