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Member Since: Jan 21, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Alex Shainman

Point Rank: # 503
Total Points: 1,286

53 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Alex Shainman been climbing?










Contributions


All 574 | Routes 104 | Areas 10 | Photos 43 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 140 | Posts 55 | Stars 215 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : Tuscarora (5.12)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jan 26, 2017

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Comments: I was just looking at the 2016 Handren guide and I'd agree with the 12c upgrade for my finger size. I also found protecting the crux entry to be intimidating...I stood in a sling at the very start of the crux tips crack, so I could stack two of the small cams to comfortably protect the burly start...then I lowered myself back to the obvious stance before committing to free climbing it. That was all unbeknownst to my belayer who couldn't see or hear me at a... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Lakeside Rock : Lakeside Rock - East Face : Father Figure (5.12d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jan 21, 2017

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Comments: One of the best routes of its quality, grade and style in the park! A lot of the harder (and easier) steeper bolted routes in JT have broken considerably since the FA. FF has cool features and in its current state, the rock is super solid and with fun hard moves and NO glue! The common crux sequence for most people (see videos), probably feels a bit burly compared to the late 80's/early 90's. I think there was probably a much better body position option be... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Lakeside Rock : Lakeside Rock - East Face : Father Figure (5.12d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jan 16, 2017

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Comments: HEADS UP!!!

The crux 3rd bolt has failed and has been pulled out! It's a Petzl self-drill bolt designed for caving. It is amazingly lucky though, none of these bolts pulled or sheared off from a fall in the last 20+ years!

Bolts 1 and 2 are extremely suspect, as they're the same type/size. All four bolts/hangers are now in the process of being replaced with larger all stainless steel hardware. Due to logistics, etc I cannot give a date as to when the bol... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Far East : Hidden Wall
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 23, 2016

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Comments: Has anyone been here recently? Do any of the routes still exist? I was here 20 years ago and I remember then, many routes looked broken and bolts/hangers missing...
Msg me


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (f) Torture Machine Area : Wonderstuff (5.10c)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 22, 2016

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Comments: Upper corner is good if not dirty. The first half has a lot of chossy hollow junk and a couple bolts are in hollow rock. Yikes!


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (f) Torture Machine Area : Tangerine Dream (5.10d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 22, 2016

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Comments: Watch out for the big hollow/loose spike that you clip the anchor from!


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (h) Rubble Row : Kingpin (5.13a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 22, 2016

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Comments: I took 4 older looking draws off this route a couple days ago...ID them if they're yours, if you want them back. We didn't find it necessary for draws to be on those bolts as they're relatively easy to hang; it only forces others to clip and trust weathered gear. The single chain draw on the other hand is nice to have in place for that one clip, although a steel biner with a captive pin would be even better than the aluminum b... more >>


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (e) Right of the Roof : Ground Zero (5.11a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 19, 2016

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Comments: First half is junk. Upper corner is cool.
Watch out clipping bolt 3, the clipping hold broke today and what remains flexes.
Add this route to the cross list haha.


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (j) The Tall Wall
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 16, 2016

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Comments: Has anyone been on any of the Tall Wall routes within the last couple months and can vouch for their quality, cleanliness and integrity of the holds, etc???


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (k) The Shield : Megalomania (5.12a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 8, 2016

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Comments: Don't listen to that Nick dude, he doesn't know what he's talking about. Haha well actually he does, but the start is definitely harder. It sucks now haha.


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (d) Roof Area : Leviathan (5.11d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 8, 2016

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Comments: At the exit moves to the anchor, go left! The right (original?) way is very broken and will fall apart. The left way is good!


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (n) The Alcove : Shwazzle Dazzle (5.11c)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 8, 2016

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Comments: The extension is funky weird but good.


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (m) Taboo Area : Taboo (5.12c)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 8, 2016

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Comments: Did this one a couple/few years ago. It's kinda mediocre I thought. Very short crux section for how long the dihedral is but hey sure it's a trad pitch at the quarry and you do have to punch it through the moves!


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (m) Taboo Area : Sins of the Flesh (5.12d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 8, 2016

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Comments: Even thought it's short, I think this warrants 3 stars. Except for the feet at the 1st move, there's zero choss! Thoughtful and powerful sequences and moves above the bolts!


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (e) Right of the Roof : Survival of the Fittest (5.12b)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 8, 2016

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Comments: The crux (upper hard move over a bulge) apparently received more breakage recently and the difficulty is quite a bit harder now. It's very out of character with the rest of the route and a bit of a shoulder wrecker. The right hand that was, I believe, a mini brick shaped pinch is gone. What remains is a small low crimp and that's it, other than that miserable sloper out there for the left hand.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Leaning Tower Area : Fifi Buttress : Romulan Freebird (5.12c)
By: Alex Shainman When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: This is a really good route! I would definitely recommend going to the top if you have time.

Main reason to post:

As of yesterday, on at least a couple pitches, there are anchor bolt nuts (threaded wedge style) that are barely finger-tight. Bring an adjustable crescent wrench to tighten them.

Have fun!!!


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Ankles Away (5.11+ PG13)
By: Alex Shainman When: Sep 23, 2016

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Ankles Away
Ankles Away


Rock Climbing Photo: Catalogue (plus pic of Pyromania)
Catalogue (plus pic of Pyromania)


Photo and catalogue that doug rouse is referring to...


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Planet X (5.13b)
By: Alex Shainman When: Sep 14, 2016

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Comments: Excellent route!

I removed four junk in-situ Petzl "team" draws off the last 4 bolts; they all are quite old, worn and way beyond prime condition. In addition to tattered webbing, the "bottom" bent-gate biner was grooved enough for someone to switch it up to the bolt-hanger clip in point. The "top" straight-gate biner is held by the rubber keeper and being used down at the rope clipping end. Thes... more >>


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : spaceballs (5.12+)
By: Alex Shainman When: Sep 14, 2016

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Comments: This is a good line and a great addition but it needs more ascents/cleaning.
Four weeks ago, 3 holds broke on me. One of them was a key left foot for the beginning of the harder arete moves up high...


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Free Beaks (5.12b)
By: Alex Shainman When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: The corner is short but really cool and a fun diversion from the crimpin nearby. I'd recommend having extra cams in the mid/larger sizes listed above...
Definitely seemed height dependent. Great addition!


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Buehler's Day Off (5.12c/d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: The rock quality doesn't start out great and the cheater-stone pile is a bit wobbly but I think this is a very good pitch - it's so different than everything else in the canyon. There's no just reaching through the crux on this one...You gotta tech-stem burl it out! Most will only need 2 or 3 cams in the #.5 - #2 Camalot range for the crack before the last bolt. No gear necessary over the roof. Go do it!!!


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : DAFF Area : Central Cottage Dome - Nort... : New World Order (5.11d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jul 12, 2016

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Comments: I climbed here 4 days ago and it's not quite that bad...but yes please climb here more and do some scrubbing and the routes will become even better! It's not Medlicott quality but it's pretty good, plus it's afternoon shade!

Read description for Central Cottage Dome and feel free to add other routes to the database to get more peopl... more >>


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : The Quarry (5.11c)
By: Alex Shainman When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: On the first pitch, it's also possible to link the start past the pin and bolt back into Blankety Blank's upper P1 right facing flake/corner for a slight variation...and yeah, it's highly recommended not to take big falls on either these two routes/variations.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Mr. Slate (5.10d)
By: Alex Shainman When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: This route would most definitely deserve another star and be as good as Fred if you didn't have to traverse left to Human Fright at that current 5th bolt and the rock is kinda crunchy in a couple spots, but it is a good long pitch nonetheless.

The contrived sensation will dissipate as you make some exciting moves up and right before you clip the second to last bolt. I thought the upper climbing is well worth feeling silly about attempting. Other than a 2" piece before the first bolt, placing an... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Time's Up (5.11+)
By: Alex Shainman When: Mar 3, 2016

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Comments: Great route! The 3rd and 4th pitches are excellent!

Thanks for the bolt replacements!

Regarding the 4th pitch...
This pitch was first put up (bolted) basically as an aid ladder and for whatever their reason during the first ascent, they put the top anchor where it is in that chimney. I think that anchor should be relocated over the chimney at a chosen stance on pitch 5. Why?:
1) That belay anchor is basically a point of aid for the mega classic 4th pitch - those last moves would make for an e... more >>


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