Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade IV
GPS: 38.57939, -107.70252
FA: Jonny Zaugg and Amy G.
Page Views: 247 total · 35/month
Shared By: Amy G on Oct 15, 2025
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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The Gully Suggest change

Approach (the frst crux):

Start at the Island Peaks trailhead on the North Rim.

Multi-stage gully descent (rappels & scrambling):

  1. First Gully:
    Descend to a large pine tree.

    • Option 1: set your first fixed line here.

    • Option 2: hike left (downhill on loose pine needles) for a safer anchor with less rockfall exposure.

  2. First rappel:

    • 60m full rope length to the next tier.

  3. Second anchor setup:
    Locate a solid crack on the left side.

    • Gear: 3 cams — 0.5, 0.75 ×2.

    • Rappel (~80 m): rope-shredding terrain. Use protection — we core-shot a line even with a rope protector.

    • Two 60m ropes may be better down this long stretch.

  4. Final gully:
    Go down past a dead tree with thick branches, and enter a left-hand gully system.

    • Downclimb low 5th Class terrain trending down and then right to a cluster of chock stone boulders.

  5. Last rappel:

    • descend a 60m fixed line down to the saddle below the peak.

From the saddle, climb up and over and down a short crumbly ridge to reach the start of pitch 1.

The Route Suggest change

Pitch 1 – 5.5, 50m.

Follow a Z-shaped catwalk starting from a licheny terrace.

  • Turn right along a tree-lined ledge, then cut left up a low-5th Class arête.

  • Belay from a large tree.

    Expect rope drag no matter how you sling — it’s part of the fun.

Pitch 2 – 5.7 R, 40m.

This is the crux pitch.

  • Steep, awkward movement through vegetation and loose blocks.

  • The gear is solid but strenuous to place — you'll be climbing through bushes and suspect flakes.

  • Belay from one of several solid trees beneath the upper slabs.

Pitch 3 – 4th to low 5th Class, 80 m.

Climb easy slabs, overgrown with scrub oak and lichen.

  • Sparse protection.

  • Trend up and right toward a false summit block.

Pitch 4 – 5.4, 20m.

From the false summit, make a short rappel into a notch. Then climb a mellow chimney to reach the true summit of Peak 7628.

⛓ Descent

Reverse the entire route. From the summit:

  1. downclimb easy slabs to a small pine on the lower middle-right.

  2. do a 60m rappel to another ledge.

  3. Do a final 70m rappel from another pine that reaches the base.

The final crux where the real whining begins ~700 feet of jugging on your fixed lines to the top - this in part inspired the route's name: Wine.

Protection Suggest change

Strong friends that don't whine, then wine. Bring both.

A singles rack to a 3 and a 70m rope.

Photos

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