'Wine'~ Peak 7628 — Grizzly Ridge
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British R
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade IV |
| GPS: | 38.57939, -107.70252 |
| FA: | Jonny Zaugg and Amy G. |
| Page Views: | 247 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Amy G on Oct 15, 2025 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
The Gully
Approach (the frst crux):
Start at the Island Peaks trailhead on the North Rim.
Multi-stage gully descent (rappels & scrambling):
First Gully:
Descend to a large pine tree.Option 1: set your first fixed line here.
Option 2: hike left (downhill on loose pine needles) for a safer anchor with less rockfall exposure.
First rappel:
60m full rope length to the next tier.
Second anchor setup:
Locate a solid crack on the left side.Gear: 3 cams — 0.5, 0.75 ×2.
Rappel (~80 m): rope-shredding terrain. Use protection — we core-shot a line even with a rope protector.
Two 60m ropes may be better down this long stretch.
Final gully:
Go down past a dead tree with thick branches, and enter a left-hand gully system.Downclimb low 5th Class terrain trending down and then right to a cluster of chock stone boulders.
Last rappel:
descend a 60m fixed line down to the saddle below the peak.
From the saddle, climb up and over and down a short crumbly ridge to reach the start of pitch 1.
The Route
Pitch 1 – 5.5, 50m.
Follow a Z-shaped catwalk starting from a licheny terrace.
Turn right along a tree-lined ledge, then cut left up a low-5th Class arête.
Belay from a large tree.
Expect rope drag no matter how you sling — it’s part of the fun.
Pitch 2 – 5.7 R, 40m.
This is the crux pitch.
Steep, awkward movement through vegetation and loose blocks.
The gear is solid but strenuous to place — you'll be climbing through bushes and suspect flakes.
Belay from one of several solid trees beneath the upper slabs.
Pitch 3 – 4th to low 5th Class, 80 m.
Climb easy slabs, overgrown with scrub oak and lichen.
Sparse protection.
Trend up and right toward a false summit block.
Pitch 4 – 5.4, 20m.
From the false summit, make a short rappel into a notch. Then climb a mellow chimney to reach the true summit of Peak 7628.
⛓ Descent
Reverse the entire route. From the summit:
downclimb easy slabs to a small pine on the lower middle-right.
do a 60m rappel to another ledge.
Do a final 70m rappel from another pine that reaches the base.
The final crux where the real whining begins ~700 feet of jugging on your fixed lines to the top - this in part inspired the route's name: Wine.



0 Comments