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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 367
Total Points: 2,000

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Andy Laakmann been climbing?










Contributions


All 3152 | Routes 78 | Areas 32 | Approach Trails | Photos 147 | Page Improvements | Comments 491 | Posts 1301 | Stars 690 | Ratings 413
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Quail Springs Area > White Cliffs of Dover > White Cliffs of Dover - Lef... > Wilted Flower Children (5.8)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Nov 21, 2017

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Comments: Fun route. Definitely worth doing!


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Quail Springs Area > White Cliffs of Dover > White Cliffs of Dover - Lef... > Field and Stream (5.10c)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Nov 21, 2017

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Comments: Bob - you're a rock star. This this is another brilliant route. Well done sir. Fixed nut was gone, and I'm usually not one to hesitate on a runout start to the first bolt in JTree - but the steep moves and nasty fall potential into the yucca made me glad I had brought up a stick clip just for this route. Perhaps I could have fished in a nut midway, but since I had the bolt clipped I didn't check. Hopefully the high first bolt doesn't keep people off this wonderful route, but I have a fee... more >>


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Quail Springs Area > White Cliffs of Dover > White Cliffs of Dover - Lef... > Scientific Americans (5.8 R)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Nov 21, 2017

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Comments: Definitely not an unsafe route. Crux is right at the bolt and then it is super easy climbing to the horizontal (gear) and then the next bolt. From the top of the pillar, you need to step across and climb blocky (and somewhat loose) rock to the chains atop Ace of Spades. Route deserves an anchor of its own IMO. Certainly worth doing in the area and agreed the "R" rating is not warranted - at least by JTree standards.


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Lost Horse Area > Tiny Tots Rock > Tinker Toys (5.10b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Nov 19, 2017

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Comments: Really good route. Easy to fish in a nut to protect the first moves. I was too short to place the nut, but managed to get it in with a few shenanigans. Once established on the route, I thought 10b was fair for the opening 20' or so. Good gear the whole way, but expect to have to explore a bit. Hand size to #4 for anchor. Easy walk off down the left.


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Echo Rock Area > Little Hunk > Little Hunk - SW Face > ... > Broken Hearted (5.10c)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Nov 19, 2017

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Comments: Fun steep climbing. 10d IMO. Tough feet at the steep crux.


Location: Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (l) Christian Brothers > Christian Brothers - East S... > Ring of Fire (5.11d)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 30, 2017

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Comments: Cryptic crux indeed!


Location: Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (l) Christian Brothers > Christian Brothers - East S... > Hesitation Blues (5.10b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 30, 2017

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Comments: Pumpy and fun. Biggest piece you'll need is a #1 camalot.


Location: Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (m) Smith Rock Group > (1) Northeast Face > Lost in Space (5.10b/c)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 27, 2017

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Comments: FYI - As of 10/27/2017 the anchor atop the second pitch is not properly equipped to rappel. There are two links attached to the bolts, but they are flat against the rock and would be hell to pull a rope through. They need another set of links attached. 5' to the right is what looked like the remnants of a nice, two bolt anchor with proper rap rings... but one of the bolts is missing and in its place a hole.


Location: Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (m) Smith Rock Group > (1) Northeast Face > Lycra (5.10b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 27, 2017

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Comments: Fun climbing and a great way to get up to White Satin.


Location: California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corridor > Lover's Leap > West Wall > Arctic Breeze (5.10a)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Sep 27, 2017

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Comments: Super fun, and bolts where you need them. Maybe one piece of gear getting to the first bolt.


Location: California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corridor > Lover's Leap > West Wall > Hospital Corner (5.10a)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Sep 27, 2017

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Comments: Yes indeed. That good. I even thought the first pitch was fun.

The money pitch will take as many nuts and finger sized to green camalots you can throw at it. After the mini roof the last bit took a #1 and #2 camalot but was very easy compared to the rest of the climbing. Crux is definitely midway. My partner failed to stem properly off the left hand crack with her foot and it made it alot harder. If you brought a #3 camalot, don' hesitate to use it in the opening wide hand crack.

I ... more >>


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > Castle Rocks > Castle Rock > Castle Rock - North Spur > Jesus and Einstein (5.10c)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Sep 2, 2017

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Comments: Great route on impeccable stone. Do it!


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > Castle Rocks > Castle Rock > Castle Rock - North Spur > Milk Toast (5.10d)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Sep 2, 2017

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Comments: Stiff starting move. I am an old wimp and was happy to stick clip the second bolt. Easier climbing above with one 5.10- move at the mini-roof.


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > Castle Rocks > Castle Rock > Castle Rock - North Spur > No Climb for Old Men (5.10b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Sep 2, 2017

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Comments: I was happy to stick clip the second bolt!


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Breadloaves > Lower Breadloaves - Provo W... > Humble's Tumble (5.9- PG13)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Sep 1, 2017

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Comments: Super fun route, and very continuous climbing. I think 5.9 is fair - there are no stopper moves, but no easy moves either.

Climb protects very well - outside of a few sections in the first 40 feet, you could put a cam anywhere you want. I brought a #4 camalotand only found a place for it at the very top and it wasn't even necessary. So gear to a #3 camalot is fine, but you'll probably want extra in the green camalot to #2 size. It was surprisingly mostly tight hands the whole way.... more >>


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Slhanay (The Squaw) > The Great Drain (5.10b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 17, 2017

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Comments: Fun route, but nowhere near as classic as Great Game.

P1 - Easy 5.7 cracks
P2 - You can't see the meat of the pitch above. Moderate cracks take you to the base of the chimney. It took me a second to realize there was a bolt around and left on the slab. Crux for me was clipping the second bolt. And then laybacking madness up the rest of the bolts. Good fun!
P3 - The first half of this pitch is definitely a bit spooky with the loose flakes. We continued up the Great Game proper rather ... more >>


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Chief > ... > Over The Rainbow (5.9+)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 16, 2017

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Comments: More fun than I expected it to be! In 500' of climbing there are probably less than 20 real handholds :) Adequately bolted to keep it engaging for the leader. I really wouldn't suggest this route to someone unless they are a confident 5.10- slab climber though as it's generally 30+ feet between bolts on sustained 5.8/5.9 slabbing.

We only linked the last two pitches..

I had a single rack of fingers to #3 camalot and placed a few of them. Slung a few trees as well.


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Murrin Park > ... > In the Firing Line (5.10b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 15, 2017

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Comments: Really fun route and a nice mix of trad and sport.

I was very happy to have a #1 camalot available after the second bolt. There are still some hard moves up there and you are well above the bolt at that point in time. A #1 camalot goes in perfectly in a horizontal.

I suggest a single rack from tight fingers to #3 camalot. Just save a #1 for up top :)

Be aware the anchors are RIGHT of the last bolt. I blindly pulled over the top right above the last bolt and had to perform some shenanigans... more >>


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Murrin Park > ... > Staples of the Gluten Intol... (5.10b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 15, 2017

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Comments: If you bring a sling, you can easily sling the tree stump between bolts 2 and 3.


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Smoke Bluffs > ... > Zigidy Zags (5.10a)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 13, 2017

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Comments: Two move wonder, but fun.


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Smoke Bluffs > ... > Way of the Wife (5.10b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 13, 2017

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Comments: Definitely a heads-up lead. I placed a small HB Offset leaving the crack to the first bolt and I'm not convinced it would have held a fall. And it's a long way from the first bolt to the next piece of gear. Fun route otherwise.


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Slhanay (The Squaw) > Jungle Warfare (5.10a)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 10, 2017

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Comments: First pitch is great fun, and the other pitches are pretty fun as well. Just for curiosity, we rapped down Flight Simulator after the 5.7 ramp (P4 in the Select Guide). After the 5.7 ramp pitch you'll see bolts rigged to rap. Rap down to the climber's right (skier's left) a bit to the next set of rap rings . 4 raps, all less than 30m to the ground. You'll land right uphill of your packs.

I has happy to have a #4 camalot - found plenty of places for it.


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Slhanay (The Squaw) > Supernatural (5.11a)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 10, 2017

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Comments: First pitch is fabulous. 70m rope makes the rap no problem. I think a 60m would be tight. Definitely big hands for the last 20 feet or so - so bring a couple 3s (I had a #4 but you can probably do without it). I was concerned about my rope getting pinched in the crack at the lip of the roof, so I dropped in a green camalot right after the lip and put two carabiners on it to keep the rope from going deeper into the crack. I also backcleaned the pieces prior to the roof. Worked great and ro... more >>


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Chief > ... > Long Time No See (5.9)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 9, 2017

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Comments: Another great new addition to the Apron. The P2 hand crack and traverse on the topo's P6 are the definite standout pitches. I'd call P2 5.9 vs the topo's 5.8. We went all the way to the top, and while P8 is nothing special, the final pitch is pretty cool.


Location: California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Pine Creek Canyon > Scheelite Crags / PSOM Slab > ... > John Fischer Memorial Route (5.10c)
By: Andy Laakmann When: May 13, 2017

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Comments: Super fun route. Very well protected climbing with miles of moderate climbing punctuated by the occasional harder move. IMO - most the slab climbing felt about 5.9/5.10a.... and the crux finger crack 10b or so. For gear, doubles from very thin to #0.75 - and then one each #1, #2, #3 camalots, and a rack of nuts. The crux thin crack is THIN... think purple C3 size. The business never gets bigger than green C3 and is usually smaller than that. I placed a 0.1 X4, 0.2 X4, and then a purple ... more >>


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