Blood in the Machine
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British PG13
| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| GPS: | 45.4049, -116.12373 |
| FA: | Carson Sloan |
| Page Views: | 148 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Carson Sloan on Dec 3, 2025 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
Description
Start with a funky boulder problem on vertical rock with directional holds. Move left into the crux at bolt 2, which ends with a mantle onto the slab. Protect in the short thin crack, then enjoy the almost 100' of sustained moderate slab that follows. This line merges with pitch 2 of Slab in the Sky at the top, and shares its memorable final runout to the anchor.
The appeal of this route is that it takes by far the cleanest line on the Dihedral Buttress' lower slab. For parties comfortable on 5.10 slab, this will make it the preferred start to both Slab in the Sky and Dream of White Sheep.
A 70m rope is required to get down, and only reaches if you aim 20' right of the base area, ideally just uphill of the large poison ivy bush.
Location
Follow the Dihedral Buttress approach trail, which starts 300' upriver from the route at the toe of the Hit the Road Jack Buttress. Once you are in line with the toe of the buttress, head uphill along a trail cut through the bushes to the base of the rock. Walk right along the base and around the corner (50') to a clearing where the face becomes vertical.



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