The Great Yellow Brick Road
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
| Type: | Trad, 1200 ft (364 m), 7 pitches |
| GPS: | 34.6445, -86.55686 |
| FA: | Sam Whatley |
| Page Views: | 46 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Whatley on Feb 27, 2026 |
| Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
Description
Many thanks to Tim Goode, Eric Venable, Zach Gideons, and Ben Estes for helping make this come true and happen within only a few weeks!
This is certainly the longest Climb in Alabama though slightly contrived and totally wild, It is absolutely a blast, and I think it goes at approximately 5.10, though much of the climbing is easier than that for 75% of the route. Open to suggestions for those willing to try it. It may be one of the silliest routes ever, but it sure does make for one wild man/woman adventure. You can obviously lower off any anchor to the ground and other than protection for yourself and your belayer/follower, you can bail at any point with ease.
Suggest finding some dry stretches or being ok traversing 5.easy wet streaks after a rain as a few areas seep for a few days.
P1. Climb the A0 bolt ladder at the end of the main wall.
P2 clip the first bolt of the 5.10 out on a limb and then traverse out right pracing a few cams in the hand and finger sizes to another three bolts. Some other gear placements will abound with nuts and via slinging horns and chicken heads.
P3 climb slightly up off the belay past a jugs to a horizontal seam and couple inch wide ledge system. Slab through the bulges and grab the occasional jug till you reach a no hands rest ledge halfway to the next set of anchors. Contine at exactly the same horizontal hight passing through two sport lines. Clip the bolts as you choose. (5th bolt of both lines preferably, which are Ariel sewer and Vulgar and rude. Finish on a massive ledge with a small tree growing out of a crack at the base of the ledge after crossing just above the rusty pin of NC sport climbing.
P4 crux pitch. continue traversing out right and slightly downward to a seam. Use the seam for hands and find the occasional foot hold below it. Mostly smear feet and a hand traverse until you reach a rusty bolt. Continue to 5th or 6th bolt of that thing you do (5.10). Continue to 6th both of Mr. toads wild ride (5.11b). Continue to the 5th bolt of “the Ten” (5.10). Finish on the ten by Clipping the 6th and 7th bolts and head up to the anchors. You’ll finish just left of the finishing moves of orange crush. .
P5 downward traverse through a few gear placements across orange crush to the 6th bolt of Lucifer’s. Downclimb the bulge roof of outstanding at the 5th bolt. Continue Down to the 3rd bolt of Diamond maker. A few gear placements (may add one bolt) to a ledge that joins faith and clip the 2nd bolt of faith. Finish on Over to the MP1-2 belay station on a ledge.
P6. Traverse out to hollow man passing and clipping bolts as you desire on “FPM” and Cultural Diversity, then go up then grab the jug rail at the bottom of the buldge/roof clipping more bolts from the “Step Up” and Step up Right bolts.Continue to 7/8th bolt of cargo blasting 6/7th bolt of tiltawhirle, then continue high and around corner to anchors of tradmaster.
Celebrate your accomplishment you just did something 99% of the community probably never will! I would love to see someone do this traverse in the opposite direction as I think it would go both ways pretty easily!



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