Cotton Picker

This is a worthwhile two-pitch climb in the next north-facing drainage to the right (west) of Cotton Mouth.

P1. WI4, 70m. Climb easy ice to a steeper headwall leading to more low-angle ice, then anchor on small trees or ice when your rope runs out.

P1.5. Ramble up snow or easy ice to the major fork in the gully a couple hundred feet up. The next pitch is obvious in the slot to the right.

P2. WI3, 35m. Climb the featured flow to anchor on a tree to right in the gully above.

There is also a small pitch (30 feet) of WI2-3 in the left fork of the main gully for bonus mileage.

Rap off trees and/or v-threads to descend.

This steep dual gully system continues up for 2,000 feet, so keep an eye on avalanche hazard.

From the plowed Cataract Gulch trailhead, continue west up the Cottonwood Creek Road (CR 35) for 1.5 miles, just past the slabs of Cotton Mouth to the next obvious flow. Look for the path of least resistance to drop down, cross Cottonwood Creek, and hike on up to the climb.

Two 70m ropes and a standard ice rack.