The Hellfire Club

Fully bolted, roughly 100m west of the winter mixed climb ‘Suffer Machine’. Consistent 5.10+ to 5.11- climbing with a few 5.11 cruxes.

2 'approach' pitches on crappy rock, with 7 good pitches of climbing.

P1: 5.05             20m     3 bolts
narrow rock spur up short vertical face follow slab. 

P2: 5.05             30m     5 bolts
Weaving through loose rock and dirt. Advise linking with P1 with use of runners.

P3: 5.11a          25m     9 bolts
Rock dramatically improves mid pitch, follow bolts to base of corner. 

P4: 5.11c           20m    9 bolts
Enter the corner and climb to the top. Bolt out left leads to belay station. 

P5: 5.11b          30m     12 bolts
Climb through a distinct crux in a secondary corner. Easier ground weaves through geology change. 

P6: 5.10c          35m     12 bolts
Follow bolts. Nothing harder than 5.10

P7: 5.11a          25m     7 bolts
Crux move at chain draw, continue up the corner above and cut left onto face where bolts run out 

P8: 5.11b          15m     6 bolts
Thin crack to undercling traverse 

P9: 5.11a          25m     8 bolts
Variable rock. Climb through a roof to shallow belay cave. 

Descent:
Rap the route

Follow hiking trail till you reach a small yellow hiking sign is visible (the main trail turns left 90 degrees and continues uphill) and the valley opens up. At this point leave the designated trail and descend through the meadow/ bolder field aiming for a rock cairn at the edge of the trees. Cut through the thin cluster of trees and ascend the rocky slope up diagonally to the right. The easiest way up the hillside is to find the drainage that runs from ‘Suffer Machine’ and follow uphill.

A small platform has been stomped out at the base of the wall just left of the gully where the route begins. Hang bags and gear up here. Climb starts just to the right.

12 draws + 2-4 expendables to the approach pitches