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Member Since: Feb 2, 2009
Last Visit: 17 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 624
Total Points: 1,128

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3

Where has 20 kN been climbing?


All 3514 | Routes 65 | Areas 1 | Photos 136 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 39 | Posts 3133 | Stars 112 | Ratings 27
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Contributed Comments


Location: Hawaii : Oahu : Mokule'ia Wall : Pig Tree (5.8+)
By: 20 kN When: May 16, 2017

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Comments: ^^^I dont know why you need to be a 5.10 leader to climb a 5.8...?

Anyway, if you're leading pay attention to what you're doing. I saw some girl get to the ledge and start climbing left, 15' away form the bolts. By the time she realized she was off route she was 20' above her last bolt and looking at a pretty serious situation. If you cant reach the bolts you're obviously not on route. The chalk doesent always lend the correct path but the bolts always will.

Location: Hawaii : Oahu : Mokule'ia Wall : Burnt Offerings (5.11c)
By: 20 kN When: May 14, 2017

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Comments: It was .11a at one time, but stuff broke off as is the story with many routes at The Moke.

Location: Hawaii : Oahu : Mokule'ia Wall : Dragon Cock-6 (5.12a)
By: 20 kN When: Apr 30, 2017

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Comments: The route is better than I initially expected. The rock quality is not spectacular, but the movement is pretty solid and climbing through the grey thin seam around bolts 7-8 is pretty seller. The route is fairly sustained in the upper section and leaves a nice surprise for you right before the last bolt. While it's not the hardest .12a at the crag it's certainly not the easiest either. I'd give it 2.5 stars.

Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Frogland (5.8)
By: 20 kN When: Apr 15, 2017

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Comments: Lose 1/2" bolt protecting the crux on pitch five. Pitch five's crux (5.8) is protected by a single 1/2" Power's 5-piece bolt, and the machine bolt and hanger spins easily (you could remove the bolt by hand if you tried).

If you have an adjustable wrench, bring it so you can tighten the bolt. I tried to tighten it with my nut tool but I was unsuccessful.

Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Wonder Wall : Evil Shenanigans (5.11b)
By: 20 kN When: Jan 14, 2017

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Comments: The nameplate at the bottom of the route is no longer there. That or I missed it, and I looked pretty hard. You can rap the whole route with a 60m. Pitch three is the best pitch, one is reasonable, two is just okay.

Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : The Conundrums : Pitch Black (5.10+)
By: 20 kN When: Jan 13, 2017

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Comments: Great route. I'd give it 3.5 stars. This is one of the more sustained 5.10s in EPC and it's totally worth doing. Be sure to bring a 70m or two ropes as a 60m wont work. P2 is sustained and fantastic, lead it! I dident feel like the upper 5.10d was 5.10d. Either P2 is 5.11- or P4 is not 5.10+.

Also, it looks like the bolts on this route have been replaced, but the old bolts remain. It would be great if someone would bring an adjustable wrench up with them ... more >>

Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Front Side aka El Toro : ... : Satori (5.10c)
By: 20 kN When: Jan 12, 2017

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Comments: Satori is one of the best climbs in EPC, and possibly the best 5.10 multipitch in the park. Dont underestimate its value just because it's not on the Jungle Wall or some mega-classic that gets climbed day in and day out. The rock quality is exceptional and the movement is quite fun. The route is quite a bit better than many other classics in EPC.

Location: Hawaii : Oahu : Mokule'ia Wall : Double Dragon (5.12a PG13)
By: 20 kN When: Dec 15, 2016

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Comments: I wouldent call it PG-13.

Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Penny Lane (5.9)
By: 20 kN When: Oct 6, 2016

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Comments: Great route, although I dont understand why the most popular route in the entire area doesent have an anchor, but the three routes left and right of this route do. People just end up raining rock fall down on everyone as they cut left. It used to have an anchor, it still should.

Also, you dont need a 70m to get to the ground, a 60m makes it in one rap no problem.

Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Freeway (5.11c)
By: 20 kN When: Sep 29, 2016

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Comments: Great route and absolutely worth doing, although I cant quite give it four stars as the route has a fair amount of lichen and moss on it in places. Maybe it's just a seasonal thing though.

We cut left on P7 and took the Express Lane variation. Just a heads up if you go via that route. Cutting left on P7 mostly involves face climbing with a few random bolts for pro (four in total), but there is a section toward the end of the pitch where you must pull some fairly challenging ... more >>

Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (1) Northeast Face : Lost in Space (5.10b/c)
By: 20 kN When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: If this climb where four single pitch lines on the ground, the only one worth doing would be pitch three. Pitch one is chossy and you get to enjoy figuring out which of the eight belay stations you're supposed to stop at. Pitch two is pretty much a one-move wonder off a boulder, and then pitch three is actually fairly fun in that it's sustained and well off the deck.

All in all, I dident feel like this climb was very memorable, largely due to the rock qua... more >>

Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Trout Creek
By: 20 kN When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: How long does the approach take? Parts of the guide make it sound rather long and others make it sound short.

Location: Hawaii : Oahu : Makapu'u Point : Route 7 (5.6)
By: 20 kN When: Sep 5, 2016

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Comments: This route is supposed to be trad, but it is possible to clip bolts from a near-by route if you wish.

By: 20 kN When: Aug 16, 2016

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Comments: How not to build an anchor.

Location: Colorado : 10 Mile Canyon : Mount Royal (near Frisco) : Royal Flush (5.9)
By: 20 kN When: Jun 18, 2016

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Comments: I found this route to be pretty chill, even with the runouts. If you're solid climbing 5.10 outdoors, you don't need any gear. I was actually skipping bolts to reduce drag, and I rarely skip bolts. Further, the three crux sections on the route are slab moves, and I didn't see many options for gear, so if you did bring gear, it would mostly protect the easier pitches.

This route is really easy, even for the grade. There are probably thr... more >>

Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon
By: 20 kN When: Apr 23, 2016

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Comments: What a great place to climb! It's like a mini Potrero Chico. Thanks to all those putting in all the hard work to develop this area. I only have one complaint--the anchors used in the canyon. Many of the routes are equipped with the Fixe single ring anchors. Those things are literally the worst possible thing you could place at the top of a sport route. Because the rings do not meet in the center to form a single point, they totally and permanently twist the living shit out of your rope when you ... more >>

Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : New Dawn (5.8+ A3)
By: 20 kN When: Apr 14, 2016

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Comments: No, it's not. That means you need cams that will protect a 4.5" wide crack, which in the case of BD Camalots that would be a #5 or a fairly tipped out #4.

Location: Utah : Saint George : Turtle Wall : Turtle Soup (5.10)
By: 20 kN When: Apr 6, 2016

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Comments: Maybe I'm missing something but I onsighted the .11d and both .11cs right to the right of this route and I fell twice on the OS attempt of this one. I'm going to go ahead and guess something broke off. .11d compared to the .11s around the corner IMO. Maybe I'm just blind.

Location: Fixed Hardware: Bolting & A... : Rock Strength : Examples of General Rock St...
By: 20 kN When: Feb 11, 2016

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Comments: The Rock Type Compressive Strength Range is off. For example, sandstone can be far softer than the quoted minimal value of 2,900 PSI. In reality, soft sandstone can be as low as 500 PSI or even lower for low-quality sandstone.

Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 30 - The Rostrum : The North Face (5.11c)
By: 20 kN When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: Maybe I was having a poor day (probably since I got up at 4 AM), but this route felt extremely hard for 11c. Maybe no single move is harder than .11c, but the route felt quite rather sustained at 5.11. Then again it does have a lot of wide crack on it, and I suck at wide crack, so.... Anyway, it is a great route and totally worth doing.

We took the 5.10"R" middle flake on P2. Mind the feet are a bit slippery. You can protect the entire flake with cams, but the flake seems if it's just suspended... more >>

Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Fool's Gold (5.12+)
By: 20 kN When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: Overall, aside from the first two pitches, I found the climbing to travel over rather chossy rock. Specifically, the 5.0, 5.10b and 5.11b pitches are a bit on the chossy side. Worst of all, there is a massive ledge at the base of the .12+ pitch, and it is completely covered in bird shit, which of course got all over me, my shoes, my rope, draws, etc.

I think the route has potential, but it needs a lot of trundling, cleaning, and deep scrubbing before it could legitimately receive three stars. T... more >>

Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Too! (5.12a/b)
By: 20 kN When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: Beta for the multipitch version:

The 3rd pitch, called 5.5 X in the guidebook, is probably more like R-rated. It's about 80% fourth class and then some easy 5th at the top. There is one bolt on this pitch, but it's inconveniently located about 20' below the actual crux. The "crux" section of the 5.5 is very easy obviously, but it was completely, utterly covered in lichen when I tried it.

Anyway, pretty much everything above P1 is mostly unclimbed. It's glaringly obvious almost no one climbs th... more >>

Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall : Wild Child (5.11a/b)
By: 20 kN When: Oct 8, 2015

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Comments: There are a few loose blocks on this route. They might never come off, or they might come off tomorrow, who knows? Just something to keep in the back of your mind when yarding on the blocks from directly under them. A number of holds had chalked Xs on them, indicating they were loose (and indeed they were).

We rapped with a single 60.

Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Cle... (5.8 C1)
By: 20 kN When: Sep 16, 2015

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Comments: Note that you cannot rap this route with a single 70m. You either need two 50s or one 80m.

Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Front Side aka El Toro : ... : Land of the Free (5.12b PG13)
By: 20 kN When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: Often ignored, but one of the best climbs in EPC! The exposure is incredible and the climbing is fun. Bolt spacing is fairly legit. I think the 5.10 pitches only had about four bolts on them, and the 5.11 pitches were often spaced 10-15' between bolts. The only time I remember the spacing coming closer than 10' was during the crux of the 5.11+ and 5.12 pitch. Falls are clean though. A single rack to about a #1 Camalot will help here and there.

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