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Member Since: Mar 13, 2006
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Aaron Miller
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Point Rank: # 418
Total Points: 1,745

17 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 739 | Routes 126 | Areas 14 | Approach Trails | Photos 55 | Page Improvements | Comments 167 | Posts 25 | Stars 306 | Ratings 46
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Winter Wall > Original Face Route (5.8-)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 22, 2017

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Comments: Thanks Bryan, also spreads people out a little bit more. Wouldn't hurt to have a few more like this here.


Location: New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Winter Wall > Naked Lunch (5.10-)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 22, 2017

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Comments: Cleaned some things off this route last weekend. You should be hard pressed to find loose holds, at least for a little while. Balanced pillar at base of route was a casualty, probably for the better. Its mostly in the arroyo now. If you plan to do this with a single 70m, be extra careful!! Enjoy.


Location: New Mexico > Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... > Capulin Canyon > Main Cliff > Monkey Business (5.11)
By: Aaron Miller When: Nov 27, 2017

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Comments: Thanks George. We tried this years ago too and thought it was too dirty and the top nearly impossible, so we didn't bolt it because we didn't think it was going to get climbed in its current state but discussed coming back sometime to finish cleaning it and make it a worthy climb. Cleaned out buckets of dirt and weeds from it yesterday (so much dirt cleaned that the lower flakes now flex 2-3mm in its upper 5’, which is why it needed a bolt) and it was clear it would be worthy in a shorter ve... more >>


Location: New Mexico > Truth or Consequences Area > Caballo Lake > Bat Cave Area > Bat Cave > 99 Problems (5.12d)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 3, 2017

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Comments: Dont be offended Rich, this Tim Putz is a troll. He likes to use big words in his posts but has no idea how to use them in proper context. He is just trying to get a rise out of you, but never has anything of value to add to any discussion. I wish the administrators would crack down on trolling like this, it would greatly improve the quality of the site.


Location: New Mexico > Taos Area > Vista Verde Crag > 5. Monster Wall > Heffalump (5.12)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 2, 2017

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Comments: This is almost an amazingly awesome route, as the corner climbing at the start (bolted crack with mostly face-climbing moves) is super fun. The climbing on the upper section is a little contrived. Like George says, its really close to the 11a just left of it (you can reach all the holds if desired). The intended finish, I presume heads to a hard to see little micro pocket up right, you need to reach blind to make the move over the bulge-arete. With that said, it was fun, safe, and worth doing.... more >>


Location: New Mexico > Taos Area > Vista Verde Crag > 6. Wayne Manor > Cat Woman (5.11-)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 2, 2017

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Comments: Shares anchor and last 3 bolts with Alfred, though it could have had its own independent ending up a beautiful blunt arete, on the better rock of the two. Also, we cleaned some rocks off this line yesterday, one intentionally out of the nice crack at second bolt, and one unintentionally, and unexpectedly up higher. Helmets on!


Location: New Mexico > Taos Area > Vista Verde Crag > 6. Wayne Manor > Frankenstone (5.12)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 2, 2017

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Comments: Starting moves are hard, but interesting. I really enjoyed the first 40 feet of climbing on great rock. Then the awkward mantle before the upper crux is not too bad, and worth doing, as long as you are willing to pull on the suspect block. Dont worry, its kept from sliding out by a series of 3 bolts, one of which has a hanger on it for your draw. Thankfully, it keeps your biner from being crossloaded, but you will probably want to use a sling instead of a dogbone as it will hang over a sharp 90... more >>


Location: New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... > Main Wall > 40-Love (5.12b)
By: Aaron Miller When: Sep 12, 2017

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Comments: Crux holds "changed" a little bit. Requires different footwork, still fantastic movement, better IMHO. Amy re-sent the route shortly after, no problem. No change in grade suggested.


Location: New Mexico > El Rito > El Rito Sport Area > Rad Wall > Stoker (5.12b)
By: Aaron Miller When: Jul 24, 2017

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Comments: Bolt 6 is not doing well. Its an old 5-piece, plated steel, spins freely, and will not tighten (just spins in place when wrenched). Be careful! It needs to be replaced.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Black Velvet Canyon > Whiskey Peak > Triassic Sands (5.10)
By: Aaron Miller When: May 15, 2017

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Comments: Decided to give this line a go at end of the day, looked so nice. Only had a double set of cams, but figured Id be ok in the gold size. Being conservative, I placed other cams when possible and only ended up using one gold. Never felt runout, just have to use other gear when you can.

Also, someone overcammed and lost 3 brand new BD ultralight .4 cams in the crux??? I tried to clean them out on the way down, gave up and just pushed them further in so they are not clogging the route. Someon... more >>


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Juniper Canyon > Brownstone Wall > The Nightcrawler (5.10+)
By: Aaron Miller When: May 15, 2017

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Comments: Would echo a-Ball's comment about the raps, wish we had fixed a tagline on P1 belay. Downclimbing is not hard, but the rock is not bomber the first 20', which makes it feel more serious.

Pitch five is definitely worth doing, wouldn't call it R, maybe PG13, I found some decent but cryptic gear placements up high. Also, the anchor atop P5 is suspect with the original 1/4" and rusting-in-place anchors, the bomber nut backup made me feel good about it, the knotted sling is probab... more >>


Location: New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Solar Cave > Photo
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 21, 2016

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Comments: So I did, George. Thanks for the comment.


Location: Arizona > Central Arizona > The Homestead
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 21, 2016

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Comments: Hey Homestead folks. Kudos on such a fun area, lots of great route artistry on quality limestone. Glad we came to check it out, had a blast. I wouldn't bring my Subaru in on that road, but 4WD pickup did OK, hard on the tires. We shuttled some folks in and out and they said about 1:45 walk to crag from campground. Psyched to get ride.

Just a comment on your bolting hardware. Most of the bolts are mixed metals, stainless hangers on plated bolts, and some are plated on plated. A fair n... more >>


Location: Arizona > Central Arizona > The Homestead > Rough Rider Wall > Roughians (5.10b/c)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 21, 2016

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Comments: Still lots of loose rock on this one.


Location: Arizona > Central Arizona > The Homestead > North Buttress > So Easy (5.11c)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 21, 2016

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Comments: the second bolt on this route is placed on uneven rock and, since the route traverses sharply here, causes the bolt to either crossload your draw or for the bolt to spin and loosen the nut. It would be VERY bad if something came loos or broke at the second bolt since that is the crux of the climb and you are a good 30' off the deck.

Otherwise, super fun climbing!


Location: Arizona > Central Arizona > The Homestead > Tufa City > Black Sunshine (5.12b)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 21, 2016

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Comments: This route is super fun with cool climbing and a great rest. Just dont blow the second clip (powerful) after the rest, you will likely come hurtling into the ledge.


Location: Arizona > Central Arizona > The Homestead > Tufa City > Tufa Yard Dash (5.11c)
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 21, 2016

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Comments: Heads up!!! There was a bee hive in the big pocket off the belay ledge that is needed to get to the first bolt. And because it requires a stick clip to get to the first fixed draw (crusty sun-bleached nylon anyhow), its not safely climbable unless you want to do some convoluted traverse in from the first bolt of the route to the right. The moves are possible without using the beehive pocket, but not safe!


Location: New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Solar Cave > Photo
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 15, 2016

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Comments: Damn, cant sneak anything by these days. ;)


Location: New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Sun Devil Wall > Suntoucher (5.11b/c) > Photo
By: Aaron Miller When: Dec 14, 2016

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Comments: Love the rainbow of draws!


Location: New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... > Main Wall > Frogger (5.9+)
By: Aaron Miller When: Oct 13, 2016

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Comments: Thanks Karl. Do you have any idea who was behind the development?


Location: New Mexico > Enchanted Tower > The Enchanted Tower > North (Left) Face > Rumplestiltskin (5.12a)
By: Aaron Miller When: Sep 26, 2016

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Comments: Re-bolted the route, removing the scary original 1988 SMC hangers and 5/16" hardware with burly 1/2" Rawl anchors and Fixe hangers. Enjoy!


Location: New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... > Main Wall > Mortal Kombat (5.12b)
By: Aaron Miller When: Aug 18, 2016

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Comments: The crux can be avoided by traversing way right off the block at the second fixed draw and keep the climbing under 5.12. Its not very aesthetic, nor as fun, but its a way to hang the draws if you are having trouble with the powerful crux move.


Location: New Mexico > Enchanted Tower > Humpty Dumpty Wall > All the Kings Horses (5.12-)
By: Aaron Miller When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: seemed noticeably harder than Humpty, but it was pretty crumbly and hard to read without much chalk on it. I ran it twice to get the grit out of the pockets and had a fun time. Still could use more traffic.


Location: New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... > Main Wall > Pull to Live (5.11d)
By: Aaron Miller When: Apr 15, 2016

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Comments: The glued-on finish holds fell apart and were cleaned as of April 8, 2016. As of September 2017, rebolted the finish to accommodate changes in the route. Its now longer, more sustained, with a better finish and its own direct anchor.


Location: New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Sun Devil Wall > Appendicitis (5.10a)
By: Aaron Miller When: Jan 26, 2016

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Comments: It is best to do this route in 2 pitches as the bolting is not in a plumb line. Instead of belaying from the mid anchors, it is much better to climb a little higher to a huge comfortable ledge where you can clip a bolt and place a bomber gold camalot as an anchor. This ledge is too high to rappel from with a single rope so use the nice bolted midway anchor to lower from on your way down.

As a side note, there was a fatal accident on this route resulting from a rigging mistake while descending ... more >>


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