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Return of the Gunfighter
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
Routes in Lower God's Area
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(Chimney/Gully) ? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bermuda Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Earth Tones T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Left Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Mist Opportunities T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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New Rag T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Old Rags to Riches T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Return of the Gunfighter T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Right Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Short 'n' Schweet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vanishing Act S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Wet Lichen Nightmare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 65 ft (20 m) |
| GPS: | 38.5515, -78.3106 |
| FA: | Will Alford, 2026 Equippers: Eddie Begoon, Howard Clark, Early 1990s |
| Page Views: | 198 total · 76/month |
| Shared By: | Will Alford on Jan 26, 2026 |
| Admins: | Shawn Heath, Aaron Parlier |
Description
This amazing route was one of the longest-standing open projects at Old Rag. The entire route packs a punch and stacks up multiple sections of hard climbing separated by small rests. Originally, Eddie Begoon and Howard Clark bolted it ground up on hooks to the horizontal, just above the 5th bolt. With a tough and insecure section above, the route stalled out there and remained unsent until now.
Begin on a good left-leaning rail and make difficult moves right off the ground (stick clip recommended). Continue up the steep face on thin and sustained cruxy edges, following the bolt line to reach the obvious horizontal. Place a few good finger-sized cams in the horizontal (last pro before the anchor) and traverse slightly right before heading straight up through an insecure and slightly run-out redpoint crux. Be aware, there is some potential for big air above the horizontal, but the fall is clean.
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