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Rock Climbing Photo: The Nose, Santa Barbara


Member Since: Apr 7, 2007
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact andy patterson

Point Rank: # 224
Total Points: 2,774
Last Year: 155
Last 30 Days: 2
109 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has andy patterson been climbing?










Contributions


All 1193 | Routes 107 | Areas 24 | Photos 157 | Page Improvements | Comments 559 | Posts 6 | Stars 269 | Ratings 71
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering
By: andy patterson When: May 30, 2015

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Comments: I've definitely scoped the area between Windermere and The Brickyard. It's cool, remote, and adventurous—but most of the rock is pretty bad. Sure, there are boulder problems to be had, but I just couldn't find anything that would get me psyched to come back. I'm sure Kelly has explored more than me, however. Perhaps he knows where the goods are.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Irene Jansen (V5 R)
By: andy patterson When: May 28, 2015

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Comments: I never thought it was bold either. You can literally step off the problem at any time. I like the start, even though it's kind of a butt-dragger, since the crux is not dabbing on the boulders below you.

Oh, and the true test for boldness is using pine cones as mountain-money.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: See the crashpad? Start DOWN and RIGHT of the pad, on the Kathy Moffat starting holds. The crux is gaining the rail. Finishing the traverse is cake.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Irene Jansen (V5 R)
By: andy patterson When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: I don't know who made the FA of the traverse. Probably some kid just goofing off. The true start——beginning from Kathy Moffat——might have been a Steve Edwards et al creation.

By the way, these problems are all listed in Ocean's Eleven, which is, last I checked, still the Definitive Tome for SB bouldering. I encourage you to go purchase a copy. It might be out of print soon, but I'm pretty sure REI and/or Mountain Air Sports carry copies.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: May 25, 2015

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Comments: Heh, heh... the way you have the camera tilted, it looks like a route!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Irene Jansen (V5 R)
By: andy patterson When: May 25, 2015

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Comments: Seth, this route has already been done (many times) and it's called Irene Jansen, and goes at V5 if you do it right. Proper beta: start low between the boulders as for Kathy Moffat, then do some funky moves to gain the rail, traverse, mantle. If you traverse R-L just from starting on the rail (that is, NOT starting all the way in the chasm from Kathy Moffat), then it's called Gilda, V1.

I'll let you change the title, but thanks for posting. It's nice to have this problem up on MP.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park : ... : Chunks O' Flesh (V1)
By: andy patterson When: May 24, 2015

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Comments: Once a year, at my wife's annual Skofield Park Birthday Bash, I jump on Chunks O' Flesh:



Can't wait till next year.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Doom Wall : Shores of Hell (5.11b)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 22, 2015

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Comments: Back when I was frequenting Mr. Lee's, this was always the warmup. I remember freezing my butt (and fingers) off every time I got on it, since it was usually the middle of November or December, and the route gets a ton of shade.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area
By: andy patterson When: Apr 18, 2015

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Comments: Mina, The Playground is located off of West Camino Cielo—not Gibraltar Road.

Personally, I'd recommend dozens of places to climb instead of The Playground, but that's just me (especially if you want Gibraltar-esque climbing). If you still want to climb Gibraltar, try hiking up Rattlesnake Canyon trail, which brings you all the way up to Gibraltar road. It's between 1 and 1 1/2 hours of hiking. Not bad, actually. A lot of climbers I know (including myself) do the "long" approach for the train... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c) : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: I remember belaying from it, actually. It was in a pretty bad state at the time.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Apr 11, 2015

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Comments: Love it. This was one of my first problems. Ever. I remember watching Kelly waltz it back in 2001, before the recession, when life was good and Buffy The Vampire Slayer was still fresh in all of our minds.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 4, 2015

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Comments: To aid in this discussion, can someone (Matthew? Jon? Sean?) provide a photograph with some nifty photoshop indications of where the new and old bolts are? This could prove to be an instructive debate—especially if there are salient visual aids. I'm only generally aware of where the new bolt line runs. I'd love to see the whole shebang from a good perspective. I think everyone would.

Thanks in advance! I don't have the wherewithal to get down there any time soon.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 2, 2015

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Comments: So the 5.12 face was the original route bearing the name Goulara?

That's actually very interesting—-I didn't know that. I was truly under the impression the arete was the original line. I do recall the last two bolts being relatively far RIGHT of the arete, which is why I always led out on to the face for that section. At the very least, I'm learning some good history from this discussion.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 2, 2015

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Comments: I'm guessing they bolted (or intended to bolt) the direct line up the face, the one that goes at somewhere around 5.12. Matt, is this what you're referring to? Is it possible they misread the line and encroached on Goulara? I'm having trouble recalling exactly how far right or left the route starts. Either way, Goulara shouldn't have been touched, but it seems the 5.12 (currently unnamed) could have bolts of its own, since in my memory it was substantially to the right of Goulara. Am I way off b... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Painted Cave : ... : SickyGnarGnar (V4)
By: andy patterson When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments: Way to put this area on the database! It's a modest boulder, to be sure, but worth noting. Jake Novotny and I spent several sessions in 2012 doing every possible problem we could think of on that boulder (including some R to L traversing nonsense that was fairly hard), so while I can't claim we did EXACTLY what you did, I'm 79% certain we did that problem. I'm not gonna push the issue, and you can name it whatever you want. What's more, someone probably did it before us, too.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Zombie Armageddon (a.k.a. D... (V10)
By: andy patterson When: Mar 11, 2015

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Comments: Ah well. It's a chossy boulder to begin with. I'm optimistic you can start from the far left sit——it'll just be that much more demanding. I haven't been up there in ages, but my guess the holds on that rig have gotten much more weathered and plastered with chalk and hand-smarm. I guarantee more holds will break, too...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Lower Mission Canyon / Seve... : Seven Falls Area : Leviticus (5.12d)
By: andy patterson When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Don't worry, the first jam isn't the crux. This route has seen multiple breakages (read: a breakage every time someone tries to redpoint it), but it still holds true at the grade.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Good shot of my beautiful wife. I can't wait till my infant son grows up and finds this picture. Mama has guns...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Toxic Waste Wall
By: andy patterson When: Feb 25, 2015

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Comments: Besides the brush growing mostly back, I don't have any updates on the climbing at Toxic and Upper. Some buddies of mine recently headed up to Upper Gibraltar and had a good time, so I'm going to assume that things are at least climbable.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery : Cookies and Crimps (V4-)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 25, 2015

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Comments: Yeah, it does up the difficulty to about Sucker Punch.

Bernd did that with me a few seasons ago. He didn't even try the stand first, in my memory. Just went straight to the sit. Thanks for cleaning it up, Tim. I'm psyched that people are still going to the Creamery.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery : Whiskey and Success (V9)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: After talking to Thomas, the stand-start to this problem seems to be in the V11 range. No one has repeated it, so I can't confirm anything. I've worked the problem a bit, and while I haven't sent this or any other V11, I do find that grade to be appropriate—judging from my experience on other problems. Thomas conjectured that the sit-start seems to be around V12+, hence the attached grade to the problem.

Sorry for the all the disclaimers/vagueness/estimations. Thus is the prospect of grading ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Noir Boulder
By: andy patterson When: Feb 22, 2015

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Comments: Micah, I remember that as well. I think it was a traversing problem, but I think it was up the hill at Upper Noir (I could totally be wrong). If you go there, you can find a nice little cave that has an obvious sit-start with an obvious L-R trend, finishing on a crux "up" move. I recall Mr. Dusatko and company meandering up there and establishing problems, and while I think they rated said problem on the steeper side of things, I believe It clocks in around V6 or V7. Hard, but not V10. I should ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Potter's Point : Ms. T (5.8)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 11, 2015

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Comments: Jan, I'm not surprised Simpson epoxies work well for you. I've never placed a climbing anchor using a Simpson product, but I've placed COUNTLESS other anchors supporting substantial weight using Simpson epoxy (background: I'm an ornamental ironworker, and I make lots of heavy iron things that hang off buildings). I've noticed that Simpson epoxy performs very well in porous/chossy contexts, mostly because the epoxy is pre-mixed BEFORE it goes in the hole—at least when I use it. Also, once the ep... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Potter's Point : Ms. T (5.8)
By: andy patterson When: Feb 6, 2015

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Comments: I agree with Steve. I have been replacing bolts here and there as time and money allows, but it's a big job. Steve, my opinion on glue-ins in SB is somewhat mixed. Choss is still choss, and I've seen massive glue-ins simply attach themselves to the sandy crud in to which they've been placed, and after a few months they start wiggling. It happened at San Ysidro a few years back. Totally contextual. I think the Rawls are by far the easiest, most versatile, cheapest, and all-around best bolts for S... more >>


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Lethal Rock : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: This is the perfect Steve shot. Style supreme.


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