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Member Since: Feb 28, 2006
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
Contact Alexey

Point Rank: # 847
Total Points: 975

13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Alexey been climbing?










Contributions


All 558 | Routes 37 | Areas 7 | Approach Trails | Photos 100 | Page Improvements | Comments 174 | Posts 30 | Stars 165 | Ratings 45
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Lower Merced River Canyon > 6 - Finger Lickin' Area > Lifeline (5.12a)
By: Alexey When: 4 days ago

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Comments: what is thin line left from Lifeline start? I was thinking that upper part of Lifeline was established before with left start? am I wrong?


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Mecca
By: Alexey When: Nov 1, 2017

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Comments: Vlad is correct. Can Administrator delete all " Mecca" area along with all submitted routes. Mecca is a part of Lower Cathedral area. There listed all Mecca routes with sufficient description.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Yosemite Falls Area > Lower Falls Amphitheatre > Bear-Huggy Arete (5.12d)
By: Alexey When: Oct 31, 2017

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Comments: too many bears hanging arete. there already one just added month ago


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Lower Merced River Canyon > 21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area > Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Rout... (5.10a) > Photo
By: Alexey When: Sep 25, 2017

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Comments: cruiser?


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Lower Merced River Canyon > 7 - Roadside Attraction > River Boulder (5.11d)
By: Alexey When: Sep 13, 2017

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Comments: most of the time of the year landing from lip going to be into shallow water with some rocks [ bad landing]


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Sentinel Rock > Steck-Salathe (5.10-)
By: Alexey When: Aug 1, 2017

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Comments: I would recommend instead of brining #6 - take with you on the route new Sloan free climbing book. It weight little bit more than #6, but will be more useful and bring much more fun


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Loggerhead Buttress > Conquest of the Stud Monkey (5.10a)
By: Alexey When: May 16, 2017

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Comments: twice,- 7 years ago and now I confused this climb with Simian Sex.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Loggerhead Buttress > Chow Chow Chow (5.10c)
By: Alexey When: May 14, 2017

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Comments: it is possible that something broke in the lover part of the climb that it felt now like 5.11, not 5.10 anymore


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Lower Cathedral Rock > Overhang Overpass (5.11c)
By: Alexey When: May 1, 2017

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Comments: crux is really bad size : wide open purple / very tight green camalots. Crux is relatively short no more than 10 feet, but harder than any 11c I tried in the Valley . Stunning line


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Lower Merced River Canyon > 7 - Roadside Attraction > River Boulder (5.11d)
By: Alexey When: Feb 8, 2017

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Comments: Russ, no surprise that you noticed this ..LOL
Basically I quoted your old comments about taping you posted on Butterballs, but politically correct


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Lower Merced River Canyon > 21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area > Independence Pinnacle, Cent... (5.10d)
By: Alexey When: Feb 5, 2017

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Comments: Sloan even not able to copy properly information from for other sources, like mountain project or else , because he was in hurry. The book is garbage except of photos. But successful garbage in term of how many people got it.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Photo
By: Alexey When: Jan 11, 2017

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Comments: Meat Grinder corner is hottest place


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Leaning Tower Area > Fifi Buttress > Voyager (5.11c)
By: Alexey When: Nov 17, 2016

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Comments: Barabata, there is nothing to discuss more with you privately. Yes this is not a discussion forum but it is you, not me who started this choping-bolting shit. If you want to delete your posts, I can delete mine after you do it. If you are worry [really?] about numbers of bolts on this particular routes you can PM Dan McDevitt & Ryan Kelly via ST- [where they have nick names as McDevitt, ryankelly ] I am sure they will answer to your questions why they did this route this way and not othe... more >>


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Leaning Tower Area > Fifi Buttress > Voyager (5.11c)
By: Alexey When: Nov 16, 2016

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Comments: Babarata, no one "owned this particular piece of rock", but but there are simple thighs like respect to other climbers who put a lot of work and thoughts when they developed a new route. And respect to other climbers who climbed this route and enjoy it how it is. Chopping the bolts on other climbers routes is equally disgusting as adding bolts to someone else route without consent of FA party. Be aware that since no one "owned this particular piece of rock" you can find the ... more >>


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Leaning Tower Area > Fifi Buttress > Voyager (5.11c)
By: Alexey When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: Bababata, in my opinion "pretty bad ethical example" is to chop someone else route, just to spray how "cool" you are. Go climb something harder and less protected


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Lower Merced River Canyon > 30 - The Rostrum > The North Face (5.11c) > Photo
By: Alexey When: Oct 19, 2016

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Comments: is it 10d right variation flare/flake?


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Leaning Tower Area > Fifi Buttress > Center of the Universe (5.11-)
By: Alexey When: Oct 14, 2016

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Comments: In addition what Jose said above, do not use Sloan book for the new routes [ assuming that for old routes he correctly copied topo and beta] . The bear N46 is hiding in ambush on the ledge on top of p4 ( where Sloan recommended to leave your launch, water, additional gear and whisky) waiting to tear up your backpack, eat you launch and later sell your gear on e-bay and pay royalty to Sloan.
Instead of going on Voyager ledge , take the same approach as for Voyager in the first 20 min, but take... more >>


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Lower Merced River Canyon > 32 - Elephant Rock > Crack of Doom (5.10a)
By: Alexey When: Mar 7, 2016

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Comments: I did not know that "Crack of Doom" has also biblical meaning
Crack of Doom is an old term used for the Christian Day of Judgement

ouvirmusica.com.br/the-tiger-l...


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Lower Merced River Canyon > 4 - Arch Rock > Supplication (5.10c)
By: Alexey When: Jan 19, 2016

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Comments: the second pitch has different name. It called "Intersanctum" and done by Dan McDevitt around 2010


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Pistol Whipped > Spaghetti Western (5.11) > Photo
By: Alexey When: Dec 21, 2015

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Comments: good catch by photographer. Does not look like staged.
good that no one injured, cheers


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Lower Merced River Canyon > 10 - The Cookie Cliff > Vendetta (5.10b)
By: Alexey When: Dec 13, 2015

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Comments: try to do it at day light..
By the end of p2/3 the crack just kept getting narrover and narrover ;-)


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Yosemite Valley Bouldering > Mist Trail Boulders > ... > Cedar Eater (V5)
By: Alexey When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: directions from ST tread
supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2...
whitemeat:
You are on the mist trail, and you are before the bridge that takes you to the granite steps. There is a part where you drop down a hill and you come across a big mossy overhang thing on the left side. This big roof/overhang will attract you because you are a climber! Every time i walk by I think, wow, that would be cool... There might even be chalk on the base.. Right across fr... more >>


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Lower Merced River Canyon > 32 - Elephant Rock > Crack of Doom (5.10a)
By: Alexey When: Sep 22, 2015

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Comments: Chad's trip report from 2012
supertopo.com/tr/Into-the-womb...

and couple of Peter Haan quotes from other ST treads :

supertopo.com/climbing/thread....

I did maybe the 4th ascent of The Crack of Doom back in 1972 with a newcomer from the Northwest, Mark Fielding (sp?). It is an incredible route, extremely burly looking; you feel quite serious doing it.

The first pitch is a very steep black lieback/combo... more >>


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Lower Merced River Canyon > 32 - Elephant Rock > Crack of Despair (5.10a)
By: Alexey When: Sep 22, 2015

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Higgins at the crux of the route ( from 1972 c...
Tom Higgins at the crux of the route ( from 1972 climbing mag)



Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Lower Merced River Canyon > 32 - Elephant Rock > Crack of Despair (5.10a)
By: Alexey When: Sep 21, 2015

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Comments: We did not link the pitches.
P2 - OW pitch consists from two sections - 5-6 inch ow and higher up 9 inch flare. Flare is the crux of the route and hard for the grade.
On p3 I was trying to get into secure chimney system to avoid to go for unprotected outside.
After taking off my helmet and chest harness with the gear- I still was not able to pass-throuh after fighting for inches more than half-hour. I am relatively small and had no problem on Harding slot


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