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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
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Total Points: 2,000

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 3119 | Routes 78 | Areas 32 | Approach Trails | Photos 147 | Page Improvements | Comments 480 | Posts 1298 | Stars 672 | Ratings 412
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Idaho : South Idaho : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Castle Rock - North Spur : Jesus and Einstein (5.10c)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Sep 2, 2017

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Comments: Great route on impeccable stone. Do it!


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Castle Rock - North Spur : Milk Toast (5.10d)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Sep 2, 2017

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Comments: Stiff starting move. I am an old wimp and was happy to stick clip the second bolt. Easier climbing above with one 5.10- move at the mini-roof.


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Castle Rock - North Spur : No Climb for Old Men (5.10b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Sep 2, 2017

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Comments: I was happy to stick clip the second bolt!


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Lower Breadloaves - Provo W... : Humble's Tumble (5.9- PG13)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Sep 1, 2017

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Comments: Super fun route, and very continuous climbing. I think 5.9 is fair - there are no stopper moves, but no easy moves either.

Climb protects very well - outside of a few sections in the first 40 feet, you could put a cam anywhere you want. I brought a #4 camalotand only found a place for it at the very top and it wasn't even necessary. So gear to a #3 camalot is fine, but you'll probably want extra in the green camalot to #2 size. It was surprisingly mostly tight hands the whole way.... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Slhanay (The Squaw) : The Great Drain (5.10b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 17, 2017

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Comments: Fun route, but nowhere near as classic as Great Game.

P1 - Easy 5.7 cracks
P2 - You can't see the meat of the pitch above. Moderate cracks take you to the base of the chimney. It took me a second to realize there was a bolt around and left on the slab. Crux for me was clipping the second bolt. And then laybacking madness up the rest of the bolts. Good fun!
P3 - The first half of this pitch is definitely a bit spooky with the loose flakes. We continued up the Great Game proper rather ... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Over The Rainbow (5.9+)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 16, 2017

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Comments: More fun than I expected it to be! In 500' of climbing there are probably less than 20 real handholds :) Adequately bolted to keep it engaging for the leader. I really wouldn't suggest this route to someone unless they are a confident 5.10- slab climber though as it's generally 30+ feet between bolts on sustained 5.8/5.9 slabbing.

We only linked the last two pitches..

I had a single rack of fingers to #3 camalot and placed a few of them. Slung a few trees as well.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : In the Firing Line (5.10b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 15, 2017

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Comments: Really fun route and a nice mix of trad and sport.

I was very happy to have a #1 camalot available after the second bolt. There are still some hard moves up there and you are well above the bolt at that point in time. A #1 camalot goes in perfectly in a horizontal.

I suggest a single rack from tight fingers to #3 camalot. Just save a #1 for up top :)

Be aware the anchors are RIGHT of the last bolt. I blindly pulled over the top right above the last bolt and had to perform some shenanigans... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Staples of the Gluten Intol... (5.10b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 15, 2017

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Comments: If you bring a sling, you can easily sling the tree stump between bolts 2 and 3.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Zigidy Zags (5.10a)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 13, 2017

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Comments: Two move wonder, but fun.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Way of the Wife (5.10b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 13, 2017

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Comments: Definitely a heads-up lead. I placed a small HB Offset leaving the crack to the first bolt and I'm not convinced it would have held a fall. And it's a long way from the first bolt to the next piece of gear. Fun route otherwise.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Slhanay (The Squaw) : Jungle Warfare (5.10a)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 10, 2017

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Comments: First pitch is great fun, and the other pitches are pretty fun as well. Just for curiosity, we rapped down Flight Simulator after the 5.7 ramp (P4 in the Select Guide). After the 5.7 ramp pitch you'll see bolts rigged to rap. Rap down to the climber's right (skier's left) a bit to the next set of rap rings . 4 raps, all less than 30m to the ground. You'll land right uphill of your packs.

I has happy to have a #4 camalot - found plenty of places for it.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Slhanay (The Squaw) : Supernatural (5.11a)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 10, 2017

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Comments: First pitch is fabulous. 70m rope makes the rap no problem. I think a 60m would be tight. Definitely big hands for the last 20 feet or so - so bring a couple 3s (I had a #4 but you can probably do without it). I was concerned about my rope getting pinched in the crack at the lip of the roof, so I dropped in a green camalot right after the lip and put two carabiners on it to keep the rope from going deeper into the crack. I also backcleaned the pieces prior to the roof. Worked great and ro... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Long Time No See (5.9)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 9, 2017

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Comments: Another great new addition to the Apron. The P2 hand crack and traverse on the topo's P6 are the definite standout pitches. I'd call P2 5.9 vs the topo's 5.8. We went all the way to the top, and while P8 is nothing special, the final pitch is pretty cool.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : John Fischer Memorial Route (5.10c)
By: Andy Laakmann When: May 13, 2017

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Comments: Super fun route. Very well protected climbing with miles of moderate climbing punctuated by the occasional harder move. IMO - most the slab climbing felt about 5.9/5.10a.... and the crux finger crack 10b or so. For gear, doubles from very thin to #0.75 - and then one each #1, #2, #3 camalots, and a rack of nuts. The crux thin crack is THIN... think purple C3 size. The business never gets bigger than green C3 and is usually smaller than that. I placed a 0.1 X4, 0.2 X4, and then a purple ... more >>


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Three Hour Buttress : Three Hour Arete (5.10b/c)
By: Andy Laakmann When: May 13, 2017

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Comments: Fun, but not classic IMO. First and last pitches are the good ones. The last pitch is definitely thoughtful at times.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Welcome to the Gorge (5.9)
By: Andy Laakmann When: May 6, 2017

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Comments: Bottom is slippery as bird shit on glass! Fun climb.


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : Right Toilet Bowl Crack (5.10a)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 29, 2016

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Comments: Really fun route. Lots of chimneying, but they are all very well protected and not too hard. I agree with the comment above that the first pitch seems 5.10- to me. The short offwidth on P3 is no big deal, and in fact, I thought the opening moves on P1 to be harder :)

Do not bring a pack on this route or you'll be cursing.

I was happy to have 2 x #4 camalot and the #5 camalot. I also had an extra #3 and #3.5 and found places to use them on P2, but ... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Pink Flamingo (5.10b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 27, 2016

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Comments: Yes, you'll want a #2 or #3 for the horizontal. Good climbing.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Raging Duck (5.10b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 27, 2016

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Comments: I got a perfect #2 camalot at the horizontal tucked in the back. And I also a nice yellow C3 in the upper crack between bolt 4 and 5 (not that it is terribly needed)l


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Olesen Creek Wall : Thriller on the Pillar (5.10b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 26, 2016

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Comments: Did it again to start Wiretap... killer pitch for sure. Once again, above the first mini-roof it's all #1 camalot or smaller - so don't hesitate to dump your larger pieces in the chimney crack below. The cracks above will take as many #0.4-#0.75s as you can throw at it.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Borderline (5.10d)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: Great climb, but the opening pitches were a bit dirty. Everytime I've done it I've done the traversing raps back to the Terrace. Kind of a pain in the ass. Maybe next time I'll do the straight raps.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Bulletheads East (5.10c)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: Holy smokes, the Stembox pitch is out of this world. This was my forth time on the route and I had never done the stem pitch option for p3. ABSOLUTELY do not miss this pitch. It's a perfect pitch, and wonderfully unique for Squamish. Great pro all the way.

On P2, I was pleased to discover a 0.75 X4 camalot went in beautifully right after pull the crux. YMMV.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : Corrugation Corner (5.7)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 13, 2015

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Comments: Wow - so fun. Every pitch is good. We did it in three pitches, a 60m just makes the top from the belay. Happy I saved a #2 and #3 camalot for the belay atop pitch 2. The are excellent small nuts (HB Offsets) right at the manky pin on P3. That pin isn't worth anything. I agree that the arete on P2 feels a bit sporty. There is definitely gear, but not everywhere you want it.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Haystack (5.8)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: Mostly really fun 5.6, with a cool 5.8 crux. I dragged a #4 camalot up but didn't need it.

As for the second pitch top belay... the party above us belayed among the blocks, and we belayed on the small stance about 20' down and right. Worked out perfectly. Last pitch took nearly all of a 60m rope.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : The Line (5.9)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments: Great climb, and the route met our (high) expectations.

Gear seemed plentiful and not the least bit tricky to me... and I am a wimp and place lots of gear. I do carry offset nuts, so perhaps those helped.


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