Alexandra's Arete

This is a fantastic arete climb with short cruxes and long section of 5.fun arete climbing with ample mostly hand sized crack systems.  the start is a bit flaky, but the climbing quality and rock quality improve with height.

Pitch 1, 5.10, 210ft:  from just right and slightly uphill of the toe of the arete, climb some flared cracks to a #4 sized block creating a small roof, pull over this with some bear hugging to gain easier climbing along the arete. trend slightly right and belay on large ledges halfway between the arete on the left, and the major dihedral on the right.

Pitch 2, 5.10c, 210ft: Climb the block corner and roof up to heavily featured lower angle terrain, aiming for the dead vertical hand sized splitter above.  gain the splitter and chimney thru the crux where the crack pinches down for a brief section.  follow the crack up to a ramp and around to the left and belay on a nice ledge on the left side of  the arete.

Pitch 3, 11b, 130ft.  Step right off the belay and climb up to the right side of the giant elephants ear flake feature.  boulder thru the flake with good choices in feet and some finger locks and pull up into an alcove, follow a crack on the left side of the alcove over a small roof and into easier face climbing along the arete to an other large ledge.

Pitch 4,5,6, 5.9 ~400ft  Climb up the arete using both face sections, and multiple discontinuous crack systems on the right side of the arete.  multiple ledges allow for comfy belays when needed.  Eventually the crack systems lead to a big ruble strewn ledge on the left side of the arete with a beautiful finger crack running up a vertical panel of rock on the left side of the arete, belay at the base of this finger crack.

Pitch 7, 10+, 200ft  Climb the finger crack off the belay and regain the arete, pull thru a roof with a tough move in an off fingers crack and continue up the blocky arete.  Either stop on one of many small ledges and build an intermediate belay, or with good rope management and lots of alpine draws used, continue up to the final blocky headwalls and belay on the sloped ledge at the summit.

DESCENT.

If coming from Pete's Col:  Head east along the summit ridge, and scramble up the small peak after the sandy saddle.  head down class 3/4 on the opposite side of the small peak and work down talus all the way back to the lakes below cartridge pass.  pass the higher lake on its north side, and the lower lake on its south side to pick up the trail on the east side of the lower lake.

If coming from Marion Lakes:  head west toward Marion peak proper (the brown rock peak), and go down north on talus from the saddle between the granite rock and the brown rock toward Marion lake.

From the valley below the cliff line, head up the lowest angle talus a bit west of the arete to get around the small cliff bands at eh base, once even with the main arete head sideways towards to toe of the arete 

double .2 to 2, single 3 and 4 set of nuts and plenty of alpine draws.