Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
GPS: 44.24944, -70.96504
FA: Ray Rice, 2015
Page Views: 75 total · 42/month
Shared By: Ryan DeLena on Aug 16, 2026
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall, Chris Duca

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: BOTH the trails and the cliffs are on private property. Please "go lightly" and read the details. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Another long and varied pitch. This route is given the curious grade of 10d/11a in the book. If you’re shorter it will likely feel harder. 

Start just right of the large overhang and climb a fairly non descript face to the high first bolt, move left through easy terrain a clip another high bolt beneath an overhang. Bust out the roof with long reaches between big holds, gaining another ledge. Move up to a spectacular dike feature with huge quartz crystals. Burly laybacking on crystals (way cool) will see you through the dike to another stance. Climb a final crux through a black face to easier ground, and romp to a 2 bolt anchor with Mussy Hooks. 

The varied nature of each crux, as well as the number of rests you get, make this a great warm up for the area.

Location Suggest change

Walk past the large roofs of the Wild Rumpus area, passing a section of overhanging white rock with a few climbs on it. The first climb to the right of the overhanging white rock is Schlong One.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with Mussy Hooks. Stick clip recommended for the high first bolt.

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