Wandering Dike

Pitch 0:  Class 3-ish, Scramble up into the steep gully right of Dream of White Sheep. At first the gully is pretty full of brush--ascend on climber's right at first, avoiding the brush as best as possible. Higher up the thick brush begins to thin out and the terrain gets a little flatter. As you near the back of the gully the terrain gets steeper and brush gives way to ferns. Climb up a stack of loosely consolidated blocks and enter the cave at the back of the gully. Climb up the ladder onto a belay ledge on a huge chockstone--clip into belay anchors on your right as you exit the ladder.

Pitch 1:  5:8, 8 bolts 13m, Easy slab climbing up and left to a slightly overhanging dihedral, gives way to another easy slab angling right up to a comfortable if small belay ledge.

Pitch 2:  5.7, 7 bolts 13m, Step out right from the belay to get onto the heavily featured dike. Balance up the dike on mostly easy slab climbing.

Pitch 3:  5.9+, 13 bolts 22m, Continue up the dike with a little more delicate slab work and a variety of pinches, side-pulls, laybacks, etc. as the terrain gets a bit steeper as you climb. Finish on huge holds leading up onto a wide belay ledge.

Pitch 4:  5.7, 8 bolts 15m, Traverse up and left on a thin dike to reach the alligator skin. Choose your own adventure through steeper terrain with an abundance of huge holds, angling left again at the top to the pitch 4 anchors on a small ledge--shared with Dream of White Sheep pitch 3. Alternatively, skip the pitch 4 anchors by staying right and getting a few bonus moves in the alligator skin at the top--climbing directly towards the Pitch 5 anchors and running the two pitches together.

Pitch 5:  5.4, 8 bolts 14m, Traverse up and right on easy terrain with closely spaced bolts protecting both the leader and second on the traverse, to gain a comfortable belay ledge left of the base of the dike.

Pitch 6:  5.9, 8 bolts 12m, Delicate slab climbing up the very thin dike. Closely spaced bolts at the start help to protect the leader from hitting the belay ledge. Continue up to the headwall, as you approach the headwall the thin dike fades out into a sea of huge holds.

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Rappels: pitches 2-6 are equipped with rap anchors--assumption is you won't be rappelling from pitch 1

From pitch 2 anchors, with a 60m rope, rappel back onto the chockstone by dropping down the dihedral just (climber's) right of the pitch 1 route. With a 70m rope, optionally skip the chockstone and rappel directly to the floor of the gully.

From pitch 3, single-rope rappel to pitch 2 anchors, or two-rope rappel to directly into gully.

From pitch 4, single-rope rappel to pitch 3 anchors, or with two 70m ropes rappel directly into gully (with just a few meters to spare).

From pitch 5, rappel to pitch 3 anchors (skipping pitch 4 anchors which are badly out of line).

From pitch 6, rappel to pitch 5 and so on.

Standard approach for Dihedral Buttress. Look for small cairn marking the start of a faint climber's trail going up essentially below the lowest part of the buttress. The trail quickly becomes more pronounced as it doubles back and goes up the edge of a low angle slab to gain a ridge. Follow the trail up the ridge, high stepping up onto and over a block, then through an opening in the brush/small trees which leads you face-to-face with the buttress. At this point turn right for Howl at the Moon, Dream of White Sheep, Wandering Dike, or Creviceman.  Turning left would take you towards Welcome to Manning Crevice, Calisto, and the Cookie Jar Area.

All stainless 3/8 inch 5-piece bolts except for two bolts in the overhanging dihedral which are stainless 1/2 inch 5-piece bolts.
Pitches 2-6 are equiped with Tebylon rap anchors