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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Andy Laakmann

Point Rank: # 348
Total Points: 1,805

141 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Andy Laakmann been climbing?










Contributions


All 3064 | Routes 76 | Areas 31 | Photos 142 | Page Improvements | Comments 482 | Posts 1297 | Stars 627 | Ratings 409
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : John Fischer Memorial Route (5.10c)
By: Andy Laakmann When: May 13, 2017

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Comments: Super fun route. Very well protected climbing with miles of moderate climbing punctuated by the occasional harder move. IMO - most the slab climbing felt about 5.9/5.10a.... and the crux finger crack 10b or so. For gear, doubles from very thin to #0.75 - and then one each #1, #2, #3 camalots, and a rack of nuts. The crux thin crack is THIN... think purple C3 size. The business never gets bigger than green C3 and is usually smaller than that. I placed a 0.1 X4, 0.2 X4, and then a purple ... more >>


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Three Hour Buttress : Three Hour Arete (5.10b/c)
By: Andy Laakmann When: May 13, 2017

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Comments: Fun, but not classic IMO. First and last pitches are the good ones. The last pitch is definitely thoughtful at times.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Welcome to the Gorge (5.9)
By: Andy Laakmann When: May 6, 2017

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Comments: Bottom is slippery as bird shit on glass! Fun climb.


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : Right Toilet Bowl Crack (5.10a)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 29, 2016

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Comments: Really fun route. Lots of chimneying, but they are all very well protected and not too hard. I agree with the comment above that the first pitch seems 5.10- to me. The short offwidth on P3 is no big deal, and in fact, I thought the opening moves on P1 to be harder :)

Do not bring a pack on this route or you'll be cursing.

I was happy to have 2 x #4 camalot and the #5 camalot. I also had an extra #3 and #3.5 and found places to use them on P2, but ... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Pink Flamingo (5.10b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 27, 2016

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Comments: Yes, you'll want a #2 or #3 for the horizontal. Good climbing.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Raging Duck (5.10b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 27, 2016

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Comments: I got a perfect #2 camalot at the horizontal tucked in the back. And I also a nice yellow C3 in the upper crack between bolt 4 and 5 (not that it is terribly needed)l


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Olesen Creek Wall : Thriller on the Pillar (5.10b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 26, 2016

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Comments: Did it again to start Wiretap... killer pitch for sure. Once again, above the first mini-roof it's all #1 camalot or smaller - so don't hesitate to dump your larger pieces in the chimney crack below. The cracks above will take as many #0.4-#0.75s as you can throw at it.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Borderline (5.10d)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: Great climb, but the opening pitches were a bit dirty. Everytime I've done it I've done the traversing raps back to the Terrace. Kind of a pain in the ass. Maybe next time I'll do the straight raps.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Bulletheads East (5.10c)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: Holy smokes, the Stembox pitch is out of this world. This was my forth time on the route and I had never done the stem pitch option for p3. ABSOLUTELY do not miss this pitch. It's a perfect pitch, and wonderfully unique for Squamish. Great pro all the way.

On P2, I was pleased to discover a 0.75 X4 camalot went in beautifully right after pull the crux. YMMV.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : Corrugation Corner (5.7)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 13, 2015

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Comments: Wow - so fun. Every pitch is good. We did it in three pitches, a 60m just makes the top from the belay. Happy I saved a #2 and #3 camalot for the belay atop pitch 2. The are excellent small nuts (HB Offsets) right at the manky pin on P3. That pin isn't worth anything. I agree that the arete on P2 feels a bit sporty. There is definitely gear, but not everywhere you want it.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Haystack (5.8)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: Mostly really fun 5.6, with a cool 5.8 crux. I dragged a #4 camalot up but didn't need it.

As for the second pitch top belay... the party above us belayed among the blocks, and we belayed on the small stance about 20' down and right. Worked out perfectly. Last pitch took nearly all of a 60m rope.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : The Line (5.9)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: Great climb, and the route met our (high) expectations.

Gear seemed plentiful and not the least bit tricky to me... and I am a wimp and place lots of gear. I do carry offset nuts, so perhaps those helped.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Mercy Street (5.10b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 22, 2015

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Comments: Mega good.

I was surprised to see how small the first 50' of the second pitch was.... primarily fingers to big fingers.

The top half of 2nd pitch will take as many #2s and #3 camalots that you can throw at it. A old BD #3.5 went in perfectly before the anchor. It looked like a #4 new style camalot would as well.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : River Road : Northside Routes : El Segundo (5.9)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: Fun route close to town... and a little "mini adventure" as well. Climbs like a tower route.... even though it isn't a tower :)

Park right below the route in a pullout. Walk up the bike path towards Arches until you can (easily) gain the bench and then follow the bench up until it ends at the start of the first pitch traverse. You actually start the hike on the short trail to the petrogylphs sign.

The first pitch steps down a short chimney before traversing right. I was easily able to plac... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon : Day Canyon Cragging Routes : Working Class Hero (5.9)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 19, 2014

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Comments: A fun change of pace from steep splitters. "Friendly" green and purple camalots through the business. I also placed some #0.4 camalots, a #2 camalot, and a #1 camalot.

Sandy feet keep it exciting.

Anchor does need some love though.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon : Day Canyon Cragging Routes : Christine's Way Buff Sabb (5.9+)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 19, 2014

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Comments: Great route.

(Camalots) #3 or #4 for the first mantle, than a #0.5 or #0.75, and then as many #2s as you want to carry. You can also get a #3 at the base of the main crack.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon : Day Canyon Cragging Routes : Brush Painted Datsun (5.10b/c)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 19, 2014

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Comments: Amazing route. Worth the hike, especially when combined with Saab next door.

I placed a #0.5 camalot to get up to the ledge. Plus a #3 as a directional for my second on the way down.

The thing will take as many #2 camalots as you can carry. I was happy to have a new BD #4 in the lower pod 10' up the main crack, though it isn't necessary. And then some #1 camalots for the start and finish. Book says #0.75, but I didn't place any. You can get a #3... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 19, 2014

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Comments: Some approach beta...

You can comfortably stay in the wash until below Working Class Hero. That climb is further up the canyon than I thought (20 minutes or so). Once below Working Class Hero, the sandy wash opens up to smooth slickrock ledges before gorging up again. There is a jeep trail that begins on the right side right above the slickrock ledges. You can then walk on the jeep trail for 10-15 minutes until you are past the cragging routes to the right of Bootleg Tower. To access Dat... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Pigs in a Slot (5.10)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 18, 2014

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Comments: The top of the wide bit is more like a new #5 camalot (or a wide/tipped #4).


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Super Surprised (5.10-)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 18, 2014

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Comments: Great route, and still "undiscovered by the masses" despite being a short 3 minute walk left of 3AM crack.

Walk left past Rad Bad and go about 50 feet until you are staring at a chimney with a finger crack next to it.

Small cams up to #0.5 for the finger crack into the chimney. And then a handsize cam (#1, #2, or #3 will all fit as you climb higher) up to the belay atop of the pillar. I'd say the first pitch felt 5.9ish.

Second pitch is great. It goes from hands... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Sunset Strip (5.10+)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: Wonderful route and destined for mass popularity once it is listed in the guidebooks.

Sustained, well protected, moderate 5.10 climbing with occasional short, harder cruxes. Can't miss the start. It's down and right of Rutabega about 100 yards or so and starts off a rock at a bolt.

Easier than the Grand Wall, and is someways more enjoyable due to the varied climbing and lack of any bolt ladders.

I was happy with nuts, double set of cams from small to #3 camalot. And one #4 ca... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : The Reacharound (5.9)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: Totally fun. I hand traversed out the big rail and made it harder for myself (accidently). My partners simply worked up into the chimney for a move. Duh. That made way more sense.

I was happy to have a #4 but you didn't need it. Save a green camalot for above the rail.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : Commonwealth
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: Absolutely fabulous wall for a family outing. The climbs are perfect for kids, with many of them starting easy and getting harder up top. We had a great day with our kids - 6 and 9.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Slhanay (The Squaw) : Jungle Warfare (5.10a)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 1, 2014

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Comments: First pitch was great. We split the first pitch proper into two pitches, belaying at the bolted belay to minimize any rope drag. I was happy to have a #4 camalot... plenty of places to place it.

We linked the 5.7 ramp to the 50' slab finishing pitch without any drag. Traverse off to climber's right from there.

Unless you want to do the old "Tunnel Descent", be sure to walk up about 200 yards once you traverse into the descent gully. The tunnel descent goes, but it isn't exactly plea... more >>


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Nutcracker (5.8)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Truly a gem of the route. Every pitch is good.

Did the original start first, and then the finger crack start after walking down. A 70m just allows you to lower/TR after leading the finger crack. A gray X4 was perfect at the cruxy transition into the thin crack.


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