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Member Since: Feb 25, 2013
Last Visit: 55 mins ago
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Andrew G
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Point Rank: # 2,285
Total Points: 278

8 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 753 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 42 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 79 | Posts 78 | Stars 293 | Ratings 253
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Maine : Acadia National Park : The Precipice aka The South... : Story of O (5.6)
By: Andrew G When: 6 days ago

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Comments: I was behind another group, so broke it into the full 3 pitches. It felt like a high ratio of work to actual climbing-- I think 2 pitches would have made for a more enjoyable climb. The second pitch is pretty great, but the third pitch is basically a (fun) 15 ft V1 boulder problem and then scrambling to the chains.


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Triple S (5.8+)
By: Andrew G When: Jun 23, 2017

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Comments: I have nothing to say that hasn't already been said about the first pitch. The second pitch is a stark contrast-- loose and a bit awkward, but certainly easier. Follow the line straight up and it spits you out right near Traffic Jam notch.


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : South End : Ecstasy (5.7)
By: Andrew G When: Jun 23, 2017

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Comments: I thought this climb was a lot of fun. Definitely on the soft side for a Seneca 7, but great position on the 2nd and 3rd pitch, good pro the whole way. Not a visually distinct line from the ground, but follows the path of least resistance.


Location: West Virginia : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Neck Press (5.7)
By: Andrew G When: Jun 23, 2017

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Comments: This is a hard 5.7, even by Seneca standards. First pitch is mostly a tips crack in the corner that leaves you searching for decent feet. The second pitch is mostly easy, but has a distinct crux in the mini-chimney that's probably more tricky than purely difficult. IMHO, the 3rd pitch was the best-- hero climbing up twin cracks that keep kicking back in angle with some great exposure. Pitch 2 and 3 can be linked without adding a ton of rope drag.

Wish I would have grabbed some pictures sinc... more >>


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Rico Suave Buttress : The Good Old Days (5.9)
By: Andrew G When: May 30, 2017

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Comments: The nice "hand crack" in the corner is a hand crack for 2 or 3 moves in the middle. It starts out as tips and steadily widens to wider than fists at the top. Fun climb, bring a number 4 for the top, or two if you really want to sew it up.


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake (main) : The Satisfaction Wall : Make Way For Dyklings (5.10a)
By: Andrew G When: May 30, 2017

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Comments: The opening moves were easily the hardest on the route, and might actually warrant the 10d rating given in the picture. Pretty solid sand bag at 10a for that reason. Once I got established on the route, the rest of it felt more like 10a.


Location: Maryland : Annapolis Rock : Photo
By: Andrew G When: Apr 21, 2017

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Comments: These are nice overview photos! Sunset wall is a bit further down than where you have it marked, about halfway between the marking for Faint's Roof and the Fin. It's a little more obvious as a separate outcropping in the satellite photo you also posted.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Miller Fork Recreational Pr... : Fruit Wall : Hourglass Crack (5.10d)
By: Andrew G When: Apr 11, 2017

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Comments: This thing could definitely use some more traffic. There was a thick coat of sand on a lot of the large edges I grabbed and some general mank that made it difficult to trust the smears in the first 1/3. I also knocked a VHS-sized block off about 50 ft up. There's at least one other loose jug that's going to get ripped out soon, and probably a good bit more. Definitely don't be hanging out under this route if someone is on it. The belaye... more >>


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : The Gallery : Starry Night (5.12a)
By: Andrew G When: Apr 11, 2017

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Comments: I thought the start actually had the hardest moves, especially pulling up onto the ledge. (BETA ALERT: there's a crucial hidden pocket on the right side of the pedestal.) From there's it's pumpy and awesome hero climbing.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : The Gallery : Gold Rush (5.11d)
By: Andrew G When: Apr 11, 2017

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Comments: This route is so good. Sustained and flowy 11- to the 7th bolt, a crimpy boulder problem to the next bolt, a bit of a rest, then another crimpy boulder problem culminating in a throw to the finishing the jug. Avoid the big sucker jug flake out left at the top and commit to the big move.


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall : ... : Photo
By: Andrew G When: Feb 13, 2017

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Comments: This photo is probably a panoramic, because it will not look this short or low angle at the top when you see it!


Location: Maryland : Annapolis Rock : The South End : Cynosure (5.10b R)
By: Andrew G When: Feb 12, 2017

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Comments: For what it's worth, the guidebook describes this line as finishing to the right of the overhangs at the top, not joining Black Crack to the left.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : The Gambler (5.11-)
By: Andrew G When: Jan 17, 2017

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Comments: Fun movement and a nice change of style from the other 11's on the wall. Gave me a couple of those "what the... maybe... OHHH... how cool!" sequences.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Sweet Pain (5.11d)
By: Andrew G When: Nov 15, 2016

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Comments: i second james's comment above. probably earns at least soft 11d if you take it straight up. more important than the grade though, it's a fun sequence to work out. don't cheat yourself out of an interesting crux!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Sweet Pain (5.11d) : Photo
By: Andrew G When: Nov 15, 2016

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Comments: the big holds way out left (not right) are nice and all, but the moves getting back to the bolt line aren't much easier than the moves you're avoiding. taking the more natural line straight up flows so much nicer and doesn't put you into awkward fall zone.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Have a Beer with Fear (5.11a)
By: Andrew G When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: Felt harder than Caustic to me. Definitely wouldn't want to fall pulling the awkward (but fun!) move onto the pedestal after the first bolt. Enjoyable route that's basically two very different boulder problems.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : What's Eating You (5.10a)
By: Andrew G When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: First bolt is definitely high, but it's like 5.5 jugs getting there.


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall : Rapscallion's Blues (5.10c)
By: Andrew G When: Sep 20, 2016

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Comments: Solid for the grade, takes good gear the whole way except the right trending rail before the first roof. (There may actually be good gear there but if this climb is anywhere near your limit like it was for me, good luck stopping to place it.) Really cool climb though that delivers a punch with each of the 4 cruxes.


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : South Side Crags : The Other Place : Flaming Pellets (5.11b)
By: Andrew G When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: Consistent, fun movement on this route. Belayer should be mindful as the climber makes the moves to get established on the crescent shaped rail at the second bolt. Felt a little soft for 11b at the New, but not enough to downgrade it.


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fern Point : Mellifluous (5.11a)
By: Andrew G When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: Now available with with fixed pro just below the slab crux! #2 DMM Wallnut, I believe.

Incredibly fun route. Also the most approachable 11 I've found at the NRG for breaking into the grade. Not because it's easy necessarily, but you can at least get a little bit off the ground and get some pro in before it really comes at you. The crux protects well enough and the fall is as clean as can be for a slab. After that, it's probably n... more >>


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall : ... : Photo
By: Andrew G When: Sep 8, 2016

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Comments: disagree. i found that section to be the crux


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall : New Yosemite (5.9)
By: Andrew G When: Aug 18, 2016

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Comments: Great crack to learn jamming on. The bottom will be a little wide, especially if you've got smaller hands, but it quickly narrows down just a bit to pretty much perfect hands.

Also: beware the sucker jug out right. Getting back into the crack from it is a bitch.


Location: Maryland : Sugarloaf Mountain : Middle Earth : Seven Wishes (5.6)
By: Andrew G When: Jul 1, 2016

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Comments: Pulling that initial overhang sure felt a lot harder than 5.6 to me. Very fun climb though, nice and direct.


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake (main) : Orange Oswald Wall : Hippie Dreams (5.7)
By: Andrew G When: Jun 30, 2016

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Comments: Popular because it's easy, not necessarily because the climbing is great


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Hidden Valley Campground Bo... : HVCG Bouldering Circuit : ... : Holenoid (aka The Grundle f... (V0+)
By: Andrew G When: Apr 27, 2016

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Comments: there's a bomber fist jam to be had up there


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