Mafic Mistress

Approach pitch: ~45M

P1: Climb straight up the crack/corner to belay at a big block/ramp that leads up to the next pitch

(M5) ~35M

P2: Start by climbing up a slabby ramp to a corner. Follow the corner up and to the left until you finish, and a good belay just below the crux pitch.

(M4) ~35M

P3: Crux pitch. 

Climb up steep corner cracks with good gear. Belay at a stance (belay .3 - #1 Camelot).

(M7) ~30M

P4:  Follow the arete and crack systems till you top out to some easy snow ramp climbing to the belay (Sling block/tree). 

(M4) ~50M

P5: Easy ridge scrambling. Move up and left from the belay and around the “bunny ears” rock.  Then continue up and right until you follow an unprotected traverse once you get to a “not so great” belay area before P6. 

(M3) ~65M

The remaining pitches climb the ridge. We pitched them out, but competent parties might consider other methods or different belay locations. 

P6: Start by traveling up some tougher snow to then bring you to super fun ridge romping. Continue up the ridge until you find your pyramid-shaped rock that can be slung for a fantastic belay anchor. 

~60M

P7: Be sure to extend all your protection: rope drag is the biggest difficulty on this pitch as you are working the ridges. Overall, climbing this pitch was really fun ridge climbing.

~50M

P8: Fun and amazing ridge romping up to the summit. Protects well, but be aware of loose rock as it gets more prominent towards the top.

~50M 

Descent: walk clockwise down the back side with occasional scramble moves, descend via couloir. 

Mafic Mistress is a high-quality, technical mixed climb up Blue Crag. It follows a prominent crack system up the first four pitches, then transitions to beautiful ridge climbing to the summit.  The hardest pitches had the best protection, and I would dare say it even has excellent rock quality - especially considering nearby routes. There goes the neighborhood!

I would recommend this route to anyone looking for a challenging but relatively safe line, only a few hours from Mammoth. Do it on a big day, or approach and camp in the scenic Gentian Meadows beneath Blue Crag.

"Mafic" is a geologic term describing rocks that are high in magnesium and iron, giving Blue Crag its dark color and distinct rock qualities compared to nearby granite peaks.

The first ascent was completed in winter/mixed conditions.

Protection: Overall this climb protects really well, with the exception of pitch 4’s traverse section (the easiest pitch on the route). With the crack systems throughout most of the climb, you should have plenty of options for pro.

Double rack of cams from black totem - #3 Camelot, optional #4. Single rack of nuts and a few pitons.