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Rock Climbing Photo: The Nose, Santa Barbara


Member Since: Apr 7, 2007
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
Contact andy patterson

Point Rank: # 224
Total Points: 2,774
Last Year: 155
Last 30 Days: 0
109 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1193 | Routes 107 | Areas 24 | Photos 157 | Page Improvements | Comments 559 | Posts 6 | Stars 269 | Ratings 71
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : The Press (V7+)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: That makes sense to me, Phil.

I also wonder if bouldering grades could be viewed similarly to campusing moves. The difference in difficulty between 1-5-6 and 1-4-7 is significant, and there is also room within each move for a range of difficulty. For example, there are times when 1-5-6 might feel hard for me, and other times where it feels easy. But it's still 1-5-6. The jump to 1-4-7 requires a substantial jump in power.

But back to slash/ + grades. I'... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : The Press (V7+)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 5, 2016

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Comments: I too would like the V7 grade explained to me. I was told Wills did this first (I could be wrong, but that was what I heard), and, just like King Dino, it felt super hard for V7. So hence the +. Consider it an editorial mark.

That said, when I sent I did refine some beta that made it much more feasible, and bring the grade in to the 7-ish range. Also, Tim and Ray agreed that it was V7 with a caveat for conditions.

Point taken with the slash/+ grading, Micah. However, since MP is a crowd-base... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery : Whiskey and Success (V9)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 18, 2016

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Comments: Grade Update:

In recent months, the left starting crimp on Whiskey has been "improved" to such a degree as to drop the grade to somewhere around V9. A number of repeats have confirmed this grade change. The problem is no less quality than before, but the stoutness has dropped.

I'm not pointing fingers or ranting; we've always known that SB holds have a way of changing from aggressive brushing. But I will say that ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 13, 2016

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Comments: As usual rp91320, thanks for posting so many photos of SB (and Ventura) climbing!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Lower Cold Springs Canyon : ... : Held In Contempt (V7-8)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 12, 2016

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Comments:



Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Lower Cold Springs Canyon : ... : Prison Break (V5)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 12, 2016

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Comments:



Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : The Press (V7+)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 8, 2016

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Comments: I'm not embarrassed to admit it: over the last sixteen years of visiting Pine Mountain, I have tried in vain to do this problem. Early on I had the psyche. Early on I had the optimism. But every time I stepped up, I slithered down the rock in shame and defeat.

It wasn't long before I just avoided it altogether. Gyroscope had always been much easier for me anyway, and it was a good ego-boost. Finally, one beautiful October afternoon, Tim King, Ray Martin,... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Terrible Angel (5.14+) : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Sep 26, 2016

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Comments: This photo is so completely awesome.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Keys to the Kingdom (V7-8)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Saw the vid of this one. Very cool. Psyched to have another gem in this zone.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Finn Goes To Kindergarten (V7)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Old shot of Bernd starting Finn Goes To Kindergart...
Old shot of Bernd starting Finn Goes To Kindergarten.


Rock Climbing Photo: Another old shot... I get in to the biz of the pro...
Another old shot... I get in to the biz of the problem. Tricky, high, and thoughtful crux.



Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park : ... : Verisimilitude (V10)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 26, 2016

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Comments: Duke. You're on fire.

Good moves, eh? When the conditions are right, it just works perfectly. When I sent, it felt in control and straightforward—so much so that I was worried we were way off on the grade. But I went back later that week during the heat of the day and couldn't pull off the ground.

So good. Unbelievable line, in my opinion.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Noir Boulder : Not Without Hope (V11)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 25, 2016

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Comments: Nice. That was scholarly argued, Pablo. What did you think of So I Did It? That press move out left? Awesome.

I agree about the ratings for Way of the Samurai and So I Did It. I should also note that even though Bernd thought ACL was very soft if it was a 10, I happened to think it WAS super hard. Different styles abound.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Ghost Town (a.k.a. winderme...
By: andy patterson When: Aug 23, 2016

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Comments: This is interesting. During my interactions with the manager of the adjacent ranch, I sensed that he felt in charge of the area, if not the actual legal guardian. Basically, he simply asked that I keep a pleasantly low profile and don't cause a ruckus. My guess is that he always assumed all that land was his to manage. The map seems to dictate otherwise.

However, I would still proceed with caution, since it would suck for an argument to break out, no matter how in the right... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Noir Boulder : Not Without Hope (V11)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 22, 2016

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Comments: Nicely done, Pablo. Bernd and I fell a bunch on that last move. In fact, Bernd sustained a shoulder-wrenching injury falling off the move to the sloper, and he almost had to get surgery! Bernd thought ACL was closer to V8 or V9, and you do get a rest on the traverse before ACL, so his (and my) best guess was V10. But we never sent, so we can't talk. For sure one of the harder traverses around.

Have you done the other hard traverse on this boulder? Or did you do all the Skof... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : Enigmatic (V10)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 14, 2016

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Comments: Never cut your hair, Duke.

Great send!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : The Kiss Off (V0)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 12, 2016

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Comments: Brian Spiering did some problems and named them (I think) back in the day. I don't remember what they were called, or their quality.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard
By: andy patterson When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: Dude. I'm psyched on more photos. Always helps.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: Extremely rad photo.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery : Whiskey and Success (V9)
By: andy patterson When: May 26, 2016

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Comments: Pablo Hammack repeated the stand-start to this problem recently, and he confirms the V11 rating. You can watch him wrestle this problem (and other gnar stuff) on YouTube. Use your computer-machine accordingly.

Historical/Technical note:

When Thomas did the FA of the stand-start to Whiskey, he finished on the holds of General Steampunk, which exit to the left of the top General Electric. Basically, General Steampunk is a somewhat harder finish variation to General Electric. GE gets a solid V5... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Noir Boulder : Way of the Samurai (V9-10)
By: andy patterson When: May 12, 2016

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Comments: Finally, some historical info on this great problem! When I finished this traverse, I thought I was the first-ascentionist. I was wrong—Jondo beat me to it. Figures. Dude cranked(s). Thanks for the vid, Garratt Wilkin (see Noir Boulder intro page: mountainproject.com/v/the-noir.... Jondo rated it V10. I'm amenable to that rating, as well as the V9+ rating. It's friggin hard either way.

I named the problem Dances With Wolves (a.k.a. The Kevin Costner Challenge), but... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Cattle Pocket and Corridors... : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: May 11, 2016

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Comments: Yup, that is the Slab Route. Mustafa climbs well to the right.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Cattle Pocket and Corridors... : ... : Rodeo Queen (5.10d)
By: andy patterson When: May 11, 2016

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Comments: I totally agree with Randy. A good number of the routes in the Corridor tout moves MUCH harder than the grade would suggest—relative to other climbs of the same grade in the Alabama Hills.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro (Upper) : Dinky Pinkies (5.10d PG13)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 30, 2016

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Comments: Nice work, Alex. I tried to start the route years ago, but there was so much PO I couldn't justify the rope contamination. Is it manageable now?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park : ... : Bacon Pancakes (V2-3)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 10, 2016

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Comments: Remarkably worthwhile, Tim. I enjoyed this problem quite a bit.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Pardon My French (V5)
By: andy patterson When: Dec 9, 2015

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Comments: Super fun dynamic line. Highly recommend it.


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