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Member Since: Jun 29, 2012
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 380
Total Points: 1,948

59 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Alex Bury been climbing?










Contributions


All 912 | Routes 100 | Areas 10 | Approach Trails | Photos 159 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 149 | Posts 309 | Stars 162 | Ratings 22
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California > Los Angeles Basin > Santa Monica Mountains > Echo Cliffs > Java Wall > Espresso (5.11a)
By: Alex Bury When: Dec 4, 2017

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Comments: Thanks for the heads up regarding the lead bolts.

The anchor up top was updated three days ago, and I’m going to return soon to finish removing the old hardware. I’ll tighten up those lead bolts while I’m there.

Folks are welcome to reach out directly if you know of anything needing attention:
info@ojaialex.com.


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
By: Alex Bury When: Oct 31, 2017

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Comments: Recovered a single climbing shoe today at Black Wall. Give me a ring to get it back:
805-850-8364


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Shelf Ridge > Upper Ridge > Red Wind (5.10d R)
By: Alex Bury When: Oct 30, 2017

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Comments: Four years this month, goes pretty fast.
Some historical notes:

Red Wind was named after the Santa Ana winds that blow through our region, often around this time of year. When I was first considering how to do the line, I decided not to do it ground up, since the obvious crux was covered in friable plates.

After cleaning the route, we were having a good time top roping it when a hiker happened by. He looked wide eyed and beelined off the trail towards us. I recognized him instantly as Himalaya... more >>


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) > Roadside Cracks (5.10)
By: Alex Bury When: Oct 2, 2017

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Comments: It isn't new, it was bolted over 20 years ago.
As it stands it's a solid 11. It used to be a 12 before someone chipped it into submission.


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) > Floyd (5.7)
By: Alex Bury When: Sep 19, 2017

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Comments: FA info for this line, seemingly lost to time, was uncovered recently by sheer chance. I was speaking with Mike Jauregui about routes on the wall when he said:

"I remember we did one line way down on the left side of the wall. We had a third person with us, not sure I remember his name."
Trying to figure out which line he meant, I asked, "Do you mean Floyd?"
He said," Yeah! That was his name. Floyd."

Mike is a longtime area climber, especially well known in the SA... more >>


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Wheeler Gorge > Sick Boy (5.10)
By: Alex Bury When: Aug 15, 2017

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Comments: Fearless Hyena (5.10). An old and unfinished line that ended at a single bolt anchor partway up the wall.


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) > Pine to Pine (5.6) > Photo
By: Alex Bury When: Jun 13, 2017

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Comments: For a sense of perspective, the team visible to the right of my follower is on the second pitch of Tree Root.


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) > Edge of Night (5.7 R) > Photo
By: Alex Bury When: Jun 13, 2017

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Comments: Topping out the route, a short splitter marks the end.


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Wheeler Gorge > Blush (5.11a) > Photo
By: Alex Bury When: May 29, 2017

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Comments: My personal favorite on the sandstone wall.


Location: California > Central Coast > San Luis Obispo > Bishop Peak > P-Wall > Impacted Stool Crack (5.9)
By: Alex Bury When: May 9, 2017

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Comments: A couple notes from my corner...

The concern and confusion regarding runout routes at Bishop is understandable, as today's climbing culture is very different from the one that produced these risky leads.

One thing to understand is that old routes like this aren't just runout because of someone's vision. Back in the day, routes were established from the ground. Placing bolts on lead is really tough, so less got placed in general. Today's standard (rappelling in to clean, top-rop... more >>


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Wheeler Gorge > Riparian Daydream (5.10-)
By: Alex Bury When: Apr 14, 2017

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Comments: A quick update regarding the route:

After nearly three seasons the route has become a unique feature in the gorge and a popular "first multipitch". It's a diverse climb and so it lends itself to that duty. And the airy summit provides a proper top-out experience.

This has resulted in lots of traffic, which, combined with the recent storms, has left the line in great shape. The entire route is becoming surprisingly solid. The last couple body lengths include lower quality rock but... more >>


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) > Pine to Pine (5.6) > Photo
By: Alex Bury When: Apr 12, 2017

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Comments: Old slings we pulled off the first pitch "bush belay".


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) > Pine to Pine (5.6) > Photo
By: Alex Bury When: Apr 10, 2017

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Comments: The team up and right is on pitch two of Tree Route.


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) > Pine to Pine (5.6)
By: Alex Bury When: Apr 9, 2017

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Comments: Pine to Pine will likely one day join its neighbors to the left as a highly appreciated local classic. It affords great pro the entire way and will clean up to be just as solid as Ending Crack and Tree Route.

For now the climb offers a much different experience than those climbs, strictly due to the lack of traffic. I encourage adventurous locals and visitors alike to give it a try. Come prepared to excavate some placements and be careful with what you pull on.


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Potrero John > Wild Rose (5.8)
By: Alex Bury When: Dec 15, 2016

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Comments: One thing to keep in mind is that climbers have been hunting for lines along the Sespe for sixty years. Given that it's a moderate crack, right off the road, and about twenty feet from an old Chouinard/Barber route, it has very likely been done.

That said, it is undocumented. My advice would be to keep the name, and record the FA as an unknown. This way you get to contribute something while at the same time respecting generations passed.


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering > Pine Mountain > ... > The Press (V7+)
By: Alex Bury When: Nov 10, 2016

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Comments: It's worth mentioning that Oceans 11 actually does use pluses and minuses, but only for the V0 grade. I often hear beginners complain of the huge variation in low end problems, so I think it makes sense.

I'm told the Japanese system is karate based, with more low end grades to help gauge progress. Black belt comes when you send your first V7.


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering > Pine Mountain > ... > The Press (V7+)
By: Alex Bury When: Nov 4, 2016

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Comments: As far as what's 'more classy', Micah knows his stuff. I saw the bow tie.


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Lost Horse Area > Left Hand of Darkness > Left Hand of Darkness - E. ... > Middle Hand of Darkness (5.11+)
By: Alex Bury When: Nov 2, 2016

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Comments: Makes for a fun TR. Good technique down low will help save juice for the crux.


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering > Pine Mountain > ... > Slab Central (V0)
By: Alex Bury When: Sep 30, 2016

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Comments: Nice post Randall. Zero's don't get much better than this one. Earns three stars in Oceans Eleven.
Fifteen Years, Slab Central, Sunkissed, and Peerless Plates are my first-timer faves.


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Wheeler Gorge > Lost Trout (5.8)
By: Alex Bury When: Aug 31, 2016

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Comments: I finally had a chance to come back and take a second look at this thing, and I'm happy to report its good-to-go. Solid clips and a bomber anchor.

I will say that it feels a bit ridiculous to take heat from the genius who bolted the cobble shown above (in our most popular zone, no less). But such is the way of the internet.

I think Lost Trout will prove to be a very popular line, and the name strikes me as quite apt. It's a worthy addition now that it's independent, with a stout an... more >>


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Wheeler Gorge > Lost Trout (5.8)
By: Alex Bury When: Aug 26, 2016

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Comments: Regarding the second bolt: it is a lot closer to that ledge than I would have liked, but the draw hangs free when clipped/loaded.

Neither of the first two bolts could actually go where I initially wanted. In the pic you can see my chalk dot, up and left, where I'd originally chosen, until a few hammer taps encouraged me to look elsewhere. The hammer sung like it was Yosemite granite (by Wheeler standards...) over that ledge, so I compromised and went with that.

I'm open to try moving... more >>


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Wheeler Gorge > Silent Mind (5.11b)
By: Alex Bury When: Aug 11, 2016

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Comments: After losing the blocky undercling down low and a couple pieces off the crux, this route's in pretty solid shape. It's worth mentioning that the original line ends at a jug just beyond the anchor (many opt to skip the last few moves with a super reachy clip at the shuts).


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Wheeler Gorge > Silent Mind (5.11b) > Photo
By: Alex Bury When: Aug 11, 2016

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Comments: Cole Gibson reaching for the last clip on Silent Mind.


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Wheeler Gorge > South of the Trout Farm (5.9+)
By: Alex Bury When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Bunk rings
Bunk rings


Aside from being very thin, these rings have not been welded into a closed loop. They are actually ajar at the connection, and produce a sharp, rope-damaging edge. Safe and proper hardware is rule #1.

I encourage people to contact me if they have any questions. I think new routes at Wheeler are great, Odgers and Becchio have done a fine job contributing new routes recently. But if you aren't sure, don't just bolt it and leave us with a couple shower curtain rings.

Hop... more >>


Location: California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Wheeler Gorge > Lost Trout (5.8)
By: Alex Bury When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: Two weeks back we noticed some bolts had sprouted left of Trout Farm. I gave the rig a whirl and enjoyed the climbing but was disappointed in the anchor, and the fact that this new line shared a bolt with Trout Farm. A new low bolt was also close enough that it could be used to avoid TF's unprotected start.

When new-routing, using hardware that is safe and proper is the first step. Respecting other people's lines, other user groups, and the area in general comes next. The rings were ver... more >>


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