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Queen of Spades
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British A2+
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Hyperform Wall
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Book Of Rhymes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Green Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hyperform T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jibrones Highway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jolly Green Giant T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Just Barely T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Megaform T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Queen of Spades T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2+ |
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Shadow of Death T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Vandals Took the Handle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Walk The Plank T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, Alpine, 255 ft (77 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.527, -111.757 |
| FA: | G. Rickenbacker. FFA P1-2: Rickenbacker, N. Koch |
| Page Views: | 94 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | grager meister on Aug 17, 2025 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Description
"the wolf came in
I got my cards
we sat down for a game
I cut my deck to the Queen of Spades
but the cards were all the same"
-JG
Queen of Spades climbs the slender corner between the eye-catching books of Maidenform and Agent Orange and continues up the striking beak seam to the rim. Regarding the corner, I thought it more of a deck than a book, with three micro roofs, each one just larger than a playing card. Each card deals a stiffer hand, leading with 8's. You're playing Jacks in the crux and will enjoy a fixed pin. There is good gear throughout. Just watch each card you play... and play it slow
[ P1 ] Step left of Agent O's P1 corner. Climb discontinuous cracks and slab with two large chicken heads. 5.8, 19 m.
[ P2 ] Flared cracks lead to technical stemming crux. Gear gets better and rock gets cleaner as the climbing gets harder. At the top of the corner, traverse left along a sloper ledge to gain the Maidenform corner. Belay at 8inch x 5ft ledge with black totem through .75 size cams. 5.11, 32 m.
Recommend rappelling from the anchor atop Jolly Green Giant (my 70m rope just barely gets me down), or finish up Maidenform.
[ P3 ] If The Queen calls for you, I wish you abundant hearts. You won't shoot the moon. Bring a handful of #3 beaks, minimum 1x #2 and #1. A few LA's, mostly thick /short. Extras in black totem size, otherwise standard affair. A2+ expando, 37m.
I got my cards
we sat down for a game
I cut my deck to the Queen of Spades
but the cards were all the same"
-JG
Queen of Spades climbs the slender corner between the eye-catching books of Maidenform and Agent Orange and continues up the striking beak seam to the rim. Regarding the corner, I thought it more of a deck than a book, with three micro roofs, each one just larger than a playing card. Each card deals a stiffer hand, leading with 8's. You're playing Jacks in the crux and will enjoy a fixed pin. There is good gear throughout. Just watch each card you play... and play it slow
[ P1 ] Step left of Agent O's P1 corner. Climb discontinuous cracks and slab with two large chicken heads. 5.8, 19 m.
[ P2 ] Flared cracks lead to technical stemming crux. Gear gets better and rock gets cleaner as the climbing gets harder. At the top of the corner, traverse left along a sloper ledge to gain the Maidenform corner. Belay at 8inch x 5ft ledge with black totem through .75 size cams. 5.11, 32 m.
Recommend rappelling from the anchor atop Jolly Green Giant (my 70m rope just barely gets me down), or finish up Maidenform.
[ P3 ] If The Queen calls for you, I wish you abundant hearts. You won't shoot the moon. Bring a handful of #3 beaks, minimum 1x #2 and #1. A few LA's, mostly thick /short. Extras in black totem size, otherwise standard affair. A2+ expando, 37m.
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