Goulotte Lafaille

After leaving skis or other flotation directly below the route and just below the bergschrund, boot up to the upper right section of the bergschrund where it is easiest to cross. Most parties rope up here. Cross the bergschrund and traverse left and slightly down to the right side of the ice flow and a rock step. 

The first four pitches are mostly ice up to WI3 and short rock steps up to M4. The final two pitches are mostly snow. There are various fixed anchors throughout the gully on either side with usually one bolt and gear. You do not need to use every anchor with 60m ropes.

Rappel descent: rappel the fixed anchors on to the snow slope above the bergschrund. We found a slung rock above the bergschrund and below where we started the first pitch in order to make one final rappel past the bergschrund. 

On Monte Blanc du Tacul, below the Aiguilles du Diable. Left of Couloir du Diable on the left side of the cirque. 

6 screws, a single set of cams, twin 60m ropes.