A visually beautiful, but dirty, route that climbs rippling waves of Coconino sandstone up a large arete. The climbing is quite serious, with a fall from nearly anywhere on the route bound to rip gear and break bones. The rock is consistently sandy and dirty yet it yields surprisingly enjoyable climbing on horizontal runnels, pinches, and sloping features. If you can get past the lichen and mounting anxiety, this route provides a unique adventure. The belay ledges are comfortable, picturesque, and easy to bail from on climbers left if one should decide to retreat. This is not a casual outing and anyone setting out to climb it should plan on it taking longer than expected. It is best to climb with a wire brush for cleaning.

Pitch 1 (5.6 R): Climb approx. 60’ up especially dirty rock to a grassy ledge then up to the left to a semi-hanging belay at a bolt and two-lobed cam placement (#.5 Camalot).

Pitch 2 (5.8+ R): Move right from the belay and follow the flared crack directly up through the band of soft orange colored rock. Approx. 40’ of climbing on fragile rock, with terrible protection, above an ankle breaking ledge. The climbing becomes easier and safer when you reach the overhanging patina covered horizontal flakes above the orange band. Belay on a comfortable ledge from a bolt and cam (#2 Camalot) placed around the corner to climber’s right.

Pitch 3 (5.7 R): Move right around the corner from the ledge and climb a long meandering pitch up the sea of runnels and sloping edges. Make sure to use lots of slings, or double ropes, to cut down on rope drag. Belay atop the airy birdsnest ledge at one bolt. Extra long (20’) slings are helpful to reduce drag during belay. 

Pitch 4 (5.6 R): Climb up to the horizontal edge and traverse right to the vertical crack and protection. The traverse is about 30’ with no protection above a pendulum fall into a corner. Climb up to a ledge then surmount one final deteriorating sandy step of rock to the wide flat summit. Belay at a pine tree. Use extra long slings to reduce drag during belay. 

Around a hundred yards upstream from the main hikers trail on the right side of the creek. Look for a tall pine standing behind the foot of the arete.

A single set of cams from #.5 to #3, doubles of #1-2 helpful. A few microcams in the 1” and smaller range optional. A set of tricam nuts (pink through brown). A set of Ballnutz (#1-3). A set of standard nuts and micro/offset nuts. At least 10 slings/mountain-draws to help cut down on rope drag. The tricam nuts and ballnutz are especially important on this route and provide hope for protection where nothing else will.