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Member Since: Mar 22, 2006
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Andy Bennett

Point Rank: # 3,061
Total Points: 235
Last Year: 46
Last 30 Days: 11
3 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Andy Bennett been climbing?










Contributions


All 237 | Routes 11 | Areas 1 | Photos 8 | Page Improvements | Comments 70 | Posts 79 | Stars 55 | Ratings 13
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Trend Generally Upwards (5.12-)
By: Andy Bennett When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Again, a 70M ROPE IS REQUIRED. Some may find the bolting on this rig a bit perplexing. Variable rock quality and the need to avoid marring classic routes necessitated the sometimes-odd bolt placement; my apologies. I hope you enjoy the route and Happy Climing!

-Andy B


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : Ice Pirates (5.11b)
By: Andy Bennett When: Sep 9, 2016

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Comments: Rowdy and somewhat desperate at 11-...this climb is a blast. I'll never forget the final moves. The bolt seems unnecessary and poorly-placed--there's a good placement nearby that keeps the rope in a safer line than if one used the bolt.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Catch the Wave (5.12d)
By: Andy Bennett When: Jul 20, 2016

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Comments: This is an outstanding route, even just the first half.

We've finished updating the bolts on the first section. Thanks to the ASCA for supplying hardware! I ventured up into the second part of the climb to discover fresh rock scars and very difficult climbing (for me!). It felt like hard 13. Geologic processes will take their course... I chose not to replace the mess of old hardware on this section, mainly because I couldn'@SE... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Booted from the Galley (5.12)
By: Andy Bennett When: Jul 20, 2016

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Comments: This route has been led on mainly gear by Austin Sobotka, who skipped the first three bolts and the final bolt in the Galley. After lengthy discussions about rock quality and safety, we chose not to remove these bolts. Although the rock at the bottom of the climb is decently-fissured, it is quite hollow and flexible and is marked by committing climbing. Choose your own adventure.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Baradur (5.11d)
By: Andy Bennett When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for sharing your stories Paul...that sounds like quite a day! And a partnership.

In response to your comment about the crux protection, I'll just say that I found plenty of thin gear, but I didn't really want to test it. I spent quite a long time building nests...but I think everything together would've been adequate to keep me above the roof corner. Placing it on-point is another matter...

I tried wrapping that same chicken-nub too, but gave up pretty fast when my crux attempts easily ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Lizard Marmalade Direct (5.10+)
By: Andy Bennett When: Mar 18, 2016

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Comments: It is just possible to rap off from the new anchor with a 70m rope, but DEFINITELY tie knots in the end (when do you ever not do this, right?) and keep a watchful eye as you descend. You'll probably end up at the end of your line on top of or just above the little pedestal at the start of the route. Make sure that your rope is in front of the tree branches before you start rapping, or it'll be hard to pull...


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Honker (5.12b)
By: Andy Bennett When: Dec 4, 2015

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Comments: ASCA update on old USE taper bolts 10/2015


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : Reef of Rocks
By: Andy Bennett When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: The oldest fixed line in the approach gully to Neptune has been replaced. For future reference:

Green and purple rope--c. 2012

Blue and gray rope--c. 2015

Thanks for the rope, Greg!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Neptune
By: Andy Bennett When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: The oldest fixed line in the approach gully to Neptune has been replaced. For future reference:

Green and purple rope--c. 2012

Blue and gray rope--c. 2015

Thanks for the rope, Greg!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 8 - Summit Crags : ... : Baradur (5.11d)
By: Andy Bennett When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: The first pitch of this thing is truly a gem. Funky, engaging corner climbing delivers you to a devious and tricky-to-protect crux that gives way to sheer 5.10 chicken head glory. The crux may be very difficult for those under ~5'10"...you may have to dyno? The second pitch is a head game with a pretty cool crux section.

The first pitch anchors have been updated to fat 1/2" SS bolts and hangers with links+rings. Thank you ASCA! The old 1/4" bolts broke un... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Old Man (5.9)
By: Andy Bennett When: Mar 24, 2015

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Comments: No Andrew, I don't think the ASCA will ever supply gear for anchor updates that don't involve truly suspect bolts. And using them here just because I was impatient and didn't have any others at the time was my Bush-league error. I've since made up for that by buying more identical gear, which I will use on future replacements. Will have to take a look at those anchors on Vistacruiser soon, what seemed suspect to you about them?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Arc Of A Diver (5.11c)
By: Andy Bennett When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: One of my favorite pitches at the Reef, this is a great intermediate warm-up for the harder climbs here.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Scuffle and Dust Cough (5.11- R)
By: Andy Bennett When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: This line is really not as dirty as it sounds or looks, and it deserves more traffic. It looks like it may have actually been brushed recently...Eric?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Odyssey (5.11-)
By: Andy Bennett When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: Charles, Greg told me that the small nut pulled out frighteningly easily when simply hand-tested. There is now a pretty well-fixed #7 stopper + biner and a bomber rap hanger in place. I tried to clean up some of the choss on pitch 3, but I managed to lose my prybar in the process! It's still pretty loose up there...


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Oops I sharted (5.11+)
By: Andy Bennett When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: Steeper and slightly harder than the crux pitch of Pissgums, but thankfully a bit shorter. I'd recommend thin kneepads, thick pants, and long sleeves, plus a tape glove for the left hand. There is some pretty loose and questionable rock on the third pitch that the leader must gingerly tiptoe around, be careful. 2 #6's will indeed make you feel a whole lot better. Have...fun?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Steep Short Green Streak (5.11-)
By: Andy Bennett When: Jan 2, 2014

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Comments: The third pitch of this route is an excellent stemming corner. From the top of Pitch 1, the leader can continue up and slightly right over easy 3rd class terrain to a group of small trees; here it may be possible to belay off of the trees+gear (we came in later from the saddle after realizing that there was a 2nd and 3rd pitch). Climb the short approach "pitch" (5.9) and gain a ledge with bolt anchors to the left. Climb the exceptional corner! All pitches are well bolted, but ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Golder Dome : Ten Years After (5.10+)
By: Andy Bennett When: Mar 12, 2013

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Comments: Bringing some extra webbing and a knife is a good idea out here in the Pusch. We cleaned up all of the old tat on Ten Years, but what we left will be outdated by the time the summer sun is done with it. This climb sports surprisingly solid rock that climbs quite well, it's definitely one of the better backcountry lines that I've been on in the local area.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : FIUTT (5.9)
By: Andy Bennett When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: We did the 5.10 finish the other day and it's well-worth doing. It's tricky but not impossible to protect. Save as many aid/tips/finger size pieces, slings, and RPs as you can, as well as a hands-size cam, for this direct finish. Belay off your harness against the front of the alcove that you top-out in (bad rock quality for anchors), or use the pine tree way behind you; I'm not sure if a 70m would make it back to the ground, mine doesn't have a middle mark...This climb could use a bol... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Straight Arrow (5.10+ PG13)
By: Andy Bennett When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: It's the slot's rock quality, not the geometry of the placement, that gave me the heebies...it's one of those placements ringed with that dark, crispy crust that you become so terribly familiar with after trad-climbing on Lemmon for awhile. Leading this pre-cams would probably have been much harder!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Straight Arrow (5.10+ PG13)
By: Andy Bennett When: Dec 14, 2012

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Comments: Not 5.10 and (still) not safe. I finally figured out the #2 hex placement. You can get something else there, too, that will make you feel a little better about life before launching into the crux. Great climbing through the crux, but the choss begins sprouting higher up...


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Westworld Dome : Coati Corner (5.11-)
By: Andy Bennett When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: I, too, was surprised by the bolts. I climbed nearly the entire route on gear, placing only one micro-cam that really wasn't necessary, and felt very safe the whole time...very safe even by Cochise standards. I did clip the last bolt, but the fixed nut is only 2' or 3' below...mental strength? The anchors are just above that last bolt... Surprising and disappointing. Perhaps the bolts should be removed. Sounds like a tremendous lead by Kerry, nevertheless! And a completely killer route.

What's ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Odyssey (5.11-)
By: Andy Bennett When: Nov 1, 2012

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Comments: I spoke with Steve Grossman and he gave the approval to leave the new bolt as is, thus creating a safe belay with one bolt and semi-fixed gear (the nut pulled, I've been told). Now you can climb the entire 2nd pitch in all its glory to a logical, safe belay. Thanks to Geir for pulling the old bolts at the "mid-way-belay".

If you're feeling frisky, continue on through the 3rd and 4th pitch. Wear a helmet.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Magnus Veritas (5.11)
By: Andy Bennett When: Oct 24, 2012

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Comments: Thoughts of climbing this one have long chilled my blood but, once we finally sacked up to it, it wasn't so bad. You're really more likely the star in a flick chock full of obscenities than a gory maul-fest. I'll say that if you can confidently pull the well-protected cruxes of the 2nd pitch, you should have no trouble with the "PG-13/Soft-R" run-outs above. As the poster notes, new bolts may have made this one much safer than it was BITD; of course you can always stay left and avoid t... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Sabrina Basin Bouldering
By: Andy Bennett When: Jul 29, 2012

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Comments: as far as I know there are no established problems. I found a lot of fun stuff. Go have an adventure and tell us what you find...


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Photo
By: Andy Bennett When: Jun 19, 2012

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Comments: The direct start-that is, starting under the little roof in the middle of the picture and climbing directly into the finger crack-is excellent.


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