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Member Since: Apr 20, 2007
Last Visit: Jun 29, 2017
Contact Alexander Nees

Point Rank: # 1,111
Total Points: 645

7 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Alexander Nees been climbing?










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All 496 | Routes 45 | Areas 6 | Photos 36 | Page Improvements | Comments 59 | Posts 56 | Stars 193 | Ratings 101
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Incredible Hand Crack (5.10)
By: Alexander Nees When: Mar 9, 2011

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Comments: For anyone who wants additional evidence of the changes that have occurred on this route from all the traffic...

Rock Climbing Photo: What IHC used to look like!  Taken from the origin...
What IHC used to look like! Taken from the original 1988 "Desert Rock" (Bjornstad). The changes are obvious compared to recent photos of the route here on MP.


Back then, the crack was parallel, the edge was crisp, and there weren't any wear marks. No doubt that this climb is getting beat out.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Generic Crack (5.10-)
By: Alexander Nees When: Mar 9, 2011

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Comments: For what it's worth, Generic Crack was rated 5.10- back in 1988 in Bjornstad's original "Desert Rock" guidebook. This was maybe the first published guide to the Creek (?), so the rating at least has some basis in history.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 10 - The Cookie Cliff : Catchy (5.10d)
By: Alexander Nees When: Mar 4, 2011

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Comments: I've done this route only once... but I'm not sure where this flexing jug is at the top. I made the big move, reached up, and just dropped a handjam in the slot at the top. Seemed the obvious way to do it, and I didn't notice any looseness or flexing that way.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : The Kitten (5.11)
By: Alexander Nees When: Feb 14, 2011

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Comments: Wow, are Ben and I not talking about the same route? The way we did it, the cracks were pouring sand, large blocks were hollow and shifting, and edges were breaking off constantly. Maybe I'll amend my judgement to: "Potentially fun climb, but climber beware! It's not a clean and sterilized typical Creek splitter."


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : The Kitten (5.11)
By: Alexander Nees When: Feb 2, 2011

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Comments: Did this route about 2 months ago. Thought it was mildly terrifying, with crap gear and chossy rock. The bolts are good, but much of the gear in the first half is not trustworthy. There used to be a fixed angle piton protecting the hand traverse... my partner removed it with his fingers (accidentally, and just prior to resting on it!). Neat line, fun moves, nice feature, but I wouldn't recommend it to anyone.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Photo
By: Alexander Nees When: Jan 26, 2011

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Comments: I <3 blitzo


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Rock : Steck-Salathe (5.10-)
By: Alexander Nees When: Oct 18, 2010

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Comments: I only have one thing to add to the huge amount of quality beta for this route. The 5.9 squeeze after the Wilson Overhang is mellow, except for the last body-length or so immediately before exiting, which is HORRENDOUS. I highly recommend the following strategy:

Climb up the chimney to the point at which your chest is starting to get compressed by the squeeze, maybe 6-8 feet below the slung chockstone. Place a good piece (I used a bomber .75 C4), then slither back down the chimney to... more >>


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Phobos/Deimos Cliff : Deimos (5.9)
By: Alexander Nees When: Aug 31, 2010

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Comments: Phobos is rated 5.9+ on MountainProject. My partner and I felt that the crux move over the roof on Pitch 1 of Deimos was harder than anything on Phobos, but they both just felt like solid 5.9 to us. Phobos a bit more sustained, Deimos a bit more funky.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pywiack Area : Pywiak Dome : Aqua Knobby (5.9 PG13)
By: Alexander Nees When: Aug 15, 2010

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Comments: We started with the bolted 5.9 slab start, then linked pitches 2 and 3. Done this way, this is a new favorite TM multi-pitch for me; steep, fun, some good cracks, and just run-out enough to be exciting without being upsetting.

Standing at the bolt that protects the runout, the climbing feels hard and tenuous. But the bolt is protecting the hardest stuff; once you step up and over the overlap it's pretty cruiser to the crack and good gear.


Location: California : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass Highway (108) : Table Mountain : The Grotto : Chicken Ranch Bingo (5.10a)
By: Alexander Nees When: May 14, 2010

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Comments: This is the BEST bolted line I've tried in the Grotto area (incl. Ort Wall, Welcome Wall, Eastern Front) after AC Devil Dog, although I've mostly done the cracks. Decently long, really fun movement, good rock. Don't let the comments dissuade you; I noticed no crap on the rocks, and both of the two rusty bolts have good new bolts nearby, so it's safe. Pretty runout to the first bolt, but easy. If you think there's ANY possibility of you falling down low, you should anchor your belay... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Drainpipe (5.10+)
By: Alexander Nees When: Apr 29, 2010

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Comments: This thing ate me alive... I got a knee gobie right through my pants from kneebar-ing my way most of the distance! Certainly seemed harder for me than other 10s at the Creek. I'd call it 10+ for the water polish, awkwardness, and bad rattly fingers at the top.

And yes, I'm pretty sure this route is the Drainpipe. That's what Bloom says, it squares with his description, and also this crack is definitely the primary drainage channel, not the one to the left (personal observation!).


Location: California : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass Highway (108) : Table Mountain : The Grotto : AC Devil Dog (5.10d)
By: Alexander Nees When: Apr 23, 2010

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Comments: Absolutely stellar and unique. First couple bolts are tough, easier after that. Love the rest in the handjam slot halfway up!


Location: California : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass Highway (108) : Table Mountain : The Grotto : Table Manners - Left (5.11a)
By: Alexander Nees When: Apr 23, 2010

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Comments: Very contrived, but what a beautiful crack! ~1" for nearly the whole length; a very good challenge, and I would say solid at 11a. Certainly harder than Rawhide, and also feels harder than Snake Bite at 11b. Would be 4 stars without the contrived nature of it.


Location: California : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass Highway (108) : Table Mountain : The Grotto : Prime Directive (5.10c R)
By: Alexander Nees When: Apr 23, 2010

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Comments: Yikes... a bit of a head-game to climb this one. No chalk, lots of lichen/moss, quite a bit of loose rock, and runout in the upper section. Wouldn't recommend it. If you do go for it, I would bring a couple cams to protect the bottom section before reaching the first bolt; I think I placed a .5 C4. The rock is pretty bad down there, though, so I'm not sure if the placement would really help keep you off the ground anyway.

Also, there is an alternate "direct" start to this climb. ... more >>


Location: California : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass Highway (108) : Table Mountain : The Grotto : Hole in the Wall (5.10a)
By: Alexander Nees When: Apr 23, 2010

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Comments: Caughtinside is right about the questionable rock quality... but I really only noticed the "flaky crust" factor in a single 3' section of the climb. Put in gear just below the crust, and just above, and I don't think there's any reason to be concerned. Very fun climb; love it!


Location: California : Central Sierra : Sonora Pass Highway (108) : Table Mountain : The Grotto : Gyro Gearloose (5.10c)
By: Alexander Nees When: Apr 23, 2010

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Comments: I think this route deserves more than 1 star. Admittedly it's not a great natural line, linking the bottom half of Snake Bite into a higher crack system on the right using a bolt. But the climbing is fun and interesting in the linkup, the bolt is solid and well-placed, and I didn't notice any worryingly loose rock on the climb. The Grotto is a small area; if you've done most of the clear lines, this is a good one to fill out your visit with. 10c for the face moves at the bolt, easi... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : The Wave (5.10+)
By: Alexander Nees When: Apr 12, 2010

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Comments: A great climb, but I got a bit hosed by the gear beta in Bloom's 2nd ed. guide, which recommends 3 2.5 Friends. I typically convert 2.5 and 3 Friends to #2 C4s; the gear list led me to take lotsa 2s but only a couple .75s and 1s. NOT ideal gear for this climb; I ended up at the second bulge with nothing that would fit the crack. Take a bunch of .5s, .75s, and 1s, but only a single 2, or two at the most. Yeah, yeah, make your own decisions about gear, don't trust the... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Gallup Area : Mentmore : Original Side : (04) Benny Silva Wall : Razors from Heaven (5.10d)
By: Alexander Nees When: May 31, 2008

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Comments: Hey Marvin,
Thanks for straightening that out about the FA. Congrats on being able to pull that move...I had to work out an entirely different sequence to be able to do the route consistently.


Location: New Mexico : Gallup Area : Mentmore : New Side : (03) Wall of Dreams : Photo
By: Alexander Nees When: May 19, 2008

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Comments: The "Unnamed Crack" marked on this photo right of Stolen Dreams is "Turquoise Classic Thunder."


Location: New Mexico : Gallup Area : Church Rock
By: Alexander Nees When: May 14, 2008

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Comments: The best way to access the base of Churchrock is from Red Rock State Park, in the town of Churchrock just off I-40 east of Gallup. Leave the interstate at exit 26 (if coming from the west) or exit 33 (if coming from the east) and follow the frontage road and signs to Red Rock State Park. The trail starts from the Post Office in the park (not the Pyramid Trail). Park your car at the Post Office and walk north towards the redrock; you'll see the trail sign. The trail is marked along ... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Gallup Area : Mentmore : New Side : (04) The Balcony : Ten 'Til Eight (5.9)
By: Alexander Nees When: Nov 5, 2007

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Comments: The 5.9 grade on this climb is a little funny, sort of a compromise. As the name suggests, this climb is a little bit of 5.10 to a lot of 5.8. If 5.9 is at your limit, the bottom of this route is going to be a shock. So, I would say that if you climb this one starting from the bottom, up the overhang, it's roughly 5.10a. If you start on the Balcony and traverse in from the right, skipping the first bolt of the climb, it's about 5.8.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: .Trad ClimbingAlexander NeesMar 13, 2014
re: Moab Tower Photo OpportunitiesSouthern Utah DesertsAlexander NeesFeb 24, 2014
re: Is the 'Rado better than CA?ColoradoAlexander NeesFeb 7, 2014
KingfisherSouthern Utah DesertsAlexander NeesDec 4, 2013
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