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| Type: | Trad, Snow, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 39.04072, 68.94009 |
| FA: | Shukurov, Dreitser, Zhlutko, Nosov, Perkovsky -1961 |
| Page Views: | 18 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Daniel Birdwell on Sep 29, 2025 |
| Admins: | Daniel Birdwell |
Description
From the saddle, the summit appears like an obvious “tooth” on the right.
Follow the broad, gently undulating ridge toward the base of the tooth. Rock is generally easy, with a few short sections requiring belay.
Generally follow the ridge towards the base of the tooth feature, though at one point you will go down and right of the ridge top and then follow a slab back to the ridge.
Aim for a gravely slope which leades to the top of the tooth feature.
Traverse left across slabs to reach the summit.
Location
From the village of Ziddy, follow the river upstream for about 2 hours to a fork. Take the right-hand branch, leading into the cirque of the Sanginavishta ridge (~1 hour). Turn right onto one of the ridges that lead to a small snow plateau beneath the eastern slopes of the peak. Cross the snowfield and climb easy rock to a saddle right of the summit. The elevation gain from the typical camp in the valley floor is significant- roughly 1500m of gain.
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