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Member Since: Sep 26, 2009
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Andy Hansen
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Point Rank: # 298
Total Points: 2,303

122 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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All 4011 | Routes 81 | Areas 12 | Approach Trails | Photos 262 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 556 | Posts 497 | Stars 1369 | Ratings 1233
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Stage Fright (5.11a)
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 30, 2017

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Comments: Pretty great route. Runout to the corner is not trivial but not that difficult either. Like Lisa said, save a #0.4 or 0.5 Camalot for the crux. The crux is over quickly, and 5.11- is a generous grade for this route. 5.10c would be more appropriate.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest : Prince of Thieves (5.12b)
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 10, 2017

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Comments: Pretty great route and the best at this crag. This would even be worth doing if you climb it at 5.11 C0, because even the climbing above the crux is pleasant.

I can see how some folks call this 5.12a. It seems as though this crag has a lot of contrivances and climbing about 10' right of the 2nd bolt, and then working back left to the 3rd bolt would put it at 12a and make it certainly less static than the 12b way.

Either way, it's a good route worth doing and feels pretty right on for t... more >>


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Intergalatic Bong Rip (5.10-)
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 8, 2017

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Comments: FA: Matt Kuehl, 2012.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Purcell Mountains : ... : Beckey-Chouinard (5.10)
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 2, 2017

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Comments: Classic route. Be prepared to be on the route with other parties and make it happen. We had a small rack of stoppers, a few small cams, doubles in .5-#3 Camalots and a single #4 Camalot. This worked well. We also rappelled the route with a 8.9mm 60m cord and had no problems reaching the rappels. The rappel over the bergschrund ended up being exactly 30m with very little room to spare; this could change seasonally but it might not be a bad idea to carry a 22cm, lightweight screw and threader for ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Performance Climbing Park : River Wall : Vast Emptiness (5.12a)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 24, 2017

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Comments: I "Hong-Sighted" this at 11c. It was much harder than that.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sabbatical Wall : Decreation (5.12)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 22, 2017

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Comments: I have a mission; to only downgrade, on TR, Pat's routes. No Pat route is safe. The downgrading will be egregious and rampant.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : The Gauntlet (5.12d) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 16, 2017

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Comments: I was able to find a small nut before the run to the chains that reduces the length of the fall potential.... Nice job leading this one on gear!


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Wizard's Gate : Take Me to Your Leader (5.11c/d)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 16, 2017

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Comments: Move for move I didn't think there was anything harder on this pitch than on The Guillotine, but there is significantly more sustained difficulties and a heady run between bolts to keep it invigorating. Great, long, difficult pitch and a great lead at the grade.


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Wizard's Gate : Merlin's Magic Corner (5.10)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 6, 2017

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Comments: This route is really, really good. It leads up in difficulty quite nicely and protects, with a bit of thoughtfulness, very well. Honestly, it's a 4 star route and the only thing that detracts from this route is the fact that the crux of the climbing is not independent. Nevertheless, with a single rack in the pack, this pitch makes the hike up the hill worth it! There is currently a fixed #3 BD Stopper above the third overlap. Also, it's possible that the rope could become quite wedged in... more >>


Location: Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Odessa Gorge : ... : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Jun 25, 2017

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Comments: This is Flattop Gully.


Location: Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Odessa Gorge : ... : The Hourglass (WI3)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jun 25, 2017

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Comments: 600' route is more like it. Hardly 70 degrees. More accurately sustained 40-45 degree snow with perhaps a few spots of 50 degree terrain. Awesome route in a great setting.


Location: Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : ... : South East Face Couloir aka... (M1-2 PG13)
By: Andy Hansen When: Feb 21, 2017

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Comments: Often referred to as the "S-Couloir."


Location: Colorado : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Quarry Wall : Bone Collector aka Bone Cru... (5.12)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jan 6, 2017

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Comments: I'd call it a classic. The fatter your fingers, the better. I have pretty slender digits and found the crux to be bomber fingers to a desperate ring lock to some burl doggin' to a good rest. Gear is abundant and good bottom to top. Here's what I placed on the redpoint for those looking to dial it in: orange Metolius Mastercam, 0.3 Camalot, green C3, 0.4 Camalot, 0.4 Camalot, 0.5 Camalot, 0.75 Camalot, 0.5 Camalot, 0.75 Camalot. Tickle t... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Cat Burglar (5.12)
By: Andy Hansen When: Dec 29, 2016

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Comments: Personally I think Alex's rack recommendation is entirely off. A #1 or #2 Camalot under the roof with a long draw and then 4-5 .3 Camalots and 2-3 .4 Camalots.


Location:
By: Andy Hansen When: Dec 12, 2016

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Comments: Yo, it's Bill Murray. And Bobby Digital and the Genius!


Location: phil wortmann : Topos : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Dec 9, 2016

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Comments: Hmm... that doesn't look like RMNP...


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannabis Crag
By: Andy Hansen When: Dec 2, 2016

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Comments: Pretty sure it's a Brian McCray route. A few years ago we ran into him and he let us have a go on his new routes at the crag. I believe a route to the right of KGB, and to the right of Freak Brothers, went at around 12c or so... my friend Tony was able to climb it with Brian's good grace. Pretty cool moment in time with the local legend.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Unnamed II (fingers through... (5.10)
By: Andy Hansen When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: This is a classic pitch! It runs through the sizes from bottom to top yet provides a few rests along the way. I would also agree with Aimee that the crux is near the top. Anchors seem to be in an ideal position unless she was just saying they should be positioned lower as to avoid the wide climbing... get on this thing!


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Blue Gramma (5.11)
By: Andy Hansen When: Nov 27, 2016

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Comments: Pretty great route. Felt like 11b endurance liebacking with a few restful stances along the way. Gets steep at the top! Also, I mysteriously pulled off a softball sized flake about 2/3's of the way up the route. Even on well traveled routes there can still be objective hazard.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Punk Rock : Bits and Pieces (5.12c)
By: Andy Hansen When: Nov 16, 2016

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Comments: This is a nice, varied, and long route that is marred only by some flaky rock here and there. At first I thought bolt #4 was positioned a bit weird, but figure out the moves, and it'll all happen for ya. Nice job equipping this line - it's a nice piece of climbing!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : FM (5.11c)
By: Andy Hansen When: Nov 4, 2016

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Comments: 2 pins and 2 fixed stoppers currently on this route. The 2nd pin is somewhat dubious, easily backed up with a 1" cam. Bizarre, unique, awkward, powerful, wonderful climbing.

For what it's worth, I stayed in the right dihedral of the double dihedral system. I didn't really find it necessary to step into the left dihedral system save for the very last move onto the good stance before the 5.9 climbing to the top. Perhaps a little hard for 11c... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Quarry Wall : Frank's Tame Years (5.11a)
By: Andy Hansen When: Nov 3, 2016

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Comments: A little crusty rock down low detracts from the overall quality of the route. A couple good jams and some interesting stemming down low lead to a no-hands rest before the "campus" crux which, in my opinion, is significantly easier following this corner versus the finger crack of Frank's Wild Years. With that in mind, a 5.10 leader should feel pretty comfortable on this. Single rack to 3" with a few small TCUs or C3s.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up (5.10c)
By: Andy Hansen When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: Ahem, scrappy not 'crappy' chimney.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Welcome to Red Rocks (5.12)
By: Andy Hansen When: Oct 14, 2016

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Comments: The 11a variation is good but hardly 11a. More like 10b. Good climbing, good but flaky rock at times. 5.12 corner is good old fashioned burl. Anchor is in fine shape and can be backed up with a #3 Camalot for a TR on the corner. Some shenanigans required to TR the 5.12- so just lead it! You really wouldn't need small stoppers cuz you won't have any stance in which to place them from. Small cams up to .75 or 1 would do the trick.


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Pinnacle : Batman and Robin (5.6)
By: Andy Hansen When: Sep 24, 2016

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Comments: Rap stations in the gully east of the pinnacle are in good condition. Not sure why a 3 rappel descent isn't recommended, since it effectively puts you at the base without walking? Anyway, rappel 60m from the summit, scramble down to next anchor at large pine tree, rappel 40m to another tree skier's left, rappel 20m to the ground, and walk 30m to the base of the formation.


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