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Deus E O Diabo Na Terra Do Sol

5.11b, Sport, 145 ft (44 m),  Avg: 4 from 3 votes
FA: Pastorini, Benfica, Veiga, Hamade, Cisotto, Wilson - 2016
International > S America > Brazil > Minas Gerais > Serra do Cipó > Grupo 3 > Cangaço

Description

God and the Devil in the Land of the Sun. Come get some. This route is a fantastic journey with some of the best views in Grupo 3…and although you can hike up to the same point going to Thundercats there’s something better about climbing 44 meters of rock to reach it. Can be done as one long pitch, or as a multi. It has a midpoint anchor after the first 9 bolts. The most beautiful climbing is in the middle when navigating the water runnels with some stemming, pinching, and creative beta all-together. Save something for the pop you need to get to anchors, it’s not over till it’s over. 

Location

Walk into the heart of Cangaço where the tallest routes live and this is the left-most at the very back of this depression. Starts just left of a tree at the base. 

Protection

9 bolts to the first anchors. 21 bolts all together, plus anchors. An 80 meter will almost get you to the ground, you can have your climber grab the tree and let the rope run through your device. Alternatively just walk off the top if you have a shorter rope. It’s about a 5 min walk back down. 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Another view more downward to the ground below. You can see how dramatic the water runnels are on the routes to the right.
[Hide Photo] Another view more downward to the ground below. You can see how dramatic the water runnels are on the routes to the right.
The 80 meter ALLLLMOST got us down.
[Hide Photo] The 80 meter ALLLLMOST got us down.
The view you earn getting 44 meters up.
[Hide Photo] The view you earn getting 44 meters up.
Le Start
[Hide Photo] Le Start