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Member Since: Jan 21, 2006
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Alex Shainman
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Point Rank: # 540
Total Points: 1,291

54 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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All 609 | Routes 104 | Areas 10 | Photos 50 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 150 | Posts 63 | Stars 223 | Ratings 7
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : DAFF Area : Central Cottage Dome - Nort...
By: Alex Shainman When: Jul 6, 2017

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Comments: It's Tuolumne season once again! YES!!

Just wanted to bump this page up to get people stoked to climb here! If you like long knob routes, you gotta spend some time at this cliff! The routes are really good! The entire face needs some love in the way of cleaning/scrubbing and anchor clean-up ... and after only a few more ascents, the quality of the climbing will be fully revealed!

Good supertopo thread about the routes, the FA'ers and the style of the day...
supertopo.com/cl... more >>


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (k) Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Gates of Delirium (5.11c)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jul 4, 2017

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Comments: Unfortunately a mediocre pitch. The moves past the third bolt are really cool, too bad the rest isn't as good. The climbing past the first bolt makes zero sense to me. Did Yaniro place that bolt on rappel? There's no stance for it. The only natural stance is about a foot-plus lower. Did lots of holds break? Felt contrived compared to the upper bits plus those bolts have logical drilling stances.


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (k) Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Left Side : Domestic Friction (5.9+)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jul 4, 2017

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Comments: Did this for this first time yesterday. Not sure what it was like during the FA but there's no way it's 10b as listed in the Vogel book. It's 9+ as in that's maybe what it would have been rated if done in 1972 or that era. After leading it and a couple top rope runs with three people we probably broke off almost all the remaining loose scaly flakes...LOTS! It felt like we were doing a FA. I'd say we got it cleaned up now to be a fun little route! Difficulty felt about the sam... more >>


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga R... : Tioga Cliff Area (aka Priva... : Tioga Wall : Throwin' the Finger (5.12c PG13)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jul 1, 2017

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Comments: Some people may want a couple cams in the finger to hand size range before the first bolt (all bolts now have chain draws).

Although the climbing past the first couple of bolts feels a little contrived, the route is quite good once past the third bolt (which is a hard clip, depending on your height). The crux face section is great and the upper corner is excellent! Gradewise, compared to Gold Dust (to 1st anchor) just to the left...it's a bit of a head-scratcher as to how they're only 1... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Hidden Cliff : Bikini Whale (5.12b)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jun 8, 2017

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Comments: I was hoping to get additional inputs from some non-locals too, but it doesn't matter. I knew that the idea of a mandatory stick clip for a JTree route would be a very touchy subject, but I wanted public input. I also have lead the route multiple times since first in 1997 (last time was this spring). The moves from the 1st bolt to the 2nd bolt are now definitely harder because of the poor integrity of those holds and these holds could further break. In its current state and with a belayer to... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Hidden Cliff : Bikini Whale (5.12b)
By: Alex Shainman When: May 11, 2017

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Comments: Hey Russ, thanks for your input! You should give it a ground up lead next time you're out and let us know what you think...

To answer your question, it is still relatively easy to clip the first bolt but that's not why I'm proposing moving it. There is a real possibility in the near future that the left starting hold will bust off...you pull kinda hard on it to make the toss up to the clipping holds for bolt #1....

The main reason to move bolt #1 up and right is to better protect t... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Hidden Cliff : Bikini Whale (5.12b)
By: Alex Shainman When: May 6, 2017

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Comments: We are hoping to get the route on this summer's list (permit) for bolt replacements...new 1/2" bolts for each existing bolt and in the same hole, EXCEPT for bolt #1.

I think the first bolt should be moved a bit to the right (maybe up and right), which will better protect what has become the crux of the entire route. A couple years after the FA there was major breakage when a huge plate fell off and the remaining holds have eroded more since then.

The first ascensionist has already giv... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Smears for Fears Area : Smears for Fears (5.11b/c)
By: Alex Shainman When: Apr 27, 2017

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Comments: EXCELLENT pitch of techy steep slab! 11b/c is a sandbag...the Handren guide is more accurate at 11d. Also...you need more than just some small gear to supplement the bolts. It'll be obvious what you need before the 1st bolt. A 4 Camalot or 4 Friend size cam is very nice higher up. Just sayin'...maybe a draw with lockers for the last bolt too ;-) Best to do this one in cooler temps.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Voyager (5.11b)
By: Alex Shainman When: Apr 21, 2017

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Comments: Is it possible to get off this route with a single 80m? An 80m with 20' of extra cord?? Anyone know for sure??? Is pitch 3 not 130' as listed in the Handren guide?


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Texas Wall / West Velve... : The Velveteen Rabbit (5.12a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Apr 20, 2017

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Comments: Great new route!!! Do it!

Every pitch is 4 stars but since it's so short, it's hard to give the route as a whole 4 stars.

Don't let the first pitch lull you into thinking it's a rinky-dink sport route...but its crux may be more stout for under 5'8" climbers, plus a hard clip.

Pitch 2 will keep your attention. Say shallow nut placement 10 times in a row.

The 3rd pitch starts out ... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Upper Dodge City : Spaghetti Western (5.11+)
By: Alex Shainman When: Mar 9, 2017

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Comments: Great route worth doing after Frontier Justice. Has a couple devious but cool sequences.

Protection bolts look good (3/8" Rawl sleeve). Anchor is 2 open hooks but appears to be good condition.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Wall of Biblical Fallacies : Blood of Christ (5.12b)
By: Alex Shainman When: Mar 3, 2017

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Comments: This route is on the list to be rebolted with 1/2" hardware...once the permit is issued (TBD).

Also, the route has changed considerably since the FA and the aluma-head just needs to go. I have a proposal:

I would like to pull the aluma-head AND the 3rd bolt...and add a new bolt just below where the head is currently. See pics both above and below. For most climbers and definitely shorter than 5'10", you will clip the head (maybe 3rd bolt too) from where my left hand is (a rather... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : Tuscarora (5.12)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jan 26, 2017

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Comments: I was just looking at the 2016 Handren guide and I'd agree with the 12c upgrade for my finger size. I also found protecting the crux entry to be intimidating...I stood in a sling at the very start of the crux tips crack, so I could stack two of the small cams to comfortably protect the burly start...then I lowered myself back to the obvious stance before committing to free climbing it. That was all unbeknownst to my belayer who couldn't see or hear me at a... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Lakeside Rock : Lakeside Rock - East Face : Father Figure (5.12d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jan 21, 2017

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Comments: One of the best routes of its quality, grade and style in the park! A lot of the harder (and easier) steeper bolted routes in JT have broken considerably since the FA. FF has cool features and in its current state, the rock is super solid and with fun hard moves and NO glue! The common crux sequence for most people (see videos), probably feels a bit burly compared to the late 80's/early 90's. I think there was probably a much better body position option be... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Lakeside Rock : Lakeside Rock - East Face : Father Figure (5.12d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jan 16, 2017

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Comments: HEADS UP!!!

The crux 3rd bolt has failed and has been pulled out! It's a Petzl self-drill bolt designed for caving. It is amazingly lucky though, none of these bolts pulled or sheared off from a fall in the last 20+ years!

Bolts 1 and 2 are extremely suspect, as they're the same type/size. All four bolts/hangers are now in the process of being replaced with larger all stainless steel hardware. Due to logistics, etc I cannot give a date as to when the bol... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Far East : Hidden Wall
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 23, 2016

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Comments: Has anyone been here recently? Do any of the routes still exist? I was here 20 years ago and I remember then, many routes looked broken and bolts/hangers missing...
Msg me


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (f) Torture Machine Area : Wonderstuff (5.10c)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 22, 2016

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Comments: Upper corner is good if not dirty. The first half has a lot of chossy hollow junk and a couple bolts are in hollow rock. Yikes!


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (f) Torture Machine Area : Tangerine Dream (5.10d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 22, 2016

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Comments: Watch out for the big hollow/loose spike that you clip the anchor from!


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (h) Rubble Row : Kingpin (5.13a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 22, 2016

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Comments: I took 4 older looking draws off this route a couple days ago...ID them if they're yours, if you want them back. We didn't find it necessary for draws to be on those bolts as they're relatively easy to hang; it only forces others to clip and trust weathered gear. The single chain draw on the other hand is nice to have in place for that one clip, although a steel biner with a captive pin would be even better than the aluminum b... more >>


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (e) Right of the Roof : Ground Zero (5.11a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 19, 2016

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Comments: First half is junk. Upper corner is cool.
Watch out clipping bolt 3, the clipping hold broke today and what remains flexes.
Add this route to the cross list haha.


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (k) The Shield : Megalomania (5.12a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 8, 2016

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Comments: Don't listen to that Nick dude, he doesn't know what he's talking about. Haha well actually he does, but the start is definitely harder. It sucks now haha.


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (d) Roof Area : Leviathan (5.11d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 8, 2016

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Comments: At the exit moves to the anchor, go left! The right (original?) way is very broken and will fall apart. The left way is good!


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (n) The Alcove : Shwazzle Dazzle (5.11c)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 8, 2016

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Comments: The extension is funky weird but good.


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (m) Taboo Area : Taboo (5.12c)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 8, 2016

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Comments: Did this one a couple/few years ago. It's kinda mediocre I thought. Very short crux section for how long the dihedral is but hey sure it's a trad pitch at the quarry and you do have to punch it through the moves!


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (m) Taboo Area : Sins of the Flesh (5.12d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 8, 2016

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Comments: Even thought it's short, I think this warrants 3 stars. Except for the feet at the 1st move, there's zero choss! Thoughtful and powerful sequences and moves above the bolts!


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