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Member Since: Jan 21, 2006
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Alex Shainman

Point Rank: # 519
Total Points: 1,291

53 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Alex Shainman been climbing?










Contributions


All 601 | Routes 104 | Areas 10 | Photos 50 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 144 | Posts 66 | Stars 218 | Ratings 7
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Smears for Fears Area : Smears for Fears (5.11b/c)
By: Alex Shainman When: 2 days ago

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Comments: EXCELLENT pitch of techy steep slab! 11b/c is a sandbag...the Handren guide is more accurate at 11d. Also...you need more than just some small gear to supplement the bolts. It'll be obvious what you need before the 1st bolt. A 4 Camalot or 4 Friend size cam is very nice higher up. Just sayin'...maybe a draw with lockers for the last bolt too ;-) Best to do this one in cooler temps.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Voyager (5.11b)
By: Alex Shainman When: Apr 21, 2017

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Comments: Is it possible to get off this route with a single 80m? An 80m with 20' of extra cord?? Anyone know for sure??? Is pitch 3 not 130' as listed in the Handren guide?


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Texas Wall / West Velve... : The Velveteen Rabbit (5.12a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Apr 20, 2017

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Comments: Great new route!!! Do it!

Every pitch is 4 stars but since it's so short, it's hard to give the route as a whole 4 stars.

Don't let the first pitch lull you into thinking it's a rinky-dink sport route...but its crux may be more stout for under 5'8" climbers, plus a hard clip.

Pitch 2 will keep your attention. Say shallow nut placement 10 times in a row.

The 3rd pitch starts out ... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Upper Dodge City : Spaghetti Western (5.11+)
By: Alex Shainman When: Mar 9, 2017

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Comments: Great route worth doing after Frontier Justice. Has a couple devious but cool sequences.

Protection bolts look good (3/8" Rawl sleeve). Anchor is 2 open hooks but appears to be good condition.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Wall of Biblical Fallacies : Blood of Christ (5.12b)
By: Alex Shainman When: Mar 3, 2017

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Comments: This route is on the list to be rebolted with 1/2" hardware...once the permit is issued (TBD).

Also, the route has changed considerably since the FA and the aluma-head just needs to go. I have a proposal:

I would like to pull the aluma-head AND the 3rd bolt...and add a new bolt just below where the head is currently. See pics. For most climbers and definitely shorter than 5'10", you will clip the head (maybe 3rd bolt too) from where my left ha... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : Tuscarora (5.12)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jan 26, 2017

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Comments: I was just looking at the 2016 Handren guide and I'd agree with the 12c upgrade for my finger size. I also found protecting the crux entry to be intimidating...I stood in a sling at the very start of the crux tips crack, so I could stack two of the small cams to comfortably protect the burly start...then I lowered myself back to the obvious stance before committing to free climbing it. That was all unbeknownst to my belayer who couldn't see or hear me at a... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Lakeside Rock : Lakeside Rock - East Face : Father Figure (5.12d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jan 21, 2017

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Comments: One of the best routes of its quality, grade and style in the park! A lot of the harder (and easier) steeper bolted routes in JT have broken considerably since the FA. FF has cool features and in its current state, the rock is super solid and with fun hard moves and NO glue! The common crux sequence for most people (see videos), probably feels a bit burly compared to the late 80's/early 90's. I think there was probably a much better body position option be... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Lakeside Rock : Lakeside Rock - East Face : Father Figure (5.12d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Jan 16, 2017

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Comments: HEADS UP!!!

The crux 3rd bolt has failed and has been pulled out! It's a Petzl self-drill bolt designed for caving. It is amazingly lucky though, none of these bolts pulled or sheared off from a fall in the last 20+ years!

Bolts 1 and 2 are extremely suspect, as they're the same type/size. All four bolts/hangers are now in the process of being replaced with larger all stainless steel hardware. Due to logistics, etc I cannot give a date as to when the bol... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Far East : Hidden Wall
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 23, 2016

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Comments: Has anyone been here recently? Do any of the routes still exist? I was here 20 years ago and I remember then, many routes looked broken and bolts/hangers missing...
Msg me


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (f) Torture Machine Area : Wonderstuff (5.10c)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 22, 2016

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Comments: Upper corner is good if not dirty. The first half has a lot of chossy hollow junk and a couple bolts are in hollow rock. Yikes!


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (f) Torture Machine Area : Tangerine Dream (5.10d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 22, 2016

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Comments: Watch out for the big hollow/loose spike that you clip the anchor from!


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (h) Rubble Row : Kingpin (5.13a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 22, 2016

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Comments: I took 4 older looking draws off this route a couple days ago...ID them if they're yours, if you want them back. We didn't find it necessary for draws to be on those bolts as they're relatively easy to hang; it only forces others to clip and trust weathered gear. The single chain draw on the other hand is nice to have in place for that one clip, although a steel biner with a captive pin would be even better than the aluminum b... more >>


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (e) Right of the Roof : Ground Zero (5.11a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 19, 2016

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Comments: First half is junk. Upper corner is cool.
Watch out clipping bolt 3, the clipping hold broke today and what remains flexes.
Add this route to the cross list haha.


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (k) The Shield : Megalomania (5.12a)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 8, 2016

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Comments: Don't listen to that Nick dude, he doesn't know what he's talking about. Haha well actually he does, but the start is definitely harder. It sucks now haha.


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (d) Roof Area : Leviathan (5.11d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 8, 2016

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Comments: At the exit moves to the anchor, go left! The right (original?) way is very broken and will fall apart. The left way is good!


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (n) The Alcove : Shwazzle Dazzle (5.11c)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 8, 2016

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Comments: The extension is funky weird but good.


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (m) Taboo Area : Taboo (5.12c)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 8, 2016

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Comments: Did this one a couple/few years ago. It's kinda mediocre I thought. Very short crux section for how long the dihedral is but hey sure it's a trad pitch at the quarry and you do have to punch it through the moves!


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (m) Taboo Area : Sins of the Flesh (5.12d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 8, 2016

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Comments: Even thought it's short, I think this warrants 3 stars. Except for the feet at the 1st move, there's zero choss! Thoughtful and powerful sequences and moves above the bolts!


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (e) Right of the Roof : Survival of the Fittest (5.12b)
By: Alex Shainman When: Dec 8, 2016

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Comments: The crux (upper hard move over a bulge) apparently received more breakage recently and the difficulty is quite a bit harder now. It's very out of character with the rest of the route and a bit of a shoulder wrecker. The right hand that was, I believe, a mini brick shaped pinch is gone. What remains is a small low crimp and that's it, other than that miserable sloper out there for the left hand.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Leaning Tower Area : Fifi Buttress : Romulan Freebird (5.12c)
By: Alex Shainman When: Oct 24, 2016

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Comments: This is a really good route! I would definitely recommend going to the top if you have time.

Main reason to post:

As of yesterday, on at least a couple pitches, there are anchor bolt nuts (threaded wedge style) that are barely finger-tight. Bring an adjustable crescent wrench to tighten them.

Have fun!!!


Location: California : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Ankles Away (5.11+ PG13)
By: Alex Shainman When: Sep 23, 2016

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Ankles Away
Ankles Away


Rock Climbing Photo: Catalogue (plus pic of Pyromania)
Catalogue (plus pic of Pyromania)


Photo and catalogue that doug rouse is referring to...


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Planet X (5.13b)
By: Alex Shainman When: Sep 14, 2016

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Comments: Excellent route!

I removed four junk in-situ Petzl "team" draws off the last 4 bolts; they all are quite old, worn and way beyond prime condition. In addition to tattered webbing, the "bottom" bent-gate biner was grooved enough for someone to switch it up to the bolt-hanger clip in point. The "top" straight-gate biner is held by the rubber keeper and being used down at the rope clipping end. Thes... more >>


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : spaceballs (5.12+)
By: Alex Shainman When: Sep 14, 2016

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Comments: This is a good line and a great addition but it needs more ascents/cleaning.
Four weeks ago, 3 holds broke on me. One of them was a key left foot for the beginning of the harder arete moves up high...


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Free Beaks (5.12b)
By: Alex Shainman When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: The corner is short but really cool and a fun diversion from the crimpin nearby. I'd recommend having extra cams in the mid/larger sizes listed above...
Definitely seemed height dependent. Great addition!


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Buehler's Day Off (5.12c/d)
By: Alex Shainman When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: The rock quality doesn't start out great and the cheater-stone pile is a bit wobbly but I think this is a very good pitch - it's so different than everything else in the canyon. There's no just reaching through the crux on this one...You gotta tech-stem burl it out! Most will only need 2 or 3 cams in the #.5 - #2 Camalot range for the crack before the last bolt. No gear necessary over the roof. Go do it!!!


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