Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community


Member Since: Sep 26, 2009
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Andy Hansen

Andy Hansen
is a member of
Point Rank: # 223
Total Points: 2,787

111 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Andy Hansen been climbing?










Contributions


All 3855 | Routes 80 | Areas 12 | Photos 252 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 544 | Posts 477 | Stars 1310 | Ratings 1179
Page 1 of 22.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Quarry Wall : Bone Collector aka Bone Cru... (5.12)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jan 6, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I'd call it a classic. The fatter your fingers, the better. I have pretty slender digits and found the crux to be bomber fingers to a desperate ring lock to some burl doggin' to a good rest. Gear is abundant and good bottom to top. Here's what I placed on the redpoint for those looking to dial it in: orange Metolius Mastercam, 0.3 Camalot, green C3, 0.4 Camalot, 0.4 Camalot, 0.5 Camalot, 0.75 Camalot, 0.5 Camalot, 0.75 Camalot. Tickle t... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Cat Burglar (5.12)
By: Andy Hansen When: Dec 29, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Personally I think Alex's rack recommendation is entirely off. A #1 or #2 Camalot under the roof with a long draw and then 4-5 .3 Camalots and 2-3 .4 Camalots.


Location:
By: Andy Hansen When: Dec 12, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Yo, it's Bill Murray. And Bobby Digital and the Genius!


Location: phil wortmann : Topos : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Dec 9, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Hmm... that doesn't look like RMNP...


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannabis Crag
By: Andy Hansen When: Dec 2, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Pretty sure it's a Brian McCray route. A few years ago we ran into him and he let us have a go on his new routes at the crag. I believe a route to the right of KGB, and to the right of Freak Brothers, went at around 12c or so... my friend Tony was able to climb it with Brian's good grace. Pretty cool moment in time with the local legend.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Unnamed II (fingers through... (5.10)
By: Andy Hansen When: Nov 28, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This is a classic pitch! It runs through the sizes from bottom to top yet provides a few rests along the way. I would also agree with Aimee that the crux is near the top. Anchors seem to be in an ideal position unless she was just saying they should be positioned lower as to avoid the wide climbing... get on this thing!


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Blue Gramma (5.11)
By: Andy Hansen When: Nov 27, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Pretty great route. Felt like 11b endurance liebacking with a few restful stances along the way. Gets steep at the top! Also, I mysteriously pulled off a softball sized flake about 2/3's of the way up the route. Even on well traveled routes there can still be objective hazard.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Punk Rock : Bits and Pieces (5.12c)
By: Andy Hansen When: Nov 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This is a nice, varied, and long route that is marred only by some flaky rock here and there. At first I thought bolt #4 was positioned a bit weird, but figure out the moves, and it'll all happen for ya. Nice job equipping this line - it's a nice piece of climbing!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : FM (5.11c)
By: Andy Hansen When: Nov 4, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: 2 pins and 2 fixed stoppers currently on this route. The 2nd pin is somewhat dubious, easily backed up with a 1" cam. Bizarre, unique, awkward, powerful, wonderful climbing.

For what it's worth, I stayed in the right dihedral of the double dihedral system. I didn't really find it necessary to step into the left dihedral system save for the very last move onto the good stance before the 5.9 climbing to the top. Perhaps a little hard for 11c... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Quarry Wall : Frank's Tame Years (5.11a)
By: Andy Hansen When: Nov 3, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A little crusty rock down low detracts from the overall quality of the route. A couple good jams and some interesting stemming down low lead to a no-hands rest before the "campus" crux which, in my opinion, is significantly easier following this corner versus the finger crack of Frank's Wild Years. With that in mind, a 5.10 leader should feel pretty comfortable on this. Single rack to 3" with a few small TCUs or C3s.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up (5.10c)
By: Andy Hansen When: Oct 31, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Ahem, scrappy not 'crappy' chimney.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Welcome to Red Rocks (5.12)
By: Andy Hansen When: Oct 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The 11a variation is good but hardly 11a. More like 10b. Good climbing, good but flaky rock at times. 5.12 corner is good old fashioned burl. Anchor is in fine shape and can be backed up with a #3 Camalot for a TR on the corner. Some shenanigans required to TR the 5.12- so just lead it! You really wouldn't need small stoppers cuz you won't have any stance in which to place them from. Small cams up to .75 or 1 would do the trick.


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Pinnacle : Batman and Robin (5.6)
By: Andy Hansen When: Sep 24, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Rap stations in the gully east of the pinnacle are in good condition. Not sure why a 3 rappel descent isn't recommended, since it effectively puts you at the base without walking? Anyway, rappel 60m from the summit, scramble down to next anchor at large pine tree, rappel 40m to another tree skier's left, rappel 20m to the ground, and walk 30m to the base of the formation.


Location: Washington : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Mt Triumph : NE Ridge (5.6 PG13)
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 31, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: With very minimal downclimbing and/or rope shenanigans this route can be easily rappelled or down climbed with a single 60m rope. There was only one station that seemed poor and therefore we skipped it and rappelled long to a decent ledge where we performed a belayed down climb. This type of descent mode seems par for the course on this route.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Pony Express (5.11c)
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 22, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I climbed this today in Kroenhoffer's and ate the mummified wasp carcasses in the crack on the second pitch as I climbed up, soloing. The remaining wasps I caught in my hands whilst handling the arete with my left hand and proceeded to eat them too. Needless to say, there are no more wasps in this mega-rig right now. I downclimbed after the second crux, which was perplexing to say the least, before the bolted anchor, because the rock was just a little too crumbly for my taste... more >>


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Jackson-Johnson (5.9)
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 17, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This is a decent route. Bring a lot of double length runners or suffer the consequences. The "5.9" pitch felt easily like 10- in my opinion. The bolts are, as noted previously, rather worthless. Standard rack to 3" with doubles in the #0.5-#1 Camalot size seemed sufficient. A lot of the advertised grading in Rossiter's guide felt a little sandbaggy but fun nonetheless.


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : Southwest Corner (5.9) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 12, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Ryan's just a HWDAMF so he probably fired up this, casually, and then cruised it to the summit... despite there being still a few more pitches left. That's how badass this guy is. Ryan, when are we going climbing again?


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Kor's Door (5.9-)
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Just another pitch breakdown and gear beta:

Approach: from the Mill's Glacier scramble, or short pitch, go up the loose, broken ledges left towards the obvious start of the route. This is all-in-all about 300' of low-5th class terrain.

P1: 180' 5.9. From the left side of the 'Door' work right into the corner with some cool stemming to reach the roof. Pull the awkward roof and belay at a stance.
... more >>


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Caleb, those people have all graduated from crowding the Petit Grepon to crowding the Casual Route. Get with the program.


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Syke's Sickle (5.9+)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 28, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Sorry, Pink Thunder, I'm with Fehim on this one. This route doesn't live up to the hype. Mediocre pitches lead to a stellar, albeit short, crux. The Barb is a significantly better route and only a letter grade harder....


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Original Fantasy Ridge (5.6)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 25, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: "5.6+".


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Joy and Tribulation (5.9 R)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 25, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Classic route. I climbed this route today and avoided the 5.9 R climbing by continuing up the initial crack system of P1 (instead of climbing out right onto the arete and L-facing corner) and belayed after 120' or so of climbing. I followed Sidewinder's 2nd pitch which was pleasant, albeit a bit grassy, to the ledge system below the chimney. 3rd pitch is phenomenal. The R rated climbing is easily avoidable and all in all still clocks in somewhere around 5.... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : Romancing the Stone (5.9)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 22, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This is a damn near classic route. There is a little bit of hollow rock here and there but nothing that's going to come off in a catastrophic way. I kept climbing past the anchors into the neighboring 10-, and this creates a really good mini-extension to an already awesome moderate. Doing the pitch this way, the route is exactly 30m. Tie knots in the end of the rope! All that's really necessary in terms of gear is a finger-sized cam for after the 2nd bolt ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Film Noir (5.12c)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 12, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Thought this was a great route on really good rock. I onsighted through the crux and then flamed out in the upper 5.11+ bit reaching the anchors. There is some sustained climbing after the crux that is not to be underestimated! Also, the bolting is a bit funky (bolts 8 & 9 could both have been placed 2' lower respectively), so having a long draw on the 8th bolt for your redpoint go would be nice. Otherwise, a fantastic route up a great swath of gently overhanging rock.


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Pear Buttress (5.8)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 4, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This goes nicely in 3 pitches:

P1. 55m, 5.8. Combine first two pitches, and belay at the fixed pin and nut anchor.

P2. 60m, 5.8. Combine third and fourth pitch, and belay about 30' below the cave.

P3. 25m, 5.7. Use the Hurley Traverse exit.

Classic route that is easily repeatable.


Page 1 of 22.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>