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Member Since: Aug 1, 2011
Last Visit: Mar 21, 2017
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Andy Weinmann
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Point Rank: # 509
Total Points: 1,320

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Andy Weinmann been climbing?










Contributions


All 1104 | Routes 76 | Areas 24 | Photos 34 | Page Improvements 10 | Comments 145 | Posts 2 | Stars 449 | Ratings 364
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Vermont : *Vermont Ice Climbing : Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 10W - The Blind Fate Area : Blue Ice Bulge (WI4-) : Photo
By: Andy Weinmann When: Mar 13, 2017

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Comments: Nice to see a good shot of this line!


Location: New York : Adirondacks : * Adirondack Ice & Mixed : D: Keene Valley and Chapel ... : Chapel Pond Canyon : Quinn the Eskimo (WI2-3)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jan 18, 2017

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Comments: I've done this twice now. A few years ago it was a bit leaner and was certainly a WI2. This year it was fat and felt more like a 3. Nice line. The lines to the right of this climb are excellent as well...and still aren't in Blue Lines 2.


Location: Virginia : Shenandoah National Park : Old Rag : Skyline Wall (PATC Wall) : PATC Lieback to Bombay Crac... (5.9)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Dec 29, 2016

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Comments: Definitely heady if your last "piece" was the eye-bolt. Next time I take a #6!


Location: Vermont : *Vermont Ice Climbing : Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 08E - Elephant's Head Area : Elephant's head gully (WI3-) : Photo
By: Andy Weinmann When: Dec 22, 2016

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Comments: Alternate belay/rap anchor is to the climber's left as you exit. Would be roughly in the center of the picture on the birch trees (not the small pine).


Location: Vermont : *Vermont Ice Climbing : Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 05W - Easy Gully Area : Grand Confusion (WI3) : Photo
By: Andy Weinmann When: Dec 8, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for the pic. Certainly helps to orient people and avoid (or not?) the "confusion".


Location: Maryland : Annapolis Rock : Fin Rock : Part Man, Part Monkey (5.7)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: Follows the line of right facing flakes on the left side of the Fin along the descent trail.


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fern Point - Party Buttress : Biohazard (5.10a)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jun 6, 2016

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Comments: The original line keeps traversing right and finally pulls around the corner of the long roof up to a tree...somewhat dirty business, but the protection is reasonable. First few moves of the traverse are the hardest.


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : Southern Pillar : Initiation (5.5 PG13)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Mar 16, 2016

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Comments: Brian,

Sorry if anything I've posted makes you feel like it's a personal attack...that was not my intention. Hate? No. God-complex? I certainly hope not.

You've put some routes on here that have helped fill out the database. Good. Thanks. That needs to happen and I'm sure people will appreciate it...I certainly do. But in my opinion you've rated those climbs (such as Initiation) highly, when really they are things that should be on here for posterity's sake (For example, you rate Ini... more >>


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : V-3 (5.7)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: Anyone ever go out right as you enter the V? I moved up in the slot then stepped out to the ledge on the right. Pondered moving back in to the V-slot but decided to climb the steep slab/arête instead. Heady, but fun.


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Jankowitz-Kamm (5.5) : Photo
By: Andy Weinmann When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: Breakneck. J-K cuts left to Windy Corner from the top of Breakneck's P2, which is above John where the block juts out left.

A 48" sling on one of the trees wasn't too bad on the drag...a Revolver biner certainly helps with that too.


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Breakneck (5.6)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: I'd put a PG rating for gear on this unless you bring big gear like a #4 and/or #5 cam. Some of the rock seems questionable down low where you'd like to get a placement. Definitely climbing above your gear on this to better placements.

Also, linking P1 and P2 is a good option if you can manage the drag.


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : Lower Slabs : Dirty Rat (5.7)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: Dunno if this has been climbed more or what but it wasn't licheny or dirty this past weekend. Ted and I both led it and both followed up it and it's a nice fun route with good pro. A few loose chunks in the crack to look out for but otherwise good.


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Jankowitz-Kamm (5.5)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: Kelly's got the description right for Breakneck. Jankowitz-Kamm is a variation to Breakneck that starts at the end of P2, right where the big corner ends. The original line of Breakneck continues up and a bit right to the top of the Cockscomb. J-K has one bit of 5.5 moves in a little hand-crack section whereas Breakneck is 5.6 with some spaced gear (if you don't take a #4 or 5).

The two-bolt anchors for Cockfight (5.9, mixed) are about 15-20' left along the J-K route.


Location: Tennessee : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall West : Quick an' Dirty (5.8+)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Oct 13, 2015

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Comments: Cleaned out this corner the other day...I can see how it would be considered dirty if it's been awhile since anyone climbed it. Tricky move in the corner on good pro about 1/3 up seemed to be the crux. Good moves, pro and nice rock.


Location: Tennessee : Sunset Park : Sunset North : Copperhead (5.7+)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Oct 13, 2015

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Comments: Better to rap from the anchors to climber's right atop the neighboring climb. Nothing larger than a #1 C4 needed.


Location: New Hampshire : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : Mt. Webster - Winter Ice & : Horseshoe Gully (WI2-) : Photo
By: Andy Weinmann When: Oct 2, 2015

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Comments: Nice early season shot. I've only seen it much later and with a lot of snow burying a lot of that ice.


Location: Europe : Norway : Uksedal (Uskedalen)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Oct 1, 2015

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Comments: The guidebook is available, only in Norwegian at www.bergen-klatreklubb.no

There's a really nice campground right in town that wasn't too expensive. They have bathrooms with coin operated showers, a washroom for dishes and laundry, a BBQ area, a small shop (that sometimes stocks the guidebook!), etc. Bring as much food and supplies with you as possible as stuff is expensive in Norway. You can also backcountry camp at numerous places closer to the crag as long as you're out of sight of a hou... more >>


Location: Maryland : Sugarloaf Mountain : Middle Earth : Butterfingers (5.8)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Sep 28, 2015

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Comments: Committing, awkward and a little burly, hence my "+"...on the upper side of 8. The gear is good but it's not really obvious what you have to do to pull through the moves at the roof. I think different sized people will handle this differently. Def do as Phil suggests for the start so you get some gear before the arête.


Location: Europe : United Kingdom : Scotland : North West Highlands : Old Man of Stoer, Lochinver : The Old Man of Stoer (5.8)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Sep 21, 2015

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Comments: A couple notes. Take a rack to 3" for the regular route. If you want to do something different from the original route (as in the E1 route that starts from the end of the original route's start) take doubles of 2-3" cams. A 4" cam isn't necessary but would not go unused. Many variations are possible to the original route to make the pitches after P1 a bit harder or more interesting. The hand crack above the belay through the overhangs that is described here as P2, for instance goes at about ... more >>


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - East Face : Southeast Corner : Ladybug (5.9)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Sep 21, 2015

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Comments: Kevin,

For sure on using C3s there (probably didn't have them a few years ago when I created this entry). I think I've gotten a good nut to there too...just had to be creative. An attentive belayer there would be very good :-)

-Andy


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Gory Thumb (5.9 PG13)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: The boulder problem at the bottom can be protected with a nut or micro cam but you have to take the time to finagle it in. The upper crux can be protected with a #3 or #4 brass offset and the same size RP/IMP (sorry, it was one of those two sizes). I found the crux to be rather a technical sequence, heady and reachy and certainly not a one-move wonder (I'm 5'6")...and there's an ankle-breaking ledge below you. After the crack it's smooth sailing.

Recommend linking to P2 of Raunchy... more >>


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : Southern Pillar : Gebhardt-Duffy (5.7+)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: The best way to descend this is via a new rap line that was installed as part of some new route development inside Great Chimney.

1.) Locate the anchors atop Craving for Pink/Hidden Gem on the east face of the top pillar and rap down to a two-bolt anchor on a big ledge, just north of the large pine tree (top of Window on the West and Back-scratcher). The lower station is just below the 4th pitch of G-D, but off to climber's left a bit.

2.) Rap down into Great Chimney and find a two bolt-a... more >>


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : Southern Pillar : Great Chimney (5.5 PG13)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: Seems that this is being used from time to time as a descent route for Gebhardt-Dufty. About halfway up (below the steeper chimney) is a twin-forked tree. Straight up above this tree are three new routes that have recently been done. Just below the tree on the wall is a new two-bolt anchor that will get you to the ground with a 60m rope.


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : Southern Pillar : Initiation (5.5 PG13)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: Perhaps in 1971 this was a clean climb and decent. I wouldn't recommend the first pitch to my worst enemy. Climb Great Chimney or hike up the east side of the SoPill to the ledge beneath P2 instead. Second pitch looks doable. Walk-off at the top.


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : Southern Pillar : Craving fo Pink (5.7)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: Some loose rock in a few places, though we removed a lot of it. Bolts at the top need to be reworked as the right bolt stud is too short for the hanger and nut.


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