Perhaps this route follows the unfinished dreams of the mystery person who put up the Belly Button route (as 2 out of the 3 sets of anchors for this route were preexisting)? Or perhaps the Belly Button route was the "Route to Nowhere" because it ran into the quite difficult crux at the start of this route (approximately 5.11b)? We may never know! There's no moss on this route but the routes history is a bit of a Fuzz-y Time Collapse.
*Access this route by climbing either MuccLovin or the full Belly Button route to a decent belay ledge that's located a bit up & to the right of the large shallow cave. Time Collapse begins here at the 2 bolt belay (35 meters above the ground).
Pitch #1 (5.11b, 30m, 15 bolts): Climb straight up through thin & balancy moves that likely involve a mantle, crimps, tiny pockets, smear/stemming, and maybe a drop knee. Then move right to clip the 5th bolt. After those crux moves, bust a few more traversey pocketed moves & pull up onto the giant ledge- the only good rest on this pitch. The climbing moves out of the 5.11 realm after this but remains fairly sustained in the 5.10 range for the rest of the route. Great climbing with lots of pockets & some nice red patina in the upper portion. Anchors are at a big comfy belay ledge.
Pitch #2 (5.10b, 25m, 11 bolts): After clipping the first bolt & pulling the bulge, use the right arete for a bunch of side pulls. Then follow the bolt line up through pockety face climbing in more of that nice red patina. Anchors are near the top of the formation on the same ledge area as the chain anchors for Don't Call Me White.
Walk Off: Easy scramble up and left to the top and then traverse right (south) and a bit downwards to get off the formation. A bit of exposed scrambling and down climbing, but easy. Once off the rock, head left (north) to pass the big arch hole in the rock to meet up with the 4x4 road. Follow that road back down and around.
Rappel (70m rope required!):
*See the Hinkey Summit Overview photo for rap station location.
3/8" x 3.5" Fixe Powers 5-piece bolts with Fixe hangers. Anchors stations are 2 bolt anchors with rap rings.
Everything is stainless steel (except for the P2 anchors at the top of the formation, these are scheduled to be replaced with SS anchors in 2026).
Located up and to the right of the shallow cave. Access Time Collapse by climbing either MuccLovin or the full Belly Button route.
*See the Hinkey Summit Overview photo for topo map.