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Andrew Leader

Bellevue, WA
Male

Member Since
Jul 17, 2015
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
1,375 Points
Point Rank: #1,229 DetailsDrop down

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Ticks View All 716

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 134
Positively 4th Street
Apr 23, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Clean other than hang at bottom while getting a #1 unstuck (start was really tough, and it takes 0.75). Used 0.5-3 with triple #0.75, and then double 1-3, no nuts, linked 1-2. Didn’t need the 0.4’s. Didn’t use my third #1-2. Double alpine draw useful for lower P2, save a 0.75 for above roof, it’s a bit draggy when berating follower. Crack gloves useful. 0.5 goes at the very end.
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 1,307
Snake Dike
Apr 22, 2024 · Brought 0.3-2 with double 0.5, no nuts, 70m rope, should have brought 3 double alpine draws, 3 single alpine, and only 2 sport. Only one alpine cordelette was good and two double cordelette anchors. Really runout, but it is a really cool way to do Half Dome as a loop. 3 stars for views and uniqueness factor, but not sure I’d do it again. If it had more bolts it’d be so fun, the dike pitches are really cool other than the extreme runout. 13hrs car-to-car. Snow free, route is dry (except on descent after cables).
Trad 8 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 72
76 Degrees in the Shade
Apr 21, 2024 · Lead / Flash. Barely got it clean, brought 0.3-2, possibly doubles. Upper section goes from 0.75 down to 0.3. Anchor only has links (no clips). First half is super fun and all bolted.
Trad, Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 79
Something Good
Apr 21, 2024 · Lead / Flash. Kinda fun! Used 0.2-2 with double 0.75-2 and 3 nuts. Clips at anchor.
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 241
Iron Messiah
Apr 20, 2024 · 3 pitches. Lead / Fell/Hung. Only did first 3 pitches (5.4, 5.9, 5.8) then rapped with single 70m, it was too hot! First 5.4 pitch kinda annoying, face 5.9 pitch is kinda freaking tough with a pack on (it’s all pitons), hung on one. Third 5.8 pitch has some chimney. Fourth sandy groove pitch looked runout at the start. If I continued, I’d probably link P3-4 since the belay for top of P3 is awkwardly on the left pillar and then you’d have to move the belay.
Trad 10 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 463
The Headache
Apr 19, 2024 · Lead / Flash. Quite a bit of fantastic climbing! P1 is nearly all #2 face crack, I could have placed 4 or 5 of them. P2 and 3 are more varied, P2 was my favorite. Brought and used 1 #0.3, 2x 0.4-0.5, 3x 0.75-2, 2 #3's, 1 #4, no nuts, and about 8 draws with half alpines. That was about perfect (only ~2 cams left each pitch). Double rope rapped with pull cord.
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Positively 4th Street Yosemite NP > … > D. Camp 4 Area > 2. Lower Brother
 134
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Apr 23, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Clean other than hang at bottom while getting a #1 unstuck (start was really tough, and it takes 0.75). Used 0.5-3 with triple #0.75, and then double 1-3, no nuts, linked 1-2. Didn’t need the 0.4’s. Didn’t use my third #1-2. Double alpine draw useful for lower P2, save a 0.75 for above roof, it’s a bit draggy when berating follower. Crack gloves useful. 0.5 goes at the very end.
Snake Dike Yosemite NP > … > D. Half Dome > 3. Southwest Face
 1,307
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 8 pitches
Apr 22, 2024 · Brought 0.3-2 with double 0.5, no nuts, 70m rope, should have brought 3 double alpine draws, 3 single alpine, and only 2 sport. Only one alpine cordelette was good and two double cordelette anchors. Really runout, but it is a really cool way to do Half Dome as a loop. 3 stars for views and uniqueness factor, but not sure I’d do it again. If it had more bolts it’d be so fun, the dike pitches are really cool other than the extreme runout. 13hrs car-to-car. Snow free, route is dry (except on descent after cables).
76 Degrees in the Shade Yosemite NP > … > 7. Lower Cathed… > N Buttress Base Routes
 72
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Apr 21, 2024 · Lead / Flash. Barely got it clean, brought 0.3-2, possibly doubles. Upper section goes from 0.75 down to 0.3. Anchor only has links (no clips). First half is super fun and all bolted.
Something Good Yosemite NP > … > 7. Lower Cathed… > N Buttress Base Routes
 79
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Apr 21, 2024 · Lead / Flash. Kinda fun! Used 0.2-2 with double 0.75-2 and 3 nuts. Clips at anchor.
Iron Messiah Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Spearhead
 241
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 10 pitches
Apr 20, 2024 · 3 pitches. Lead / Fell/Hung. Only did first 3 pitches (5.4, 5.9, 5.8) then rapped with single 70m, it was too hot! First 5.4 pitch kinda annoying, face 5.9 pitch is kinda freaking tough with a pack on (it’s all pitons), hung on one. Third 5.8 pitch has some chimney. Fourth sandy groove pitch looked runout at the start. If I continued, I’d probably link P3-4 since the belay for top of P3 is awkwardly on the left pillar and then you’d have to move the belay.
The Headache Southwest Utah > … > Mt Carmel Tunnel > Headache Area
 463
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Apr 19, 2024 · Lead / Flash. Quite a bit of fantastic climbing! P1 is nearly all #2 face crack, I could have placed 4 or 5 of them. P2 and 3 are more varied, P2 was my favorite. Brought and used 1 #0.3, 2x 0.4-0.5, 3x 0.75-2, 2 #3's, 1 #4, no nuts, and about 8 draws with half alpines. That was about perfect (only ~2 cams left each pitch). Double rope rapped with pull cord.

Tick Breakdown
Trad Sport Boulder Ice

Pitches Routes Days Out
90 Days 65 42 17
Last Year 317 149 55
5 Years 1,233 646 217
All Time 1,360 716 249

Where Andrew Climbs

TradSportTRBoulderIce
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