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Member Since: Feb 25, 2013
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Andrew G
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Point Rank: # 2,587
Total Points: 303

11 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 830 | Routes 7 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 46 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 91 | Posts 86 | Stars 326 | Ratings 273
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Indian Cove > Indian Cove Campground > Condor Rock > The Falcon (5.10b)
By: Andrew G When: Dec 15, 2017

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Comments: A really tenuous line for me. I felt like I could have fallen from just about anywhere on the route (and did fall from the opening finger crack... tricky feet!). It's all there though if you can trust it. There are some obvious spots that take bomber gear, but if you want to sew it up more than that (I did), then the gear can definitely get tricky.


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Indian Cove > Indian Cove Campground > Moosedog Tower > Bitch in Heat (5.7)
By: Andrew G When: Dec 13, 2017

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Comments: The "crack line" was more a series of flakes and features, some a bit hollow. Crux seemed to be pulling the left angling crack to a stance below the (super fun!) slab.


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Sheep Pass Area > Hall of Horrors Area > Hall of Horrors > ... > Exorcist (5.10a)
By: Andrew G When: Dec 8, 2017

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Comments: The big horn that provides so much relief visibly vibrates if you give it a kick. It might not come off tomorrow or next year or next decade, but it's definitely coming off sometime.

Felt hard for the grade, but really good. The crack, and particularly the feet, are a bit polished, making for for some strenuous gear placements! If you think the crux is a big reach to the jug at the bolt, I suspect you're missing a good crimp out right. You have to trust some marginal feet, but nothing worse ... more >>


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Lost Horse Area > Freeway Wall > Upper Freeway Wall > Anacram (5.10c)
By: Andrew G When: Dec 7, 2017

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Comments: Stellar climbing, I'd give it 4 stars except for the loose flakes (including the huge undercling after the initial bolt). Thin and technical and stays at you!

I didn't use anything larger than a 0.75 on the route, and most of it was much smaller than that. A 2 and 3 are useful for the anchor though.


Location: West Virginia > Franklin Gorge > Main Wall > Impact Zone > Anchors Away (5.9+)
By: Andrew G When: Nov 20, 2017

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Comments: A much easier and more condensed version of its neighbor-- juggy overhung climbing to technical crimping.


Location: West Virginia > The New River Gorge > New River Gorge Proper > Bridge Area > Bridge Buttress > High Times (5.10+)
By: Andrew G When: Oct 9, 2017

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Comments: 4 star climbing all the way, just too bad it's so short. Still a fantastic line though. The guidebook describes the top as "rattly finger", but they felt pretty sinker to me. The feet, or lack thereof, is what makes it cruxy.


Location: West Virginia > The New River Gorge > Meadow River Gorge > Upper Meadow > Zero Buttress > Restless Leg Syndrome (5.11a)
By: Andrew G When: Oct 8, 2017

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Comments: Felt pretty 11a to me, though just for 2-3 moves at the crux. The rest of the route was pretty cruiser.


Location: Europe > Italy > Dolomites > Cinque Torri Group > Torre Latina > Via Normale (Northeast Wall... (5.3)
By: Andrew G When: Sep 14, 2017

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Comments: This felt a lot more like scrambling than climbing to me, though the fall consequences warrant 5th class. Not interesting from a climbing perspective, but an easy romp to gain a tower summit!

You could definitely make the top in one pitch with a 70m, and I think you could probably do it with a 60m as well, but it'd be close.


Location: West Virginia > The New River Gorge > New River Gorge Proper > Beauty Mountain > Burning Buttress > ... > Photo
By: Andrew G When: Aug 29, 2017

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Comments: used that same #1 placement and breathed a heavy sigh of relief


Location: West Virginia > The New River Gorge > Meadow River Gorge > Upper Meadow > Second Buttress > Ikar Lost (5.10c)
By: Andrew G When: Aug 28, 2017

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Comments: There's a distinct crux about half way up getting from a bomber hand jam to a flat block, the rest is pretty chill


Location: West Virginia > The New River Gorge > Meadow River Gorge > Upper Meadow > Second Buttress > Bullocks (5.9)
By: Andrew G When: Aug 28, 2017

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Comments: ^ seconded

Getting to the second bolt was no joke (fortunately, the spacing is tight and safe between the first and second bolts).


Location: West Virginia > The New River Gorge > New River Gorge Proper > Beauty Mountain > The Brain > Out of Mind (5.10a)
By: Andrew G When: Aug 28, 2017

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Comments: Basically a V1 boulder problem to gain the face and place your first piece of gear, then a cruiser (but pretty fun!) 5.7 to the top.


Location: Maine > Acadia National Park > The Precipice aka The South... > Story of O (5.6)
By: Andrew G When: Jul 22, 2017

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Comments: I was behind another group, so broke it into the full 3 pitches. It felt like a high ratio of work to actual climbing-- I think 2 pitches would have made for a more enjoyable climb. The second pitch is pretty great, but the third pitch is basically a (fun) 15 ft V1 boulder problem and then scrambling to the chains.


Location: West Virginia > Seneca Rocks > South Peak - West Face > Triple S (5.8+)
By: Andrew G When: Jun 23, 2017

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Comments: I have nothing to say that hasn't already been said about the first pitch. The second pitch is a stark contrast-- loose and a bit awkward, but certainly easier. Follow the line straight up and it spits you out right near Traffic Jam notch.


Location: West Virginia > Seneca Rocks > South End > Ecstasy (5.7)
By: Andrew G When: Jun 23, 2017

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Comments: I thought this climb was a lot of fun. Definitely on the soft side for a Seneca 7, but great position on the 2nd and 3rd pitch, good pro the whole way. Not a visually distinct line from the ground, but follows the path of least resistance.


Location: West Virginia > Seneca Rocks > South Peak - West Face > Neck Press (5.7)
By: Andrew G When: Jun 23, 2017

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Comments: This is a hard 5.7, even by Seneca standards. First pitch is mostly a tips crack in the corner that leaves you searching for decent feet. The second pitch is mostly easy, but has a distinct crux in the mini-chimney that's probably more tricky than purely difficult. IMHO, the 3rd pitch was the best-- hero climbing up twin cracks that keep kicking back in angle with some great exposure. Pitch 2 and 3 can be linked without adding a ton of rope drag.

Wish I would have grabbed some pictures sinc... more >>


Location: West Virginia > The New River Gorge > New River Gorge Proper > Kaymoor > Rico Suave Buttress > The Good Old Days (5.9)
By: Andrew G When: May 30, 2017

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Comments: The nice "hand crack" in the corner is a hand crack for 2 or 3 moves in the middle. It starts out as tips and steadily widens to wider than fists at the top. Fun climb, bring a number 4 for the top, or two if you really want to sew it up.


Location: West Virginia > The New River Gorge > Summersville and Gauley Riv... > Summersville Lake (main) > The Satisfaction Wall > Make Way For Dyklings (5.10a)
By: Andrew G When: May 30, 2017

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Comments: The opening moves were easily the hardest on the route, and might actually warrant the 10d rating given in the picture. Pretty solid sand bag at 10a for that reason. Once I got established on the route, the rest of it felt more like 10a.


Location: Maryland > Annapolis Rock > Photo
By: Andrew G When: Apr 21, 2017

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Comments: These are nice overview photos! Sunset wall is a bit further down than where you have it marked, about halfway between the marking for Faint's Roof and the Fin. It's a little more obvious as a separate outcropping in the satellite photo you also posted.


Location: Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Miller Fork Recreational Pr... > Fruit Wall > Hourglass Crack (5.10d)
By: Andrew G When: Apr 11, 2017

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Comments: This thing could definitely use some more traffic. There was a thick coat of sand on a lot of the large edges I grabbed and some general mank that made it difficult to trust the smears in the first 1/3. I also knocked a VHS-sized block off about 50 ft up. There's at least one other loose jug that's going to get ripped out soon, and probably a good bit more. Definitely don't be hanging out under this route if someone is on it. The belayer is actually safe though since they're tuck... more >>


Location: Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... > The Gallery > Starry Night (5.12a)
By: Andrew G When: Apr 11, 2017

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Comments: I thought the start actually had the hardest moves, especially pulling up onto the ledge. (BETA ALERT: there's a crucial hidden pocket on the right side of the pedestal.) From there's it's pumpy and awesome hero climbing.


Location: Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... > The Gallery > Gold Rush (5.11d)
By: Andrew G When: Apr 11, 2017

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Comments: This route is so good. Sustained and flowy 11- to the 7th bolt, a crimpy boulder problem to the next bolt, a bit of a rest, then another crimpy boulder problem culminating in a throw to the finishing the jug. Avoid the big sucker jug flake out left at the top and commit to the big move.


Location: West Virginia > The New River Gorge > New River Gorge Proper > Junkyard Area > Junkyard Wall > ... > Photo
By: Andrew G When: Feb 13, 2017

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Comments: This photo is probably a panoramic, because it will not look this short or low angle at the top when you see it!


Location: Maryland > Annapolis Rock > The South End > Cynosure (5.10b R)
By: Andrew G When: Feb 12, 2017

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Comments: For what it's worth, the guidebook describes this line as finishing to the right of the overhangs at the top, not joining Black Crack to the left.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Second Pullout > Sweet Pain Wall > The Gambler (5.11-)
By: Andrew G When: Jan 17, 2017

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Comments: Fun movement and a nice change of style from the other 11's on the wall. Gave me a couple of those "what the... maybe... OHHH... how cool!" sequences.


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