REI Community

Member Since: Mar 21, 2008
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact 303scott

Point Rank: # 5,284
Total Points: 75

2 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3

Where has 303scott been climbing?


All 383 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 32 | Page Improvements | Comments 83 | Posts 115 | Stars 86 | Ratings 65
Page 1 of 4.  1  2  3  4   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Forrest Finish (5.10)
By: 303scott When: 3 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: We did a short pitch (~80 feet) per the newest guidebook from the right side of crossover ledge to just below the OW start of FF. That set up for a burly and fantastic 200 foot pitch to Yellow Wall bivy ledge. Extremely physical. From there, it was another fantastic 200 foot pitch to Almost Table Ledge anchors. On that final pitch, when the crack appears to run out, you can stay slightly right (~ 2 feet) of the crack that ended or traverse left into Black Dagger's upper section. I stayed rig... more >>

Location: Idaho : South Idaho : City of Rocks : Heartbreaker : Heartbreaker (5.10d)
By: 303scott When: Jun 20, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Way better to approach this route from counterclockwise- much less bushwacking. Very nice route, very questionable anchor. Felt more like 5.10.

Location: Idaho : South Idaho : City of Rocks : The Boxtop : Boxtop Crack (5.6)
By: 303scott When: Jun 20, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed this line and traversed right to the arete after the obvious handcrack ends. Airy position, a bit of spice and some initially very thin gear after the traverse get you to the right side of the boxtop traverse. Probably goes around .7 or .8 R.

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Grandmother's Challenge (5.10c)
By: 303scott When: May 18, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This is outstanding as a single pitch - one of the best 240 foot climbs around.

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : The Schoolmaster (5.10 A0 PG13)
By: 303scott When: Mar 6, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Fun tower and a great way to end a day at the wall. The starting pitch has two options: squeeze chimney from the get-go or 20 feet of a slanting hand to finger crack to get to the squeeze. We chose the squeeze, which was quite enjoyable. A #1 behind a chockstone provides some psychological pro to get into the squeeze, and then 35 feet of unprotected chimney climbing. However, it is a perfect squeeze, albeit a bit tight at the start, so you aren't going to fall out. ... more >>

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Right Arm (5.10d)
By: 303scott When: Dec 28, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: as others have indicated, definitely harder than sinestra

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Initial Route (5.9)
By: 303scott When: Nov 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Found this hidden gem when perusing the book for something to do after Allosaur. If Grand Giraffe is 9+, then this is accurately graded at 9-. If you take the standard traverse in as if going to Allosaur, the start is just after you make a big step down past a juniper bush and just before the 15 feet of slab trending up and right. A #4 was nice on the third pitch and useless weight on the second. The easiest way down is to rap the same raps as Allosaur, which are up and left (NW) of the f... more >>

Location: Colorado : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : The Checkerboard Wall : Monkey and the Engineer (5.10-)
By: 303scott When: Oct 3, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Here's a little more detail on location and pitches. The start is about about 15 feet left of Maiden Voyage.

P1. Locate a short, left-angling seam/crack and climb that for about 20-30 feet. Cut right before the big corner starts until you are basically above the start of Maiden Voyage. Continue up the crack for 15 feet, and then angle left back towards the apex of the .11 variation roof on an easy traverse. Take an extremely thin flake up and left to join the .11 vari... more >>

Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Headstone : Slab Variation (5.9)
By: 303scott When: Jun 24, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Nice slab climb - definitely gets you prepped for slab climbing other routes nearby. Harder than the slab on Topaz.

Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Starcastle : The Citadel (5.10b)
By: 303scott When: Jun 23, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: While the lower section is a bit in your face, I think the technical crux is at and above the last bolt going to the anchors. Really nice route with a little bit of spice to it.

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Archer McLanahan (5.10)
By: 303scott When: Jun 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Even with the new bolt, I think this merits a more serious rating than the PG in Levin's new book. If you belay from the large ledge about 50 feet below, I suspect you would hit the intermediate ledge if you blew the crux. If you belay directly below the crux dihedral, you would have a better chance of avoiding the ledge, but it would still be a long, awkward fall. The crux is 8-10 feet above the bolt.

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Right Crack or Last Crack (... (5.10b)
By: 303scott When: May 31, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Fun route and worth doing if you are in the area. Unfortunately, ends in a dirty thin corner that detracts from the climb overall. NO ANCHOR even though the book indicates one - downclimb low 5th class to the west (or downlead). There are two cold shuts about 30 feet west of the route, but easier to just downclimb.

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Unnamed 5.10- w/ LF corner ... (5.10-)
By: 303scott When: Apr 25, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This route has nice position on the cliff and very good climbing. one #4 is ok, two would be better.

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Whiplash (5.10b)
By: 303scott When: Mar 13, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: As with others, I am a bit confused on which side of the block one climbs for this route. I took the right side of the block (not shown in Tony's photos) which was pretty much perfect hands on very steep rock. Sew it up with 1 each orange and red Metolius, 2 yellow C4s, and 1 blue C4 for the 20 feet of easy climbing after the roof to the anchors (optional). Fun, short climb.

The anchor is a 5 inch slung "tree," with a highly questionable root system, backed up to a bush. Not the worst I have se... more >>

Location: Colorado : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : The Ground Doesn't Lie (5.10c/d)
By: 303scott When: Dec 21, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: FYI, the third bolt is loose (not just a spinning hanger, the bolt itself is loose in the hole).

Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : East Prow (5.9+)
By: 303scott When: Jul 28, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Some additional route finding beta in case you, like us, forgot any sort of topo or route map and only have the MP printout. Also, we felt the ratings were a bit sandbagged and have listed them like we would call them.

P1. 5.7-.8. You are looking for a right-facing corner with a big “ear” to the right about 25 feet up. Climb around the ear to the right to the top of it, and then head up and left on a thin seam. You are aiming for a good ledge near a “tooth” about 180 feet up and below a h... more >>

Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : Contra (5.11b)
By: 303scott When: Jul 13, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: If Strohs and Venture Capital are 11a, this is easily 11b. The rock is fairly friable so maybe some holds have broken off? Two distinct .11 cruxes I thought.

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak : Lightning Bolt Cracks (5.11-)
By: 303scott When: Feb 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: If you want to lug a #6 camalot up it protects the first pitch OW quite nicely. Definitely not necessary, but I was glad to have it.

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Perversion (5.9)
By: 303scott When: Jan 26, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The route doesn't get sun until late morning this time of year (like 1030-11). First pitch is a stout warm-up with a tricky upper crux - could be top-rope protected if you bring a #4 Camalot. Highly recommend breaking up pitch 2 into two shorter pitches - our rope got hung up in the loose blocks, and I had to rap a fixed line to free it - would have been avoided if we moved the belay to the p-2 belay for Verging on Perversion.

Finally, there are new bolted rap stations that a single 70m... more >>

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : The Trial (5.10)
By: 303scott When: Jan 20, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Looks like the anchors were moved higher. From where we belayed, it was a full 120 foot pitch. With the higher anchor location you end with about 15 feet of thin/sandy laybacking- remember to bring orange and yellow mastercams for the top or be prepared to run it out a bit. This climb felt like solid 10+ to me.

Location: Colorado : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome : Fractured Fairytales (5.7)
By: 303scott When: Nov 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Dan, thanks for the route description, it was spot on (as usual). Fun romp up Helen's Dome and a great intro to the area. Gradewise I would suggest something around 5.5 or 5.6. That is based on doing Spree and Gettin the Groove after FF, both of which were significantly harder. So if those are .8 and .7 respectively, I would say FF is more like 5.6.

One hanger missing on the 4th pitch as of yesterday, but the terrain is easy. There may be one missing on the last pitch, but you are litera... more >>

Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Sinners On Sunday (5.12- C0)
By: 303scott When: Aug 18, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Hey Monty, glad you liked the route and thanks for posting that sweet pic! Regarding the C0 versus A0 rating, I know next to nothing about aid. However, my understanding of clean aid is that if a party can ascend the route without a hammer it is clean aid (even if bolts are present). Of course, that could be completely wrong, and I will be happy to change it if that's the case!

Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Sinners On Sunday (5.12- C0)
By: 303scott When: Aug 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks, Mike! I believe you can rap with a 70m to the anchors at the top of p1 of the route (p2 of Rainbow Highway) based on another party telling me my ends reached - I have not done it. However, you can't get to the ground (although you could probably build an intermediate anchor and clean it on the way up). I have rapped to the bottom of the crux pitch (pitch 3) on a single 70m. A few of the raps are pretty close, so watch ends. It is in prime shape right now, so let us know what you think... more >>

Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Sinners On Sunday (5.12- C0)
By: 303scott When: Aug 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: As a follow up, I have not given this route any stars. Much like a proud new father, I would likely find it beautiful no matter what: 5 stars on a 4-star scale. Thus, we will wait to see what the community thinks. Enjoy!

Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Sinners On Sunday (5.12- C0)
By: 303scott When: Aug 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks, Joe! As you know it was a bit of work. Here's the history: This route first caught my eye on September 16, 2012. Rainbow Highway had just been completed, and the reviews from friends were that it was spectacular. My cousin and I rappelled in on that day, and, on the rappel from the top of the 4th pitch, I noticed what appeared to be a very dirty, splitter, finger crack in slightly less than vertical rock on a perfectly clean face. It was love at first sight…. The entire route was... more >>

Page 1 of 4.  1  2  3  4   Next>   Last>>

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About