Queen of Spades
5.11 A2+,
Trad, Aid, Alpine, 255 ft (77 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
FA: G. Rickenbacker. FFA P1-2: Rickenbacker, N. Koch
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Lone Peak Cirque
> Hyperform Wall
Description
"the wolf came in
I got my cards
we sat down for a game
I cut my deck to the Queen of Spades
but the cards were all the same"
-JG
Queen of Spades climbs the slender corner between the eye-catching books of Maidenform and Agent Orange and continues up the striking beak seam to the rim. Regarding the corner, I thought it more of a deck than a book, with three micro roofs, each one just larger than a playing card. Each card deals a stiffer hand, leading with 8's. You're playing Jacks in the crux and will enjoy a fixed pin. There is good gear throughout. Just watch each card you play... and play it slow
[ P1 ] Step left of Agent O's P1 corner. Climb discontinuous cracks and slab with two large chicken heads. 5.8, 19 m.
[ P2 ] Flared cracks lead to technical stemming crux. Gear gets better and rock gets cleaner as the climbing gets harder. At the top of the corner, traverse left along a sloper ledge to gain the Maidenform corner. Belay at 8inch x 5ft ledge with black totem through .75 size cams. 5.11, 32 m.
Recommend rappelling from the anchor atop Jolly Green Giant (my 70m rope just barely gets me down), or finish up Maidenform.
[ P3 ] If The Queen calls for you, I wish you abundant hearts. You won't shoot the moon. Bring a handful of #3 beaks, minimum 1x #2 and #1. A few LA's, mostly thick /short. Extras in black totem size, otherwise standard affair. A2+ expando, 37m.
Protection
Cams:
2x .1/.2 offset OR stoppers (straight sided work well)
1x .1, .2
2x black totem - #3
extra .4 or .5 for the belay atop p2 is nice
Location
Between Maidenform and Agent Orange. Hyperform Wall.