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Rock Climbing Photo: The Nose, Santa Barbara


Member Since: Apr 7, 2007
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
Contact andy patterson

Point Rank: # 224
Total Points: 2,774
Last Year: 155
Last 30 Days: 2
109 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has andy patterson been climbing?










Contributions


All 1193 | Routes 107 | Areas 24 | Photos 157 | Page Improvements | Comments 559 | Posts 6 | Stars 269 | Ratings 71
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Hat Creek Cattle Company : Vivendo (V3)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: Dean (aka Deano El Privetto) does this problem in a unique and very fun way: start the problem via the sit-start, climb to the big ramp, muster some momentum, and do a sideways leap to the massive jug out left. Super fun to watch.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Rico Suave Buttress : Pockets of Resistance (5.12a)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 22, 2015

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Comments: Man, you WV folks don't know how good you have it (or maybe you DO). This rock blew my mind. Excellent, excellent climb.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fern Point - Party Buttress : Premarital Bliss (5.10a)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 22, 2015

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Comments: I climbed this the day after I got engaged. I heard a story from some locals that one of the first ascentionists got married after establishing this line, and never climbed again.

Is it true? Anyone?

Well, I still climb...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Big Sur : Salmon Creek
By: andy patterson When: Oct 15, 2015

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Comments: Completely worthwhile area. Fantastic hang, fantastic swimming, and possibility for some fantastic problems. Definitely draws a bevy of people, so don't expect tranquility. I wouldn't call it a destination solely for climbing, but it's good fun to pack a picnic, beat the heat in the swimming holes, and climb the odd problem.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Hat Creek Cattle Company : No Pigs For Rent (V8+)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 13, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the second ascent, Tim!

Yeah, now that I have some distance, I'm feeling the V8 grade. It was a hard nut to crack, but it really only took a session or two to sort everything out (including cleaning). I did Bandito a few weeks ago, which I consider benchmark V9 for SB, and this line doesn't feel as hard.

Tim, your beta sounds solid. I tried that method, but it didn't quite suit me. Either way, aren't those bottom moves insane! Ah, so good. Go back, please. There are some great line... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Deep Search (V6)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 8, 2015

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Comments: Top it out once so you don't have to do it ever again.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Serenity Crack (5.10d PG13) : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 7, 2015

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Comments: Ha! The positioning of the camera makes this look like a steep pitch on El Cap.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Bandito (V9)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 30, 2015

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Comments: Goshdarnit. Unbelievable problem. I tried it sporadically over the last couple of years, but I finally dedicated a couple of sessions this season, and finished it off. Good, brutal fight. I actually set up a "bump-machine" on my home wall to train for the consecutive lefthand bumps. It worked. Totally nerdy.

If you're stranded on a desert island, and you only have this problem to do for the rest of eternity, then you're in luck. Good job Tim and Logan!


Location: NM : Gallup Area : Mentmore : New Side : The Monolith : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Sep 23, 2015

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Comments: This photo wins the internet for me today. Absolutely awesome.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Munson Boulders : Smugglers Run (V3-4)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 9, 2015

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Comments: Yeah, Jon makes a strong point. That said, way to be psyched. I'd hate for FA-fever diminish any enthusiasm for reinvigorating old problems. The usual suspects of Ojai climbing have tapped many of the obvious areas, but that doesn't mean they aren't worth revisiting.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Munson Boulders
By: andy patterson When: Sep 9, 2015

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Comments: Way to go, guys. I've always wondered about those little blocs. I think I recall Darren Odgers rummaging around there a few years ago, but I can't be sure. You could ask him. If anyone did climb there in the past, it was probably him.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag : Camelbak Crack (5.8+ R) : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: These little crags scattered above Ren Man definitely have some interesting and—from time to time—good rock. The main problem is the massive amounts of detritus that shower down on those below you when you scramble around.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Hat Creek Cattle Company : No Pigs For Rent (V8+)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: Grading new problems is always hard. Especially when they are totally new, and you have to clean all the holds, work out the moves, and just plain figure out how the line goes. I'd love some more folks to try this problem, because it's really, really good. Probably about V4/5 from the stand.

The super low start is at least as hard as Dancing Outlaw and She Made Me Do It (both of which have some stretched out, core-intensive moves), and perhaps even a grade harder. Also, the rock was still clea... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i...
By: andy patterson When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: Jeff,

I am entirely remiss in not retrieving those lines. I made the HUGE tactical error of starting some projects up there right before Oliver was born, and I had to leave some unfinished projects. I do get up Rattlesnake nowadays, but my timeframes up there are few and far between, and of a shorter duration. I'm hoping to get all the nasty "project hardware" outta there soon.

Thanks for the patience!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park : ... : Well-Coiffed (my name, perh... (V6-7)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 6, 2015

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Comments: For the last ten years (how long have I been climbing at Skofield...?) I kinda-sorta-thought there might be a nice burly sit start on the far left of the Vanity Boulder. I heard some unsubstantiated reports that there was, in fact, a V6ish problem. I can't recall who spread that rumor.

During a hot week in August, 2015, I satisfied my curiosity and figured out an excellent sequence of moves, confirming that yes, with a little boredom and local spirit, you can teach old dogs new tricks. I'm qui... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : West Nile Boulder (aka The ... : Skin 'O My Teeth (V9)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 14, 2015

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Comments: Here's a not-so-incredible piece of footage, filmed on my phone. You can climb this sequence a bunch of different ways, but they all feel the same: hard. Pardon my grunting; aging climbers like myself have to try harder than the all the youngsters.

m.youtube.com/watch?v=lzvKzLt-...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Zombie Armageddon (a.k.a. D... (V10)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 4, 2015

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Comments: I second that: the new breakage makes the opening moves harder, but doesn't up the overall difficulty too much. It does, however, make this awesome line even more awesomer [sic]! The old sequence used a huge flexing jug; now it passes through series of nice, medium-sized flat edges. I went up to ZA after a long hiatus from the Brickyard (read: it's been years), and had loads of fun. The "new" start makes this problem MUCH better, in my opinion.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Dissing Euros (V6)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: Okay, so this thread REALLY doesn't need more talk about grades, starting-holds, and other quibbling, but I'm a new dad, and since it's hard to get out very often, I find myself trolling the internet. So here goes:

Mary, Oliver (my 9 month son), and I camped out at Pine Mountain this last weekend, and I did a couple of laps on Dissing Euros "for old time's sake". For the left hand on the sit-start, I used what will hereafter be known as the "Sean Crozier Crimp", referred to in an earlier post. ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Dirt Bag (V2)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: I absolutely love this problem. I do it multiple times whenever I'm at Pine Mountain. This is the also the first post-birth problem my wife did. Mary had always said that she should be able to do Dirt Bag off the couch, so when we were at Pine with our 8 month son, I put her up to it. Sure enough...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : La Cumbre Peak : Earthwatch Wall : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Jun 25, 2015

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Comments: First Ascent: Father Junipero Serra, circa 1772


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Softly, Softly (V6)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 16, 2015

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Comments: Often overlooked, but high-quality. Almost as good as Crystal Groove.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Jun 16, 2015

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Comments: Classy place, the Tor! We need to revive the idea of opening a casino there.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Matilija Wall
By: andy patterson When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: TIm (and everyone), I would check with the Ventura County Assessor Office, which is located here:

800 S Victoria Ave, Ventura, CA 93009

That's my best guess. A few months ago, my brother had to determine some property lines by his house for a construction project, and they referred to the county assessor. I believe they will have maps and records for public viewing. I would LOVE to go there myself, but again, I think someone who lives down there should lead the charge.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Matilija Wall
By: andy patterson When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: I've been getting pings from various climbers over the last year, and it seems people actually do want to get up there, but it's going to have to be someone other than me spearheading the effort——I just had a kid, and time is at a premium in my life. I'll lend a hand when I can, but I hope local Ojai and Ventura climbers can make a dent. The first order of business is finding a LEGAL path of travel, then sucking it up and diving in to the chaparral.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery : General Electric (V5)
By: andy patterson When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: Jason Kamen and his crew did a fair amount of cleanup on this boulder some time before 2014, but they were eventually stymied by the sheer amount of poison oak. Jason told me that he was psyched by the look of the stone, but that he and his buddies didn't climb that many problems.


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