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Member Since: Oct 19, 2003
Last Visit: Jun 25, 2017
Contact Alex Chiang

Point Rank: # -none-
Total Points: 0

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Alex Chiang been climbing?










Contributions


All 36 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 5 | Posts | Stars 30 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pywiack Area : Pywiak Dome : Zee Tree (5.7)
By: Alex Chiang When: Jun 21, 2016

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Comments: We were here on Saturday, June 18, 2016, and simply could not find the bolts.

I feel fairly certain that we were in the right place (not like the poster just above), and we climbed up and down the start several times.

I hate to say it but it really felt like the bolts have been removed, but of course someone who has definitely done it before should confirm.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Middle Cathedral Rock : Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9)
By: Alex Chiang When: Jul 28, 2015

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Comments: It is possible to bump a #3 BD cam almost the entire length of P3, but the section is long enough that you'd want to have at least 2 of them and leave one at the halfway mark.

I have hands on the smaller side, but the fact that the #3 is sufficient means that this pitch is more like fists for me, than an actual OW.

A #4 isn't strictly necessary (but I guess wouldn't hurt). Just make sure you save 2 pieces of that size for *after* the roof and you'll be fine.


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Pinnacle : Batman and Robin (5.6)
By: Alex Chiang When: Jun 12, 2004

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Comments: Cool route. We didn't summit, because we got sleeted on near the top and we just wanted off. Instead of going all the way to the summit and rapping off, we traversed around to the backside where there's an easy downclimb for about 10 feet which will allow you to descend via the west descent gully.


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Good Timing (5.10a)
By: Alex Chiang When: Jun 6, 2004

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Comments: I had the 2001 Gillett book, and it claims a 5.9 rating, which I thought was legit, albeit on the stiff side. Then again, I expect most routes at Lumpy to be stiff, so take that comment for what it's worth.

The roof on P1 protects nicely for the leader, as you can get a piece in above your head, but I couldn't figure out a good way to protect the second. Perhaps a #5 of profanity and a friendly "don't fall" comment while you're nice and safe at the belay bolts.

I only saw 3 bolts as of J... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Spoof (5.8+)
By: Alex Chiang When: Oct 19, 2003

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Comments: As if the slick rock and awkward pro weren't enough, climbing this route also requires wallowing through piles of pigeon guano and breathing poo dust. I would only recommend this route if you have climbed every other route in the canyon and simply need to get that last tick.


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

West Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : Daff Dome West Face

Southeast Buttress 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : Cathedral Peak

Northwest Buttress 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : Tenaya Peak

Commitment 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : Five Open Books

The Line 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

California : Lake Tahoe : ... : East Wall

Loud and Obnoxious 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : Dozier Dome

Sinbad-Herbert 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

California : Lake Tahoe : ... : Lower Buttress

Guiding Light 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : Lower Falls Amphitheatre

The Ladder 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

California : San Francisco Bay Area : ... : The Bubble

Bubble Boy 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

California : San Francisco Bay Area : ... : The Bubble

Silverado Squatters 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

California : San Francisco Bay Area : ... : The Bear

West Pillar Direct 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : Eichorn Pinnacle

Northwest Books 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : Northwest Face

North Ridge Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : Mt. Conness

Bear's Reach 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

California : Lake Tahoe : ... : East Wall

Snott Girlz 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

North America : Mexico : ... : Mota Wall

East Wall 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

California : Lake Tahoe : ... : East Wall

Singing Love Pen 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Nevada : Red Rock : ... : Moderate Mecca

Trial By Fire 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : Royal Arches

Great White Book 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : Stately Pleasure Dome

Kidnapped 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

California : San Francisco Bay Area : ... : The Bear

Nutcracker 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R...

Pop Bottle 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

California : Lake Tahoe : ... : East Wall

Pine Line 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : El Capitan Base Routes

Shagadelic 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : Medlicott Dome, Center

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