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Member Since: Mar 21, 2008
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Point Rank: # 3,882
Total Points: 180

2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 400 | Routes 2 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 32 | Page Improvements | Comments 90 | Posts 117 | Stars 92 | Ratings 67
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah > Moab Area > Potash Road > Long Canyon > Deadman's Buttress > Program Director (5.10)
By: 303scott When: Dec 7, 2017

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Comments: #3 C4s protect the upper section well. You probably want at least one #4 for the very top (and can stuff one or two at various points along the way if you need to).


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > 2nd Meat Wall > Sesh One Cooking (5.11-)
By: 303scott When: Nov 27, 2017

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Comments: this is a solid three star route that should see more traffic. agree, two .5s and lots of reds and greens. one #2 for the finish.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Public Service Wall > Unknown 5.10a? - 30 ft R of... (5.10-)
By: 303scott When: Nov 13, 2017

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Comments: not 5.10-mildly runout


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Public Service Wall > Go Drown in a Lake of Diet ... (5.11-)
By: 303scott When: Nov 13, 2017

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Comments: Great route-don't forget your .75s.... a bunch of them


Location: Colorado > South Platte > Buffalo Creek > The Castle
By: 303scott When: Oct 16, 2017

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Comments: The trail is hard to find coming down because you don't expect to have to go that far west to find it, but going up, it is quite easy. Step one, disregard entirely what the guidebook says. Step two, drive counterclockwise around the lake until it dead ends at the Boy Scout camp gate. Park on the right a few feet before the gate (room for 4-6 cars). When you are standing in the road facing the boy scout gate, turn left. Follow signs to the Waterfall trail: it starts about 100 feet left of the... more >>


Location: Colorado > South Platte > Buffalo Creek > The Castle > Throne Room (5.10)
By: 303scott When: Oct 16, 2017

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Comments: The newish SPlatte guidebook suggests that P1 and P2 are 100 feet each and can be run together. Assuming P2 should end at the alcove that forms the OW crux, then that doesn't work. P1 is about 140 feet to the start of the traverse and with a 70m you run out of rope way before (like 40 or 50 feet) the standard P2 belay.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Blob Rock Area > Blob Rock > ... > Where Eagles Dare (5.10b)
By: 303scott When: Jul 31, 2017

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Comments: I would recommend running this in two pitches. P1 - ground to the top of the .8 runout section (skip intermediate bolted anchor), and belay at a bolted anchor just under the big roof. P2 run to the top. We carried a #4 but didn't use it. Felt the crux was well-protected with a #5 or so, BD stopper at your chest and a red Alien at your knees when you leave the jug. Not sure if we were on the right route for the final pitch, but it was definitely not .8. 15 feet of steep 0.5 Camalots to 15 fe... more >>


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > The Diamond > Forrest Finish (5.10)
By: 303scott When: Jul 20, 2017

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Comments: We did a short pitch (~80 feet) per the newest guidebook from the right side of crossover ledge to just below the OW start of FF. That set up for a burly and fantastic 200 foot pitch to Yellow Wall bivy ledge. Extremely physical. From there, it was another fantastic 200 foot pitch to Almost Table Ledge anchors. On that final pitch, when the crack appears to run out, you can stay slightly right (~ 2 feet) of the crack that ended or traverse left into Black Dagger's upper section. I stayed rig... more >>


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Heartbreaker > Heartbreaker (5.10d)
By: 303scott When: Jun 20, 2017

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Comments: Way better to approach this route from counterclockwise- much less bushwacking. Very nice route, very questionable anchor. Felt more like 5.10.


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > The Boxtop > Boxtop Crack (5.6)
By: 303scott When: Jun 20, 2017

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Comments: Climbed this line and traversed right to the arete after the obvious handcrack ends. Airy position, a bit of spice and some initially very thin gear after the traverse get you to the right side of the boxtop traverse. Probably goes around .7 or .8 R.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... > Grandmother's Challenge (5.10c)
By: 303scott When: May 18, 2017

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Comments: This is outstanding as a single pitch - one of the best 240 foot climbs around.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > The Wall > The Schoolmaster (5.10 A0 PG13)
By: 303scott When: Mar 6, 2017

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Comments: Fun tower and a great way to end a day at the wall. The starting pitch has two options: squeeze chimney from the get-go or 20 feet of a slanting hand to finger crack to get to the squeeze. We chose the squeeze, which was quite enjoyable. A #1 behind a chockstone provides some psychological pro to get into the squeeze, and then 35 feet of unprotected chimney climbing. However, it is a perfect squeeze, albeit a bit tight at the start, so you aren't going to fall out. Larger folks may have ... more >>


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Original Meat Wall > Right Arm (5.10d)
By: 303scott When: Dec 28, 2016

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Comments: as others have indicated, definitely harder than sinestra


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The West Ridge > West Ridge - part A - Versc... > Initial Route (5.9)
By: 303scott When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: Found this hidden gem when perusing the book for something to do after Allosaur. If Grand Giraffe is 9+, then this is accurately graded at 9-. If you take the standard traverse in as if going to Allosaur, the start is just after you make a big step down past a juniper bush and just before the 15 feet of slab trending up and right. A #4 was nice on the third pitch and useless weight on the second. The easiest way down is to rap the same raps as Allosaur, which are up and left (NW) of the finish ... more >>


Location: Colorado > Gunnison > Black Canyon of the Gunniso... > North Rim Routes > The Checkerboard Wall > Monkey and the Engineer (5.10-)
By: 303scott When: Oct 3, 2016

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Comments: Here's a little more detail on location and pitches. The start is about about 15 feet left of Maiden Voyage.

P1. Locate a short, left-angling seam/crack and climb that for about 20-30 feet. Cut right before the big corner starts until you are basically above the start of Maiden Voyage. Continue up the crack for 15 feet, and then angle left back towards the apex of the .11 variation roof on an easy traverse. Take an extremely thin flake up and left to join the .11 variation above the ... more >>


Location: Colorado > South Platte > Devil's Head > The Headstone > Slab Variation (5.9)
By: 303scott When: Jun 24, 2016

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Comments: Nice slab climb - definitely gets you prepped for slab climbing other routes nearby. Harder than the slab on Topaz.


Location: Colorado > South Platte > Devil's Head > The Starcastle > The Citadel (5.10b)
By: 303scott When: Jun 23, 2016

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Comments: While the lower section is a bit in your face, I think the technical crux is at and above the last bolt going to the anchors. Really nice route with a little bit of spice to it.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - S Buttress > Archer McLanahan (5.10)
By: 303scott When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: Even with the new bolt, I think this merits a more serious rating than the PG in Levin's new book. If you belay from the large ledge about 50 feet below, I suspect you would hit the intermediate ledge if you blew the crux. If you belay directly below the crux dihedral, you would have a better chance of avoiding the ledge, but it would still be a long, awkward fall. The crux is 8-10 feet above the bolt.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Bitty Buttress > Right Crack or Last Crack (... (5.10b)
By: 303scott When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: Fun route and worth doing if you are in the area. Unfortunately, ends in a dirty thin corner that detracts from the climb overall. NO ANCHOR even though the book indicates one - downclimb low 5th class to the west (or downlead). There are two cold shuts about 30 feet west of the route, but easier to just downclimb.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > 4X4 > Unnamed 5.10- w/ LF corner ... (5.10-)
By: 303scott When: Apr 25, 2016

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Comments: This route has nice position on the cliff and very good climbing. one #4 is ok, two would be better.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The West Ridge > West Ridge - part E - top t... > Whiplash (5.10b)
By: 303scott When: Mar 13, 2016

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Comments: As with others, I am a bit confused on which side of the block one climbs for this route. I took the right side of the block (not shown in Tony's photos) which was pretty much perfect hands on very steep rock. Sew it up with 1 each orange and red Metolius, 2 yellow C4s, and 1 blue C4 for the 20 feet of easy climbing after the roof to the anchors (optional). Fun, short climb.

The anchor is a 5 inch slung "tree," with a highly questionable root system, backed up to a bush. Not the worst I have se... more >>


Location: Colorado > Golden > North Table Mountain/Golden... > Overhang Area > The Ground Doesn't Lie (5.10c/d)
By: 303scott When: Dec 21, 2015

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Comments: FYI, the third bolt is loose (not just a spinning hanger, the bolt itself is loose in the hole).


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Glacier Gorge > Spearhead > East Prow (5.9+)
By: 303scott When: Jul 28, 2015

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Comments: Some additional route finding beta in case you, like us, forgot any sort of topo or route map and only have the MP printout. Also, we felt the ratings were a bit sandbagged and have listed them like we would call them.

P1. 5.7-.8. You are looking for a right-facing corner with a big “ear” to the right about 25 feet up. Climb around the ear to the right to the top of it, and then head up and left on a thin seam. You are aiming for a good ledge near a “tooth” about 180 feet up and below a h... more >>


Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Capitalist Crag > Lower Capitalist Crag > Contra (5.11b)
By: 303scott When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: If Strohs and Venture Capital are 11a, this is easily 11b. The rock is fairly friable so maybe some holds have broken off? Two distinct .11 cruxes I thought.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > North Six Shooter Peak > Lightning Bolt Cracks (5.11-)
By: 303scott When: Feb 17, 2015

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Comments: If you want to lug a #6 camalot up it protects the first pitch OW quite nicely. Definitely not necessary, but I was glad to have it.


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