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Big Bolt Climb

5.10+, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 7 votes
FA: unknown
California > San Francisco B… > Marin/Northwest… > Mickey's Beach > Vent 5 > Juice Shop

Description

A short bouldery start opens to two bolts of rambly climbing, finishing with two more bolts of chossy lieback crack before mantling out to the top.

Note: If you're setting a TR, the rough edges that eat at the rope along the bolt line and over the lip make for poor rope hygiene. Extend the anchor over the lip with a quad or slings or something.

Location

Between "The Juice Shop" and "Kook Jams". Walk to the cave and look for the line of large, dark-colored hangers on mechanical bolts.

Protection

5 bolts to rams horns (separate anchor from Juice Shop)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Topo of "Big Bolt Climb"
[Hide Photo] Topo of "Big Bolt Climb"
Looking up at the route from the base of the climb. Caught in action: Connor Novak brushing the climb.
[Hide Photo] Looking up at the route from the base of the climb. Caught in action: Connor Novak brushing the climb.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Connor Novak
No longer SF
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] I didn't set the route, and typically don't share routes that I find that others have installed - reckon that's their prerogative.
However, this one is in the middle of a popular crag, and I reckon it could do with some consensus grading / a place to document things like:
"Top-roping this shreds your rope"
or:
"Wear a helmet cause it sheds like a Labrador in summer" Nov 7, 2025
Gabi Novak
No longer Tahoe
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] It is a bit chossy and could use more cleaning and traffic. It's hard to find holds when there is no chalk to show you them! Nov 7, 2025
Evan Wisheropp
[Hide Comment] I didn’t climb this route but I did stumble upon it. These expansion bolts are actually Titanium double wedge bolts made by Lappas. Currently the only titanium expansion bolts on the market. It gets a bit confusing as they look like stainless steel expansion bolts, which are no good on the coast. Jan 10, 2026
Connor Novak
No longer SF
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Whoa, I had no idea there were ANY titanium expansion bolts out there. How'd you figure out that these were titanium? Jan 12, 2026
ginger
[Hide Comment] hownot2.com/products/titani…

here’s a product link, i figured they were TI cuz they were a mm size bolt, not “.

and as there are other routes at the beach with these bolts. Jan 12, 2026