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Member Since: Apr 7, 2007
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact andy patterson

Point Rank: # 323
Total Points: 2,205

121 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has andy patterson been climbing?










Contributions


All 1204 | Routes 106 | Areas 24 | Approach Trails | Photos 157 | Page Improvements | Comments 570 | Posts 6 | Stars 269 | Ratings 72
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > Lower Mission Canyon / Seve... > Upper Theology Crag > ... > Photo
By: andy patterson When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Unforgettable move. Love that route.


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering > Pine Mountain > ... > Gardez l'eau (V5)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 17, 2017

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Comments: Best problem in that area. Utterly thrilling. Stunning position. Quality movement.


Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > Green Dome > West Face > ... > Photo
By: andy patterson When: Nov 8, 2017

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Comments: I love this. People never climb here anymore it seems, but it's such a rad place! That climb is so hard looking, by the way.


Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > San Ysidro > Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 27, 2017

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Comments: Great topo, yes, but much of it is incorrect. The actual reality of bolt placement is largely different than this topo would suggest.


Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > * Santa Barbara Bouldering > West Nile Boulder (aka The ... > Dystopia (V9)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 3, 2017

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Comments: Hey Sam, way to get psyched on this boulder. It delivers, doesn't it?

A little historical info: Thomas Townsend did this with me during the winter of 2014. He had just done Countdown to Extinction, and we were goofing off, adding eliminates, variations, etc. He didn't name it (he thought it didn't warrant "independent grade" status), but he said it felt about V9—give or take. I personally don't care if you call it Dystopia. I don't think Thomas cares either.

I&... more >>


Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > Fire Crags
By: andy patterson When: Jul 7, 2017

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Comments: Stefan, I think the route in question is an old Chris leube (sp?) route. It goes at 5.12ish. Probably towards the harder end of that scale. The opening move is quite desperate, and after that the moves stay fairly sustained, but not as bad as the start. There is a decent amount of old glue (if memory serves) on the route, and per the rock-quality of Fire Crags, holds may have changed. Expect to be confounded and frustrated by this route. I've climbed with Chris a little bit in the past, and ... more >>


Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > Panic Town
By: andy patterson When: Jun 12, 2017

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Comments: Mike, I wouldn't bring a toddler here, unless you have an extra person to watch said toddler LIKE A HAWK. There are copious amounts of poison oak near the base of the cliff, and lots of loose rock. It's not impossible to bring a toddler, but you would need to be on it (I have a toddler and I would want at least two people: one to belay, one to watch the kiddo).


Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > Gibraltar Area > Gibraltar Rock > ... > Photo
By: andy patterson When: May 11, 2017

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Comments: Il fait chaud!!!


Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > * Santa Barbara Bouldering > The Creamery > Silent Observer (V11)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 16, 2017

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Comments: Raging, Duke. Does the man-bun give you secret powers? Do tell...


Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > * Santa Barbara Bouldering > Potter's Point > ... > Arboretum - Sit (V7)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 16, 2017

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Comments: It does feel hard, doesn't it. Has a blue-collar ending, if you ask me.


Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > * Santa Barbara Bouldering > The Creamery > State of the Art (V12)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 15, 2017

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Comments: News flash: on 4/15, Pablo Hammack sent the project, calling it "In the Gnarbara". No grade as of yet. I'll let Pablo update this post as he sees fit.


Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > Renaissance Crag > Renaissance Man (5.13b/c)
By: andy patterson When: Mar 7, 2017

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Comments: Ren Man saw a second ascent this last weekend (3/4/2017). Pablo Hammack, local crusher and destroyer of all our projects, had the honor. He offered solid 5.13c for the grade.


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering > Pine Mountain > ... > The Press (V7+)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: That makes sense to me, Phil.

I also wonder if bouldering grades could be viewed similarly to campusing moves. The difference in difficulty between 1-5-6 and 1-4-7 is significant, and there is also room within each move for a range of difficulty. For example, there are times when 1-5-6 might feel hard for me, and other times where it feels easy. But it's still 1-5-6. The jump to 1-4-7 requires a substantial jump in power.

But back to slash/ + grades. I'm personally inclined to stop us... more >>


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering > Pine Mountain > ... > The Press (V7+)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 5, 2016

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Comments: I too would like the V7 grade explained to me. I was told Wills did this first (I could be wrong, but that was what I heard), and, just like King Dino, it felt super hard for V7. So hence the +. Consider it an editorial mark.

That said, when I sent I did refine some beta that made it much more feasible, and bring the grade in to the 7-ish range. Also, Tim and Ray agreed that it was V7 with a caveat for conditions.

Point taken with the slash/+ grading, Micah. However, since MP is a crowd-base... more >>


Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > * Santa Barbara Bouldering > The Creamery > Whiskey and Success (V9)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 18, 2016

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Comments: Grade Update:

In recent months, the left starting crimp on Whiskey has been "improved" to such a degree as to drop the grade to somewhere around V9. A number of repeats have confirmed this grade change. The problem is no less quality than before, but the stoutness has dropped.

I'm not pointing fingers or ranting; we've always known that SB holds have a way of changing from aggressive brushing. But I will say that the left hand crimp on this problem has been massively changed... more >>


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering > Pine Mountain > ... > Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 13, 2016

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Comments: As usual rp91320, thanks for posting so many photos of SB (and Ventura) climbing!


Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > * Santa Barbara Bouldering > Lower Cold Springs Canyon > ... > Held In Contempt (V7-8)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 12, 2016

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Comments:



Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > * Santa Barbara Bouldering > Lower Cold Springs Canyon > ... > Prison Break (V5)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 12, 2016

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Comments:



Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering > Pine Mountain > ... > The Press (V7+)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 8, 2016

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Comments: I'm not embarrassed to admit it: over the last sixteen years of visiting Pine Mountain, I have tried in vain to do this problem. Early on I had the psyche. Early on I had the optimism. But every time I stepped up, I slithered down the rock in shame and defeat.

It wasn't long before I just avoided it altogether. Gyroscope had always been much easier for me anyway, and it was a good ego-boost. Finally, one beautiful October afternoon, Tim King, Ray Martin, and I shoed up and gave it a go... more >>


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 166/Silly Rock > Owl Tor > Terrible Angel (5.14+) > Photo
By: andy patterson When: Sep 26, 2016

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Comments: This photo is so completely awesome.


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering > Pine Mountain > ... > Keys to the Kingdom (V7-8)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Saw the vid of this one. Very cool. Psyched to have another gem in this zone.


Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > * Santa Barbara Bouldering > The Brickyard > ... > Finn Goes To Kindergarten (V7)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Old shot of Bernd starting Finn Goes To Kindergart...
Old shot of Bernd starting Finn Goes To Kindergarten.


Rock Climbing Photo: Another old shot... I get in to the biz of the pro...
Another old shot... I get in to the biz of the problem. Tricky, high, and thoughtful crux.



Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > * Santa Barbara Bouldering > Skofield Park > ... > Verisimilitude (V10)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 26, 2016

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Comments: Duke. You're on fire.

Good moves, eh? When the conditions are right, it just works perfectly. When I sent, it felt in control and straightforward—so much so that I was worried we were way off on the grade. But I went back later that week during the heat of the day and couldn't pull off the ground.

So good. Unbelievable line, in my opinion.


Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > * Santa Barbara Bouldering > The Noir Boulder > Not Without Hope (V11)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 25, 2016

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Comments: Nice. That was scholarly argued, Pablo. What did you think of So I Did It? That press move out left? Awesome.

I agree about the ratings for Way of the Samurai and So I Did It. I should also note that even though Bernd thought ACL was very soft if it was a 10, I happened to think it WAS super hard. Different styles abound.


Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > * Santa Barbara Bouldering > Ghost Town (a.k.a. winderme...
By: andy patterson When: Aug 23, 2016

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Comments: This is interesting. During my interactions with the manager of the adjacent ranch, I sensed that he felt in charge of the area, if not the actual legal guardian. Basically, he simply asked that I keep a pleasantly low profile and don't cause a ruckus. My guess is that he always assumed all that land was his to manage. The map seems to dictate otherwise.

However, I would still proceed with caution, since it would suck for an argument to break out, no matter how in the right you are. To all... more >>


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