Lunch Ledge

This route must have received a lot of climbing in the early days in the Valley.  In the 1956 edition to A Climber's to the High Sierra, Hervey Voge describes it as "Many climbers enjoy the excellent climbing to this point with almost unexcelled rappelling as a climax; the Lunch Ledge and the routes above are undoubtedly the most popular roped climbs in the Valley."

Lunch Ledge is listed in the 1964 Roper guidebook A Climber's Guide to Yosemite Valley as Grade II, 5.6.

I have climbed Lunch Ledge many times including a couple of solos.  I have also done the Direct Route twice.  Several years ago, I replaced the slings on all the rappels.  Expect to modify some of them at this time.  They will be worn and faded.

Rappel the route with a single rope.  A double rope will get you farther, but the rope will tangle on the many trees along the way and is not worth the trouble.

There are no hard sections.  The Direct Route topo for Lunch Ledge in that section is not the easy way.  Use a 60M rope and plan to climb it in 5 pitches as shown in the topo.  The route wanders a lot and there will be a lot of rope drag.  This route would have been climbed with a 40-50M rope in the 60s to 90s.

The route starts at the base of the chimney separating the Royal Arches from the Column.  Take the bike path north over the Sugar Pine Bridge.  When the bike path is next to the valley loop trail, follow the loop trail for a short distance.  Keep your eyes open for a trail off the left side of the path that takes you to the Column.  When the rock at the base of the column comes into view, proceed left for several hundred feet.  Arrive at the separation between the Royal Arches/ Column and drop your pack and shoes.

There are trees, pitons, and bolted anchors along the way. A single set of cams and stoppers will do.

To approach the start of the climb, move left 200 ft. and up Cl 3-4 slabs to the separation of the Arches and Column. Locate a hanger and pin scars on the wall.

P1. Drop down 25 ft., around a corner and diagonal right and up, passing a tree.  Move right into a wide gulley and up to the belay at a bolt and two pins.  If the tree was not slung, the rope can be flipped to protect the follower.

P2. Proceed up easy rock for 60 ft. and traverse upward and rightward passing a two bolt rappel anchor.  Move left around a small arete onto a ramp passing a forked tree.  Continue up for 25 ft. and step right around a bulge to a two bolt rap anchor and belay. 

P3. Go up 4th class climbing over steps to a big pine tree on a large square ledge and belay.  This overlooks an 800 ft. drop.  There is a fine view from this pine tree ledge.

P4. From the ledge, continue 150 ft. up cracks and chimneys passing pins.   Move left, mantle onto the 3 ft. wide ledge.  Traverse left to a 2 pin and bolt anchor. 

P5.  Move left to the base of the Reigelhuth Chimney (not really a chimney).  Now for the crux:  Move up and clip a bolt then chimney crack climb up the wide flare at 5.6.  Clean dirt out of a crack above and jam up to the top of the flare.  This crack seems to collect everything from above.  Continue up fun fifth-class climbing to the top of Lunch Ledge, at a tree.

Follow the rappel route down.  There are slings on every rappel location, many of them are bolted.