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Rock Climbing Photo: Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt K...


Member Since: Sep 26, 2009
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Andy Hansen
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Point Rank: # 226
Total Points: 2,768
Last Year: 128
Last 30 Days: 9
111 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 3842 | Routes 80 | Areas 12 | Photos 249 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 540 | Posts 471 | Stars 1310 | Ratings 1179
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannabis Crag
By: Andy Hansen When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Pretty sure it's a Brian McCray route. A few years ago we ran into him and he let us have a go on his new routes at the crag. I believe a route to the right of KGB, and to the right of Freak Brothers, went at around 12c or so... my friend Tony was able to climb it with Brian's good grace. Pretty cool moment in time with the local legend.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Unnamed II (fingers through... (5.10)
By: Andy Hansen When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: This is a classic pitch! It runs through the sizes from bottom to top yet provides a few rests along the way. I would also agree with Aimee that the crux is near the top. Anchors seem to be in an ideal position unless she was just saying they should be positioned lower as to avoid the wide climbing... get on this thing!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Blue Gramma (5.11)
By: Andy Hansen When: Nov 27, 2016

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Comments: Pretty great route. Felt like 11b endurance liebacking with a few restful stances along the way. Gets steep at the top! Also, I mysteriously pulled off a softball sized flake about 2/3's of the way up the route. Even on well traveled routes there can still be objective hazard.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Punk Rock : Bits and Pieces (5.12c)
By: Andy Hansen When: Nov 16, 2016

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Comments: This is a nice, varied, and long route that is marred only by some flaky rock here and there. At first I thought bolt #4 was positioned a bit weird, but figure out the moves, and it'll all happen for ya. Nice job equipping this line - it's a nice piece of climbing!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : FM (5.11c)
By: Andy Hansen When: Nov 4, 2016

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Comments: 2 pins and 2 fixed stoppers currently on this route. The 2nd pin is somewhat dubious, easily backed up with a 1" cam. Bizarre, unique, awkward, powerful, wonderful climbing.

For what it's worth, I stayed in the right dihedral of the double dihedral system. I didn't really find it necessary to step into the left dihedral system save for the very last move onto the good stance before the 5.9 climbing to the top. Perhaps a little hard for 11c... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Quarry Wall : Frank's Tame Years (5.11a)
By: Andy Hansen When: Nov 3, 2016

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Comments: A little crusty rock down low detracts from the overall quality of the route. A couple good jams and some interesting stemming down low lead to a no-hands rest before the "campus" crux which, in my opinion, is significantly easier following this corner versus the finger crack of Frank's Wild Years. With that in mind, a 5.10 leader should feel pretty comfortable on this. Single rack to 3" with a few small TCUs or C3s.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up (5.10c)
By: Andy Hansen When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: Ahem, scrappy not 'crappy' chimney.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Welcome to Red Rocks (5.12)
By: Andy Hansen When: Oct 14, 2016

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Comments: The 11a variation is good but hardly 11a. More like 10b. Good climbing, good but flaky rock at times. 5.12 corner is good old fashioned burl. Anchor is in fine shape and can be backed up with a #3 Camalot for a TR on the corner. Some shenanigans required to TR the 5.12- so just lead it! You really wouldn't need small stoppers cuz you won't have any stance in which to place them from. Small cams up to .75 or 1 would do the trick.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Pinnacle : Batman and Robin (5.6)
By: Andy Hansen When: Sep 24, 2016

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Comments: Rap stations in the gully east of the pinnacle are in good condition. Not sure why a 3 rappel descent isn't recommended, since it effectively puts you at the base without walking? Anyway, rappel 60m from the summit, scramble down to next anchor at large pine tree, rappel 40m to another tree skier's left, rappel 20m to the ground, and walk 30m to the base of the formation.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Mt Triumph : NE Ridge (5.6 PG13)
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 31, 2016

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Comments: With very minimal downclimbing and/or rope shenanigans this route can be easily rappelled or down climbed with a single 60m rope. There was only one station that seemed poor and therefore we skipped it and rappelled long to a decent ledge where we performed a belayed down climb. This type of descent mode seems par for the course on this route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Pony Express (5.11c)
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 22, 2016

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Comments: I climbed this today in Kroenhoffer's and ate the mummified wasp carcasses in the crack on the second pitch as I climbed up, soloing. The remaining wasps I caught in my hands whilst handling the arete with my left hand and proceeded to eat them too. Needless to say, there are no more wasps in this mega-rig right now. I downclimbed after the second crux, which was perplexing to say the least, before the bolted anchor, because the rock was just a little too crumbly for my taste... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Jackson-Johnson (5.9)
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments: This is a decent route. Bring a lot of double length runners or suffer the consequences. The "5.9" pitch felt easily like 10- in my opinion. The bolts are, as noted previously, rather worthless. Standard rack to 3" with doubles in the #0.5-#1 Camalot size seemed sufficient. A lot of the advertised grading in Rossiter's guide felt a little sandbaggy but fun nonetheless.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : Southwest Corner (5.9) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 12, 2016

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Comments: Ryan's just a HWDAMF so he probably fired up this, casually, and then cruised it to the summit... despite there being still a few more pitches left. That's how badass this guy is. Ryan, when are we going climbing again?


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Kor's Door (5.9-)
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: Just another pitch breakdown and gear beta:

Approach: from the Mill's Glacier scramble, or short pitch, go up the loose, broken ledges left towards the obvious start of the route. This is all-in-all about 300' of low-5th class terrain.

P1: 180' 5.9. From the left side of the 'Door' work right into the corner with some cool stemming to reach the roof. Pull the awkward roof and belay at a stance.
... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: Caleb, those people have all graduated from crowding the Petit Grepon to crowding the Casual Route. Get with the program.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Syke's Sickle (5.9+)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 28, 2016

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Comments: Sorry, Pink Thunder, I'm with Fehim on this one. This route doesn't live up to the hype. Mediocre pitches lead to a stellar, albeit short, crux. The Barb is a significantly better route and only a letter grade harder....


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Original Fantasy Ridge (5.6)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: "5.6+".


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Joy and Tribulation (5.9 R)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: Classic route. I climbed this route today and avoided the 5.9 R climbing by continuing up the initial crack system of P1 (instead of climbing out right onto the arete and L-facing corner) and belayed after 120' or so of climbing. I followed Sidewinder's 2nd pitch which was pleasant, albeit a bit grassy, to the ledge system below the chimney. 3rd pitch is phenomenal. The R rated climbing is easily avoidable and all in all still clocks in somewhere around 5.... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : Romancing the Stone (5.9)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 22, 2016

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Comments: This is a damn near classic route. There is a little bit of hollow rock here and there but nothing that's going to come off in a catastrophic way. I kept climbing past the anchors into the neighboring 10-, and this creates a really good mini-extension to an already awesome moderate. Doing the pitch this way, the route is exactly 30m. Tie knots in the end of the rope! All that's really necessary in terms of gear is a finger-sized cam for after the 2nd bolt ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Film Noir (5.12c)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 12, 2016

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Comments: Thought this was a great route on really good rock. I onsighted through the crux and then flamed out in the upper 5.11+ bit reaching the anchors. There is some sustained climbing after the crux that is not to be underestimated! Also, the bolting is a bit funky (bolts 8 & 9 could both have been placed 2' lower respectively), so having a long draw on the 8th bolt for your redpoint go would be nice. Otherwise, a fantastic route up a great swath of gently overhanging rock.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Pear Buttress (5.8)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 4, 2016

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Comments: This goes nicely in 3 pitches:

P1. 55m, 5.8. Combine first two pitches, and belay at the fixed pin and nut anchor.

P2. 60m, 5.8. Combine third and fourth pitch, and belay about 30' below the cave.

P3. 25m, 5.7. Use the Hurley Traverse exit.

Classic route that is easily repeatable.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : East Buttress (5.10b) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Jun 23, 2016

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Comments: Your pants aren't nearly short enough- and are you wearing socks in those climbing shoes? Nice shot.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Standard Route aka 1st Butt... (5.5)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jun 23, 2016

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Comments: Good route. There are numerous options to approach the upper headwall. Yesterday, two folks and I took a line near the Great Dihedral and meandered up through 500' of broken yet fun alpine terrain to reach the headwall. We climbed the headwall in 3 pitches (150', 100', and 100' respectively), and this allowed me to use the obvious belay stances. Gear wise, a single rack up to #3 Camalot would be appropriate. Th... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Gates of Eden (5.10a)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jun 13, 2016

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Comments: It's possible, though not mandatory, to place a #4 on this route. After the hard climbing, which is well-protected by singles in the hand size or smaller range, there's a perfect pod for a #4. I still find it odd that the anchor for this is two bolts sans chains or rappel equipment. Anyway, move left to the anchor of Hound Dog to get off this rig.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : McGregor Slab : Right Standard (5.6)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jun 12, 2016

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Comments: Pretty great route. A granite equivalent to the 1st or 3rd Flatiron - but with more crack systems. The pitches are long. Each roughly 190' or so. There are about 5 of them to reach the ridge crest on the eastern side of McGregor Slab "summit." The stances are great. Aim for trees, and if there is not a tree, good crack systems appear when in need. Route finding shouldn't be an issue on this route if you trend continually right... more >>


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